Name all possible needed specialty tools....
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
...that would/will be needed for an L98 cam/head/intake swap. 
I don't mean your normal every day screwdrivers, sockets, ratchets etc. Wierd stuff that the "normal" person might not have. I just want to go through the barn and make sure we have all the tools first.
<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>Balancer Puller/Installer<LI>Cam Install Tool (Long Bolt)<LI>Any special fuel line tools?<LI>Distributor Wrench<LI>TDC Locator maybe?
</UL>
Go ahead and list it. Anything we don't have, I'm going to order tomorrow.
I don't mean your normal every day screwdrivers, sockets, ratchets etc. Wierd stuff that the "normal" person might not have. I just want to go through the barn and make sure we have all the tools first.
<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>Balancer Puller/Installer<LI>Cam Install Tool (Long Bolt)<LI>Any special fuel line tools?<LI>Distributor Wrench<LI>TDC Locator maybe?
</UL>
Go ahead and list it. Anything we don't have, I'm going to order tomorrow.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Los Alamos NM
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:[/color]<HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Any special fuel line tools?[/color][/QUOTE]
Scorp,
Not sure about your L98, but on my LT1, I needed a cheap set of "quick disconnect" removal tools for the fuel lines. The whole set of plastic tools was just a few bucks at Autozone.
Scorp,
Not sure about your L98, but on my LT1, I needed a cheap set of "quick disconnect" removal tools for the fuel lines. The whole set of plastic tools was just a few bucks at Autozone.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,786
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Don't forget the obvious:
- Clean shop towels and a roll of Bounty paper towels to stuff into the intake ports and lifter valley so you can scrape the mating surfaces clean. Don't forget to remove them, too!
- You'll also need some way to determine TDC at the piston (when you use the degree wheel). I fashioned a cheap piston stop by drilling out a spark plug and tapping the inside for a bolt. Worked great!
- Having a crank snout socket that allows you to turn the motor easy with a 1/2" drive rachet is also a great tool. I've only used mine once, but it was the best $20 I spent for my cam swap (of several years ago - different car).
- Clean shop towels and a roll of Bounty paper towels to stuff into the intake ports and lifter valley so you can scrape the mating surfaces clean. Don't forget to remove them, too!
- You'll also need some way to determine TDC at the piston (when you use the degree wheel). I fashioned a cheap piston stop by drilling out a spark plug and tapping the inside for a bolt. Worked great!
- Having a crank snout socket that allows you to turn the motor easy with a 1/2" drive rachet is also a great tool. I've only used mine once, but it was the best $20 I spent for my cam swap (of several years ago - different car).
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 0
From: Big D Tx
Cruise-In II Veteran
Originally Posted by scorp508:
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[B
that the "normal" person might not have
[/B][/color]
[/B][/color]
: : ] j/k, on a serious note, it looks pretty much like youve listed everything that first came to my mind. you might want a cam degree card (those take the guess work out of degree your cam) but its not 100% needed. also, do you have new lifters yet? if i think of anything else ill post it.[This message has been edited by 88L98 (edited 07-31-2001).]
[This message has been edited by 88L98 (edited 07-31-2001).]
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 0
From: Big D Tx
Cruise-In II Veteran
oh yeah, forget about the distributor wrench, those things suck. they wind up rounding off your hold down bolt. get a crow's foot wrench set. its a 9/16 wrench that stops right after the head and has a place to insert a ratchet or extention. it makes it way easier to remove the hold down bolt. they are at autozone for like 9.99 for a set of 3/8 - 7/8.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
You can even use a screwdriver blade to detect the pistion at TDC.
Of course a degree wheel and pointer.
Verniers to check for coil bind with the cam installed, unless you did the math on the bench.
Light assembly lube for the cam button, pushrod tips, rocher pockets and valve stem tips.
Sealant for the intake manifold and water pump bolts. And Blk RTV for the rear intake manifold seal. A few cans of carb cleaner to tidy up in there (and please paint those Brn valve covers). Some Liquid Paper to put those two important marks on the dist as you remove it.
Rubber nipples (from Auto Zone) to cover the fuel rail and supply line tips.
Some Blk wire ties to replace the ones you'll snip to get cabling out of your way.
Some Dremel cutters and sanding disks in case you decide to do some exhaust matching while you have those towels stuffed in the exhaust ports.
That crank snout socket sounds like a terrific tool! Wish I had know about it two weeks ago, but my arms and knuckles will heal eventually.
Don't foreget Mr. Torque Wrench.
Of course a degree wheel and pointer.
Verniers to check for coil bind with the cam installed, unless you did the math on the bench.
Light assembly lube for the cam button, pushrod tips, rocher pockets and valve stem tips.
Sealant for the intake manifold and water pump bolts. And Blk RTV for the rear intake manifold seal. A few cans of carb cleaner to tidy up in there (and please paint those Brn valve covers). Some Liquid Paper to put those two important marks on the dist as you remove it.
Rubber nipples (from Auto Zone) to cover the fuel rail and supply line tips.
Some Blk wire ties to replace the ones you'll snip to get cabling out of your way.
Some Dremel cutters and sanding disks in case you decide to do some exhaust matching while you have those towels stuffed in the exhaust ports.
That crank snout socket sounds like a terrific tool! Wish I had know about it two weeks ago, but my arms and knuckles will heal eventually.
Don't foreget Mr. Torque Wrench.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 12,594
Likes: 237
From: Bartlett Illinois
Bottle opener for all the guys helping you lighten the refrigerator
Seriously,
What about a Gear puller, I am assuming you are installing a new timing chain too.. you need to get the old one off first
Seriously,
What about a Gear puller, I am assuming you are installing a new timing chain too.. you need to get the old one off first
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 488
Likes: 28
From: Peabody MA
You'll need a tap set to fix one of those intake bolt holes on those heads. Last time I installed the intake one of the bolts started wrong.
A thread chaser for the head bolts. It's always good to clean the holes.
I'm not sure if that cam needs to be degreed. If it does you'll need some offset dowel bushings.
That's all I can think of.
-Mike
A thread chaser for the head bolts. It's always good to clean the holes.
I'm not sure if that cam needs to be degreed. If it does you'll need some offset dowel bushings.
That's all I can think of.
-Mike
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Originally Posted by Mike in Boston:
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[B
You'll need a tap set to fix one of those intake bolt holes on those heads. Last time I installed the intake one of the bolts started wrong.
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[/B][/color]
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:[/color]<HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
A thread chaser for the head bolts. It's always good to clean the holes.
[/color][/QUOTE]
Ok will do.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote][/color]<HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
I'm not sure if that cam needs to be degreed. If it does you'll need some offset dowel bushings.
[/color][/QUOTE]
From what I've read, the 219/219 likes to be installed straight up.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 681
Likes: 2
From: Newton (Wichita Area) Kansas
I agree about the distributor wrenches--I've had nothing but bad luck with those things. With carb'd small block Chevys I always use a header bolt in place of the normal distributor hold down bolt. Header bolts have smaller 7/16" heads so the wrench is a lot smaller. Perhaps there is just too much junk in the way to even get your hand back there with a little wrench. It wouldn't surprise me.
What do you racers use?
What do you racers use?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 7
some bandaids for your knuckles....by day two of the project your hands should be nice and chewed up--
i pulled my rear end a couple of weekends ago and the people at work asked me what the hell i had done to my hands...
i pulled my rear end a couple of weekends ago and the people at work asked me what the hell i had done to my hands...
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 4,691
Likes: 1
From: Framingham MA
Originally Posted by scorp508
Any special fuel line tools?[/color]
You will need something for the 2 back fuel rail crossover's torx bolt. I use a small torx socket and small locking wrench. A set of L shaped torx would work but I haven't found a pair yet.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 1
From: Norcross GA
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: cambridge UK Cambs
what about a decent DTI , monkey and mag block for dialing in the cam ? some engineers blue to check the valve to rocker geometry and maybe some Prussian blue and a good scribe for port matching .
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
As far as the heads go, they will be fully assembled and ready to drop onto the car. I have aset of new pushrods, but will be checking the length (i think) to see if I should order a custom set and install those after these. Not too hard to yank the valve covers and do that.
I have aset of new pushrods, but will be checking the length (i think) to see if I should order a custom set and install those after these. Not too hard to yank the valve covers and do that.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
Hey Scorp, a lot of the tools you'll need you can rent for free from you local auto parts store (Check Autozone or similar), you'll need a pre-oiler before you fire up the engine (pre-oiler fits were distributer goes and pressurizes the engine oil before first start).