I have a long story about how my vette's been @ the mechanic for over 2 weeks now, but I'm going to skip it in the hopes that a concise description will offer consise and complete response(s):



My stock setup was replaced with a Spec Clutch kit that included clutch disc, flywheel, and pressure plate just over a year ago. Well, it failed again- and I thought I'd go back to the stock setup. I replaced the whole enchalada myself including an original dual mass flywheel (all parts were from a 1990 with 30k miles). Well, this was my first attempt at a clutch/trans replacement, and after about 3 days, the fork apparently somehow twisted off the throwout bearing, and now I'm back where I started. Onto plan C: Since I'm not made of money, I had Spec clutch replace their single mass steel flywheel and components under warranty, and currently the new Spec components are installed on the car. The final holdup is that the mechanic is now telling me that he's never done this type of swap and he wants to do it right- he can't figure how to get the bellhousing installed (the bellhousing has the fork that engages the throwout bearing attached to it).



I can't really describe what the problem is beyond that because I don't totally understand it myself. This is why I took it in to a mechanic in the first place. But if someone familiar would please describe exactly how to complete this installation, I would just LOVE to be able to drive myself places again! Eternal thanks for any help, tips, or suggestions!!

-kevin

*Also please respond if you have had reliable performance after replacing your GM clutch setup with a single mass flywheel (especially using a Spec)

 

What year you got? I don't quite understand the confusion on installing the bellhousing. I have not done one for a very long time but it is pretty basic. This particular release bearing fork sort of snaps onto the ball stud that holds it in position, is that the problem? I am confused here!

 

The key for a zf bellhousing is to remove the pivot locking plug/screw & then loosen the pivot, if I remember right from a few weeks ago that means screwing it further into the bell housing. This gives it more room to pivot towards the clutch & you can then get it linked up w/ the throw out bearing. The bearing is attached to the pressure plate w/ a wire clip & is NOT supposed to come off.

Then you can finish pushing the bell housing onto the alignment pins & start the bolts. After you get them started you can then tighten the pivit back out where it belongs. There is a torque spec. for it & also the locking "plug" that goes into it afterwards.

Do yourself a favor & buy a factory (Helms) service manual. Even if you have the work done, the shop will be able to get it right for you. Plus you will learn a ton of **** about your car.

And yes, I have a spec SM alum. that has about 3K miles on it w/ zero problems.

 

A manual, even a hayne's will help alot.
Some things that come to mind are:
Make sure SPEC sent you the correct size TO bearing before you start the job.
Consider getting new PP bolts. (not necesseray, but I am **** and got them. A GM dealer only part)
If it's a 89 -91, keep an eye on the distributor vs. firewall clearance when the "C" beam is loosened/removed.
(92 on don't have distributors)
Consider supporting the engine(when the tranny body gets seperated from the BH) by something other than the oil pan. I'm just **** about crushing it's gasket.
Have a tranny tailhousing plug ready when the driveline gets removed. The tranny fluid will run out immediately and make a nice mess. The 36mm socket that is used for the rear wheel hub bearing nut wrapped in a plastic bag works for me.
Remove the tranny body first, then the BH. Turning it CCW to where the fork is at the 7 o'clock position should do the trick.
Inspect the pilot bushing since you're in there.
The FW is bolted on to the crank, then observe which side of the clutch disc goes toward the FW and which side goes to the PP. Sandwhich it in under the PP and have the aligning tool in and centered. Torque down the PP. You will notice the PP "flattening" toward you. This brings the TO bearing towards the fork.
Clock the BH at 7, and slide the fork over the TO bearing so it is behind 2 of the 4 corners, turn BH to 9 o'clock. TO should have one corner at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Once the BH is mounted to the block's pins, the fork should look like it holds the TOB at 12 and 6 o'clock.
Push the clutch pedal in and out when stabbing the tranny back into the pilot bushing(slave cyl mounted).

What exactly "failed" with the set-up?
I used a SPEC III carbon fiber. It held good on slicks, track prep, and high RPM dumps....but it wore out within 9 months. Poor street manners. The McLeod I have now has been better.
SPEC doesn't have the best rep here in C4 tech.