LT1 Performance Mods?????
1. lt4 hot cam kit
2. port and polish the stock heads
3. fuel pressure regulator
4. custom performance chip
5. exhaust cutouts
how does this sound so far???if not what do u think i should do instead of what. and what else would be a good performance modd
Last edited by bobhcky16; Oct 13, 2004 at 08:32 PM.
1. that'd be cool
2. i dont think that you bore and stroke heads, lol you can port and polish them tho. new valve train too.
3. heard it dont help much.
4. heard it dont help much at all.
5. i have these and it definately breathes better. headers are nice too. the fun factor out weights the performance improvements tho.
beware of doin mods that you havent researched. some require more in depth modifications than others. stuff like the exhaust is simple yet expensive. have fun!


1. that'd be cool
2. i dont think that you bore and stroke heads, lol you can port and polish them tho. new valve train too.
3. heard it dont help much.
4. heard it dont help much at all.
5. i have these and it definately breathes better. headers are nice too. the fun factor out weights the performance improvements tho.
beware of doin mods that you havent researched. some require more in depth modifications than others. stuff like the exhaust is simple yet expensive. have fun!
1. good mod
2. even better mod.
3. not really needed
4. must have a custom chip with the heads and cam
5.noise does not = power / you would get a lot more out of a set of LT headers and aftermarket exhaust.
On the note -- Go for it!!!
1. a cam upgrades helps hp a good bit. tuning is a must tho. so you'll need a new burnt program thingy.
2. you can bore and stroke a block. this all together changes your engine and would require different internal parts that cost$$$ but you can make some sick power if matched up correctly.
3. same thing, no big help. not needed. waste of $$
4. this goes with the cam. if your car is stock it wont help unless your changing fan temps or speedo/ gear calibrations.
5. i know noise dont equal power, but it is loads of fun to sit at a light, have a loud stang come besides you and throw the pipe at you. then you hit a button, and romp on it. his eyes will pop out and he'll putt off scared. they do help a little. friend of mine had his honda with one cutout on it and it gave 10 whp. that's a fact. on a v tec 4 banger. so it cant hurt. but yea lt headers and 3" pipes make a big difference.
i got my cutouts from QTP. i've had two sets and consider these the best in quality. you have to fabricate a Y pipe into the exhaust somewhere and simply bolt these plates onto the end of that pipe. be careful where you mount em. gotta clear the ground and cant aim at no lines or wires or anything that'll burn.
so have some fun with the car. make it what you want. and keep these pointers in mind.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Thanks,
Greg


1-3 go for it, but when it comes to the "chip", I didn't catch what year(maybe I missed it), but '94 and up you have to reprogram the PCM, if '92 or 93 you can do a chip. I don't know anyone local that does chips, but for tuning the PCM, you got the Vette Doctors in Long Island and Cartek in Garwood.
You don't want to mail order tuning, do it locally.


You didn't mention what year or make the car is, but it has been stated on here several times that gears should be the first mod addressed. The f-body guys swear to a 50hp increase on the butt dyno (it feels as though you gave it a 50hp increase) and i assume it is this way for the Corvette crowd. (this is putting 4:10's behind the 6 speed.) This is the first mod I'm doing on my 96 M6 over the winter.I'm also doing the LT4 hot cam as well, but you need the long tube headers and a custom program to gain any real benefit from it. The exhaust cut out is fun to play with, but IMHO you are better spending the $$$ elsewhere.
an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (AFPR) is a good mod in my opinion. It allows you to 'tune' your motor to a degree. Once you add the cam, especially if you go forced induction or nitrous, I think it is a must.
I'd also go with the free mods too. There is much debate over whether these will help you or not, but they are free and no one said it hurts so I'd go for it. Here they are.
-cut air lid (add K&N for $50)
-throttle body bypass
- hollow the MAF (if applicable) Personally I'd buy a spare on Ebay and hollow that one. Then you still have the stock one should anything happen to go wrong.
All of the above can be done free if you don't add the additional parts I listed off to the side. I'd add the 160 stat and fan switch to the list as well. Good luck and happy racing!!!
Thanks,
Greg
Greg took the time to walk me through my options and has consistantly given me good advice throughout my engine project. After the "full race" competition port and polish my heads are flowing numbers that should support 525 hp.


I bought a D36 from LPE on ebay, it had the 3.07's in it and I had a local drivetrain shop do the gear swop. I paid $250 for the dif, and $400 for the gears and install with a complete rebuild.
I have never been "Inside" my motor... the only motor mods are 1.6 RR..
I still have my STOCK exhaust manifolds & cats on the car.. I did remove the mufflers only..
I went to 3.73s and a 3500 converter to run the 12.2 .. now I went back to a 2800 converter & run 12.7 still at 110 mph in "GOOD AIR"
Porting starts at $450 for Street/Strip Poting. 3 angle valve job, setting spring height, back cut valves $325 if guides are good. Please call for more detail.
Greg Parker
Steadfast Performance
703.609.1200










