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I need some help here. I have a '95 6spd 377cid blown/nitrous injected street vette. I live live in Aruba, Dutch Caribbean Island. I'm running a D1 Procharger with a NX Nitrous wet system. The best dyno numbers that the car has, are 641 rwhp with 789 lbs of torque. My main problem at the track is launching the car. Best 1/4 mile numbers to date is 10.66 @ 135 mph with a very poor 60' of 1.847 sec. I have already broken 5 sets of u-joints, one axle shaft and one yoke. Now I was wondering if i could install a solid axle differantial without cutting the car. I'm sure that i could be in the 9 secs with a better 60'. My best 60' is 1.622 secs but after that the car poof, so no 1/4 et on that pass. Do you guys have any idea on that or do know about a kit to 'ease' the installation. My other problem is belt slippage. The 641 rwhp dyno pass, the boost gauge read only 7 psi of boost, but i had 200 shots of nitrous on it. The guys at ATI told me it should boost at least 15 psi with the 3.2 pulley. So, if you have any ideas on what to do regarding the belt slippage please let me know.
found these links using the search feature above- I have seen pics of a full solid 9" Ford rear in a C4- a guy on this forum has the car 90's Aqua Blue with a BIG engine!
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by dr.juice
I need some help here. I have a '95 6spd 377cid blown/nitrous injected street vette. I live live in Aruba, Dutch Caribbean Island. I'm running a D1 Procharger with a NX Nitrous wet system. The best dyno numbers that the car has, are 641 rwhp with 789 lbs of torque. My main problem at the track is launching the car. Best 1/4 mile numbers to date is 10.66 @ 135 mph with a very poor 60' of 1.847 sec. I have already broken 5 sets of u-joints, one axle shaft and one yoke. Now I was wondering if i could install a solid axle differantial without cutting the car. I'm sure that i could be in the 9 secs with a better 60'. My best 60' is 1.622 secs but after that the car poof, so no 1/4 et on that pass. Do you guys have any idea on that or do know about a kit to 'ease' the installation..
I think you could locate a live axle with just custom links to the stock frame brackets, coilover shocks and you'd have to fab an upper bracket for the panhard bar. I don't think butchering the car would be necessary at all with the possible exception of the bar bracket. The narrowest 9" housings came from 57 and 58 Fords, not sure about 59's. The wagons, Rancheros and police cars had larger diameter axle bearings. The next narrowest 9" (an inch or two, can't remember) is the 67-70 Mustangs, came in all big blocks, Clevelands (at least the 4-speeds) and the Boss. Of course, you don't sound like as much of a low buck racer as I was. You'll probably go with a custom housing.
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Oct 16, 2004 at 01:37 PM.
Not trying to start a manual vs auto war, but it would be ALOT easier to put an auto in the car and it would make the rear components live much longer and give you better 60' times that your after.
I suggest the above, as then you would not have to cut the car up for the solid axle setup.
As for the belt slippage, I would suggest a cogged belt. That will solve your slippage problems.
OK, thanks guys. At this point i don't want to go to a auto trans yet. I really want to get into the 9's with a 6spd. About the cog belt, i'm working on it, but they told me it's not going to drive the acc. So, as i was reading trough the forum i think i would try a 10 rib maybe. Do you have any idea if the car could run without the alternator?? Do the battery supply enough power for a pass??
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by dr.juice
OK, thanks guys. At this point i don't want to go to a auto trans yet. I really want to get into the 9's with a 6spd. About the cog belt, i'm working on it, but they told me it's not going to drive the acc. So, as i was reading trough the forum i think i would try a 10 rib maybe. Do you have any idea if the car could run without the alternator?? Do the battery supply enough power for a pass??
Sure it will. But if you want, just hook up a cut off switch to it. Free-wheeling, an alternator's drag will be nearly non-existent.
Not trying to start a manual vs auto war, but it would be ALOT easier to put an auto in the car and it would make the rear components live much longer and give you better 60' times that your after.
I saw the videos of your car. The launches are very hard. Looking at your videos i wonder if you're running stock rearend/components. I'm thinking very hard about going to an auto trans. I really want to hit 1.4's 60', that would really improve my 1/4 mile et. What kind of trans do you suggest. Are you running 700-R4?? At what rpm are you leaving the line?? If i install an auto trans, do i have to switch to a D36?
I saw the videos of your car. The launches are very hard. Looking at your videos i wonder if you're running stock rearend/components. I'm thinking very hard about going to an auto trans. I really want to hit 1.4's 60', that would really improve my 1/4 mile et. What kind of trans do you suggest. Are you running 700-R4?? At what rpm are you leaving the line?? If i install an auto trans, do i have to switch to a D36?
Thanks for the comments. My rear is a d44, I ran it like that with no problems, but figured it was just a matter of time - the spiders in these rears are the weak. So I put a spool in it that basically replaces all the inner moving parts. Makes it very strong.
I have busted a few other things, but after probably 300+ passes easily. But everything else is stock components. I just broke an outter spindle, but bought a used stock replacement. Good enough for 300+ passes before, so it should last a while again.
My tranny is a pro-built. Yet to hear something bad about them, and I am 100% pleased! Can't beat the service or the performance of the thing. Highly recommend it.
Can't help you with the rear end - but as to the belt slippage:
1. Is the belt really slipping? That LT1 hub doesn't have a keyway and can spin on the crank if the torque is high enough. With regular accessories - the load is too small, but a blower can really put a load on the serpentine system.
My tranny is a pro-built. Yet to hear something bad about them, and I am 100% pleased! Can't beat the service or the performance of the thing. Highly recommend it.
I need some advise here. I was thinking about a Th 400. What do you think? I have no clue on what trans i need to go with. I need one that's capable of handling about 800 horses and about 900 to 1000 lbs of torque. Any suggestions??
I have basically the same setup as you and I am running a 700 tranny built by Art Carr. I did have some problems with Art a while back and the first trans he built for me I broke the input drum shaft within a week. He covered it under warranty and everything has been fine since. I can't help you with the 60' time because my own best is only mid 1.7s, then again my car is not setup to drag.
The straight axle will be very possible! I will try to let you know how things are going with my setup in the next few weeks. I run a 6 spd also. I shimmed the spider gears super azz tight the help with less breakage, and polished the entire carrier. I do agree with ski being that the posi is the week link, but I just dont want a spool yet due to the street driving I do. I also cryoed the entire third memeber. I plan on doing some 4-5k side steps on slicks very soon, and can let you know how things go for me.
I have basically the same setup as you and I am running a 700 tranny built by Art Carr. I did have some problems with Art a while back and the first trans he built for me I broke the input drum shaft within a week. He covered it under warranty and everything has been fine since. I can't help you with the 60' time because my own best is only mid 1.7s, then again my car is not setup to drag.
My cam and heads do you have on there?
Well, i have Vette Tech drag-race suspension installed, coil-overs all around and no leaf springs. Cam is a special grind(don't have the specs with me) and the heads are TPIS.
I'm supposed to run around 20 psi with the D1SC but so far the guage read just around 7 psi.
The straight axle will be very possible! I will try to let you know how things are going with my setup in the next few weeks. I run a 6 spd also. I shimmed the spider gears super azz tight the help with less breakage, and polished the entire carrier. I do agree with ski being that the posi is the week link, but I just dont want a spool yet due to the street driving I do. I also cryoed the entire third memeber. I plan on doing some 4-5k side steps on slicks very soon, and can let you know how things go for me.
Allright, thanks alot. I saw a few pics of the Hoover car and i got the picture how it's done. But as ski_dwn_it said, a auto trans would give me the 60' times that i'm looking for, so i'm thinking to switch to a auto trans asap.
Allright, thanks alot. I saw a few pics of the Hoover car and i got the picture how it's done. But as ski_dwn_it said, a auto trans would give me the 60' times that i'm looking for, so i'm thinking to switch to a auto trans asap.