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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Drag race susp. question
Is there any advantage on these cars to be gained by unhooking the front and/or rear sway bars for dragging? Anyone doing this or have tried it? I'll be running DRs, 3.07s and still the stock converter at this time. I also have poly bushings in the rear susp. and no drag shocks or anything else drag specific, suspension-wise. I am going to lower the back a little.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Well I'm doing it anyway, for general handling but it doesn't seem that it would hurt for dragging either, as far as weight transfer goes. Am I wrong? Admittedly, I've never dragged an IRS car before. Are you online, Mr Mo? You da' man!
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Oct 16, 2004 at 02:19 PM.
Dropping the front sway bar will remove some weight but I don't see any other advantage as both front wheels lift the same on launch.
I've lowered the rear of my '88 and it certainly didn't hurt launch, may have halped a little and certainly looks much better.
What pressure are you running in your DRs and what size DRs?? Do you launch off idle and let the TC flash up to stall or do you preload the suspension a little before launch?
I'm looking to do Drag mods to my rear end also. I purchased lower camber brackets( different offset) that should help and I'm wondering if modified trailing arm brackets would work? I have all poly bushings plus, cryoed inner, outer axles, diff internals 3.73's and beefier steel (mild) halfshafts with solid u-joints and a Vette Brakes toe kit. I really want to lower the car and I'm hoping it doesn't hurt traction. Does anyone have any idea what is done to the trailing arm brackets for drag racing, this seems to be a 4 link style but I'd think it works differently?
Last edited by JUAN J SANCHEZ; Oct 16, 2004 at 02:58 PM.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by JUAN J SANCHEZ
I'm looking to do Drag mods to my rear end also. I purchased lower camber brackets( different offset) that should help and I'm wondering if modified trailing arm brackets would work? I have all poly bushings plus, cryoed inner, outer axles, diff internals 3.73's and beefier steel (mild) halfshafts with solid u-joints and a Vette Brakes toe kit. I really want to lower the car and I'm hoping it doesn't hurt traction. Does anyone have any idea what is done to the trailing arm brackets for drag racing, this seems to be a 4 link style but I'd think it works differently?
Yes, it's a four link and I'd think an adjustable 4-link would be great. DRM has brackets to relocate the trailing arms and the camber arms. I'll just be dragging for fun and to see what it'll do but I think those camber brackets and modded trailing arm brackets would be great though. Let us know how they work out, they're on my wish list for later. And 65ZO1, I haven't been there yet but have some 275 Nitto DRs on 9.5 sawblades and thought I'd start at 20 psi and go from there. The guy I bought them from said they worked well for him at 17.
Maybe 20psi will be ok with the wider tread. When I tried the 255x16 BFGs from my IROC on the Vette I had to drop to 17psi to get reliable hookup. And that even failed after the sun went down, but then I don't have a line-lock to realy heat em up.
Unbolting the front sway bar will allow the front to spring up more freely and quicker, producing better weight transfer. Taking it out completely gets rid of weight. I wouldn't touch the rear! Just my .02.
With my car, removing the sway bar didn't give me any gains, but for some strange reason it got more consistent. There are plenty of guys still running with it on. You can try disconnecting it first and trying it out before committing to removing it. It's not hard, but on jackstands it can get tricky.
I took mine off for a cleaner looking car,less things to get in the way.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
With my car, removing the sway bar didn't give me any gains, but for some strange reason it got more consistent. There are plenty of guys still running with it on. You can try disconnecting it first and trying it out before committing to removing it. It's not hard, but on jackstands it can get tricky.
I took mine off for a cleaner looking car,less things to get in the way.
Well I would just unhook mine anyway as I wouldn't want to remove it permanently for my purposes. Do you run 90/10s or anything in the front? How about the rear, anything special? I wouldn't mind changing shocks for the track if I raced a few times a year.
When the car was my daily driver I would simply unhook the sway bar and pull it forward. Easy to do at track. Now I just removed it completely. 2 15mm bolts if I remember right.
take off the front sway bar
the rear depends on how hard it leaves if it can or will leave violent then jack up the rear if it leaves soft leave it alone
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by CORKVETTE1
take off the front sway bar
the rear depends on how hard it leaves if it can or will leave violent then jack up the rear if it leaves soft leave it alone
It probably won't leave TOO violently until I upgrade from the stock converter!