6-spd problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Reading Pennsylvania
6-spd problem
95 LT1, all stock, 35K mi, weekend driver - after car sets for a week, can't get 6-spd tranny into any gear when first started - after engine warms up for 4 to 5 minutes, all is well - drives and shifts fine, clutch seems fine, gears not grinding, CAGS not disabled. Any ideas? I just hate to wait 5 min to begin enjoying life on the open road.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 17,881
Likes: 25
From: The third orange grove on the left
You are way low on clutch fluid. Do not drive the car like this. Fill it up before you drive any further. Do yourself a favor and replace the clutch master cylinder, hydraulic line, and slave actuator. Driving with a leaking hydraulic system can wear out your transmission in no time because the synchronizers are working much harder to compensate for the clutch system. Once a synchro goes out you will have to rebuild or replace the tranny which is VERY expensive 
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 17,881
Likes: 25
From: The third orange grove on the left
Originally Posted by TommyVelour
Thanks 1995LT1 - sounds like good advice. If you like beer and blues, check out the Bubba Mack Shack in Somers Point, NJ
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
also change the gear oil. If it's original, it's more than due. I recommend using Castrol TWS 10-60, availble only from your local BMW dealer.
The tranny uses a little more than 2 litres, so you will have to buy 3 bottles the first time out... about $8.00 a bottle.
The tranny uses a little more than 2 litres, so you will have to buy 3 bottles the first time out... about $8.00 a bottle.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,814
Likes: 0
From: Port Orange Florida
Now that you speak about it.My 6-speed it kinda hard to get in first.It nevers grinds.The hardest fastest shifts are great and the clutch grabs enough to spin third and chirp 4th on the right roads.
Should it be this hard and notchy?...it's a 92 and 100k on it.
Should it be this hard and notchy?...it's a 92 and 100k on it.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,814
Likes: 0
From: Port Orange Florida
I'm positive this clutch is relatively new.....the action is flawless.Not a studder shake vibration or any amount of slip.I was extremely hard on this car the day I bought it......I wanted it to overheat smoke and cry...it did none of the above.The shifting action is just notchy feeling.Don't get me wrong.It won't miss a gear even if youtry and lazy shift it.Just feels like 1st is too hard.Plus the dang 1to4 light comes on when being idled out in 1st.Kinda like it's being held in first.Not sure if the CAGS! has been done.It never makes me do the 1stto4th change but when that light comes on it is a bitch to get outta 1st..
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
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From: San Pedro CA
Originally Posted by USAsOnlyWay
There should be resevoir...I forget where it is at though, somewhere deep in the back of the engine bay I am sure.
in 1991 to 1996 Vettes, you have to remove the ECU to reach it!!!
it's right under the ECU, on the firewall. Can't miss it.
I recommend Valvoline Synpower Brake fluid. Works great!
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 599
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From: anderson sc
Originally Posted by 1995LT1
Do yourself a favor and replace the clutch master cylinder, hydraulic line, and slave actuator.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,814
Likes: 0
From: Port Orange Florida
Open your hood and look under the ECM...you will see it with a flashlight.You can check the level like that.Mine is right above the add line...well about halfway between....what fluid would work in there.I don't wanna hear GM #$%%^$... 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,101
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From: Orange TX
Do change your gear oil . When your car is not running can you change gears with out to much trouble you should be able to. Your clutch may be getting weak. Have you tried pumping your clutch may have a bad master or slave. My car was getting hard to shift before I changed clutch but not that hard. Shifts smooth as silk now. Good Luck
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 16,024
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From: Stratford Ontario
Originally Posted by Clemson Vette
this is something i'd like to do to mine, since it constantly leaks fluid and i have to check it about once a month to top er off. doenst that sound like my prob. also, i have some kind of small leak very small, like a drop a day, from the rear of engine, in the dust cover area. leaks down that tab from behind the oil plug. could something in there be leaking? as for the replacment? how hard are these to do? is it an hours job or should i sell my soul to get it done? and how expensive are the parts? any certain upgrades possible at this point? got fresh tranny oil in it. just dont feel like rebuilding it. thanks in advance and please lay out my options for me.
You have a leak.......surprise.
It sounds to me like it's either your slave or the line itself. The master leaks into the footwell inside the car. The job is not difficult and if you have all the parts it won't take more than a few hours. Do change the master, slave and line at the same time, I didn't and that's why it will be my third time under the car doing this job (I hope to have the new line in this weekend). The parts prices aren't that bad. Expect to pay around $100 for each the slave and master and about $70 for the line and $3-4 for the fluid.
Winter is coming fast around here, invite me for a visit and I'd be glad to help you fix her.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 17,881
Likes: 25
From: The third orange grove on the left
Originally Posted by Clemson Vette
how hard are these to do? is it an hours job or should i sell my soul to get it done? and how expensive are the parts? any certain upgrades possible at this point? got fresh tranny oil in it. just dont feel like rebuilding it. thanks in advance and please lay out my options for me.
http://www.zfdoc.com/clutch_hydraulic.htm
Also check out the rest of that website for lots of other great info on the zf 6 speed.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 16,024
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From: Stratford Ontario
Originally Posted by 1995LT1
Removing and replacing the parts is not difficult and should not take more than a few hours. Removing the air from the system is the only part of the job that has the potential to try your patience. If you reverse fill the system by pumping in the new fluid from the bottom up it makes the job go much smoother. Here is a link for the clutch hydraulic system.
http://www.zfdoc.com/clutch_hydraulic.htm
Also check out the rest of that website for lots of other great info on the zf 6 speed.
http://www.zfdoc.com/clutch_hydraulic.htm
Also check out the rest of that website for lots of other great info on the zf 6 speed.
Don't even bother with that bleeding techinque. The slave cylinders for the late model vettes are self bleeding and only require you to be on a flat surface and in a matter of under 10 minutes (thank you "h rocks" and "GK") you'll be on your way. Been there, done that, more times than I cared too.
