Pulling Motor - what I have found so far
07-20-2001, 02:13 AM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
For those who have followed through all of this, I am now ready to swap the old 350 ci motor for my new 408 (350 based block) w/ MRII and SR. The wife and kids are gone through the weekend, so the fun has begun.
Upon start of the swap, I found the ladder bolts loose, can spin with fingers if a jack is placed under the tranny. The washers are concave, and the ladder has been moving as well as you can see the pinion angle has been moving as well. This may explain the rash of 3.7 - 2.3 60' times I have had in the last year. The bolts were tight as I had checked them some time back. Anyone have any thoughts on how badly this would affect hook? The car is an '87 with the 6 speed and 3.45D44. I am running ET drags at the street. Best times are in the 11.2 - 11.4 @ 124-126 MPH.
The PS return hose looked as if it had a pin hole leak. I had a mysterious leak of PS fluid every once in a while.
The #7 exhaust valve lash cap was laying near the oil return, but the rocker was only slightly loose.
#3 & #7 exhasut ports are filled with black "gummy mush". These two cylinders had 0 cranking compression. I'm betting I lifted the ring lands.
The o-rings on the fuel lines are wasted and the coolant temp sensor broke when I was removing the headers.
I have got all the top end off (wiring, plumbing, fluids) and the jack is supporting the tranny. I still need to pull the A/C compressor and work all the items that are required on the bottom end.
On a very positive note, this will probably be the last time I will ever have to mess with the SR (JL1 box). Great unit but royal PITA. Have had since '93 and now moving to the MRII.
Just thought you guys might be interested.
Aaron
Upon start of the swap, I found the ladder bolts loose, can spin with fingers if a jack is placed under the tranny. The washers are concave, and the ladder has been moving as well as you can see the pinion angle has been moving as well. This may explain the rash of 3.7 - 2.3 60' times I have had in the last year. The bolts were tight as I had checked them some time back. Anyone have any thoughts on how badly this would affect hook? The car is an '87 with the 6 speed and 3.45D44. I am running ET drags at the street. Best times are in the 11.2 - 11.4 @ 124-126 MPH.
The PS return hose looked as if it had a pin hole leak. I had a mysterious leak of PS fluid every once in a while.
The #7 exhaust valve lash cap was laying near the oil return, but the rocker was only slightly loose.
#3 & #7 exhasut ports are filled with black "gummy mush". These two cylinders had 0 cranking compression. I'm betting I lifted the ring lands.
The o-rings on the fuel lines are wasted and the coolant temp sensor broke when I was removing the headers.
I have got all the top end off (wiring, plumbing, fluids) and the jack is supporting the tranny. I still need to pull the A/C compressor and work all the items that are required on the bottom end.
On a very positive note, this will probably be the last time I will ever have to mess with the SR (JL1 box). Great unit but royal PITA. Have had since '93 and now moving to the MRII.
Just thought you guys might be interested.
Aaron
07-20-2001, 06:57 AM
#2
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Holy cow!
What was done to the 350? Those are great times, used NOS?
Since its such a PITA I think you should send the SR over to my house to let me go even crazier with my car
. Seriously what do you plan to do with the SR? and whats been done to it?
Not sure if you have done a motor replacement before or not, but I found the passangers side motor mount to be a PAIN to get out, couldn't get to the bolts easily, that and be careful of that firewall, I put a small hole in the A/C evaperator housing, and I have heard the windshield wiper box likes to attract hits.
What was done to the 350? Those are great times, used NOS?
Since its such a PITA I think you should send the SR over to my house to let me go even crazier with my car
. Seriously what do you plan to do with the SR? and whats been done to it?Not sure if you have done a motor replacement before or not, but I found the passangers side motor mount to be a PAIN to get out, couldn't get to the bolts easily, that and be careful of that firewall, I put a small hole in the A/C evaperator housing, and I have heard the windshield wiper box likes to attract hits.
07-20-2001, 10:49 AM
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Basically the old motor was a stock bottom end 350 ci motor with a nice set of heads, cam, SR, 1.6 proMagnums, ported SR, and 58MM. The combo na ran in the high 11s at 115. I used to use a 3 stage N2O system, but beat up the driveline a lot (especially the old 700R4), so I switched to an ATI ProCharger some time back. Great combo for a street car.
As you can see by the poor 60' times, I actually wanted to reduce the bottom end (my old cam was advanced 4°) and possibly pull more on the top end. This was available, as I was now building a very stout bottom end.
The question, was the movement of the D44 pinion angle possibly causing some of the difficulties with the 60' times? This was the whole premis of the build up (reduce bottom end to help the car hook).
My goal when I started, was:
No matter how ugly the 60' times (and a 3.7 sec 60' time is way ugly) it has to be able to produce 10s on the motor/blower combo. According to the "pros" at LPE, PMS, and TPIS, the conservative rating of 525 RWHP on motor/blower combo should easily get me into the very low 10s. They also state that the motor properly tuned should be more along the lines of 600RWHP. I have also reinstalled the old staged NOS system (looks really good). I have no plans at this time to use it, but it has been installed.
BTW, if I haven't mentioned, the SR is a royal PITA to install/remove (probably about 1.5 hrs to pull). Mine has had corners massaged, bolts relieved, and the four inside bolts welded and retaped with countersunk allen screws to ease installation.
Thanks,
Aaron
As you can see by the poor 60' times, I actually wanted to reduce the bottom end (my old cam was advanced 4°) and possibly pull more on the top end. This was available, as I was now building a very stout bottom end.
The question, was the movement of the D44 pinion angle possibly causing some of the difficulties with the 60' times? This was the whole premis of the build up (reduce bottom end to help the car hook).
My goal when I started, was:
No matter how ugly the 60' times (and a 3.7 sec 60' time is way ugly) it has to be able to produce 10s on the motor/blower combo. According to the "pros" at LPE, PMS, and TPIS, the conservative rating of 525 RWHP on motor/blower combo should easily get me into the very low 10s. They also state that the motor properly tuned should be more along the lines of 600RWHP. I have also reinstalled the old staged NOS system (looks really good). I have no plans at this time to use it, but it has been installed.
BTW, if I haven't mentioned, the SR is a royal PITA to install/remove (probably about 1.5 hrs to pull). Mine has had corners massaged, bolts relieved, and the four inside bolts welded and retaped with countersunk allen screws to ease installation.
Thanks,
Aaron
07-20-2001, 07:56 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Another update:
Threads on the water pump air injection pump line came out with the bolt. Probably looking at a new wp. Maybe order one from Summit.
Got the 7/16" ProMagnums from SpeedDemon Motorsports today, to replace the 3/8" PM as on the engine I am pulling. The old style sb Chevy pushrods that are supposed to be the correct length for SR cams are 0.350" too short. No one local has these. Will prevent me from starting this beast this weekend.
Took the Y pipe with cat to the muffler shop to have a replacement off road pipe fabricated in the correct length with the ball rolled end. This will all be bolt on so that I can put the cat back on after I verify that there is not a difference in power. Going to pick it up shortly.
Had to do lots of work on the AFR 210CP heads to fit the valve covers and other items on. This is discussed in the aftermarket parts section under "head opinions". These are not just bolt on and go heads like the old AFR 190 heads and many LPE or TPIS heads. But they sure are nice, and they have the flow to back them up.
Oh yeah, I broke the temp sensor in the head while trying to pull the drivers header. AutoZone visit, if I don't have it in another set of takeoffs laying around.
That's all I can remember for now. Maybe the motor will come out tomorrow, as I will probably spend the rest of the PM assembling on the new motor. Another late night.
Aaron
Threads on the water pump air injection pump line came out with the bolt. Probably looking at a new wp. Maybe order one from Summit.
Got the 7/16" ProMagnums from SpeedDemon Motorsports today, to replace the 3/8" PM as on the engine I am pulling. The old style sb Chevy pushrods that are supposed to be the correct length for SR cams are 0.350" too short. No one local has these. Will prevent me from starting this beast this weekend.
Took the Y pipe with cat to the muffler shop to have a replacement off road pipe fabricated in the correct length with the ball rolled end. This will all be bolt on so that I can put the cat back on after I verify that there is not a difference in power. Going to pick it up shortly.
Had to do lots of work on the AFR 210CP heads to fit the valve covers and other items on. This is discussed in the aftermarket parts section under "head opinions". These are not just bolt on and go heads like the old AFR 190 heads and many LPE or TPIS heads. But they sure are nice, and they have the flow to back them up.
Oh yeah, I broke the temp sensor in the head while trying to pull the drivers header. AutoZone visit, if I don't have it in another set of takeoffs laying around.
That's all I can remember for now. Maybe the motor will come out tomorrow, as I will probably spend the rest of the PM assembling on the new motor. Another late night.
Aaron
07-20-2001, 09:13 PM
#5
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Member Since: May 2001
Location: Framingham,MA,USA
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Originally Posted by AKS Racing
For those who have followed through all of this, I am now ready to swap the old 350 ci motor for my new 408 (350 based block) w/ MRII and SR. The wife and kids are gone through the weekend, so the fun has begun.
Upon start of the swap, I found the ladder bolts loose, can spin with fingers if a jack is placed under the tranny. The washers are concave, and the ladder has been moving as well as you can see the pinion angle has been moving as well. This may explain the rash of 3.7 - 2.3 60' times I have had in the last year. The bolts were tight as I had checked them some time back. Anyone have any thoughts on how badly this would affect hook? The car is an '87 with the 6 speed and 3.45D44. I am running ET drags at the street. Best times are in the 11.2 - 11.4 @ 124-126 MPH.
The PS return hose looked as if it had a pin hole leak. I had a mysterious leak of PS fluid every once in a while.
The #7 exhaust valve lash cap was laying near the oil return, but the rocker was only slightly loose.
#3 & #7 exhasut ports are filled with black "gummy mush". These two cylinders had 0 cranking compression. I'm betting I lifted the ring lands.
The o-rings on the fuel lines are wasted and the coolant temp sensor broke when I was removing the headers.
I have got all the top end off (wiring, plumbing, fluids) and the jack is supporting the tranny. I still need to pull the A/C compressor and work all the items that are required on the bottom end.
On a very positive note, this will probably be the last time I will ever have to mess with the SR (JL1 box). Great unit but royal PITA. Have had since '93 and now moving to the MRII.
Just thought you guys might be interested.
Aaron[/color]
Upon start of the swap, I found the ladder bolts loose, can spin with fingers if a jack is placed under the tranny. The washers are concave, and the ladder has been moving as well as you can see the pinion angle has been moving as well. This may explain the rash of 3.7 - 2.3 60' times I have had in the last year. The bolts were tight as I had checked them some time back. Anyone have any thoughts on how badly this would affect hook? The car is an '87 with the 6 speed and 3.45D44. I am running ET drags at the street. Best times are in the 11.2 - 11.4 @ 124-126 MPH.
The PS return hose looked as if it had a pin hole leak. I had a mysterious leak of PS fluid every once in a while.
The #7 exhaust valve lash cap was laying near the oil return, but the rocker was only slightly loose.
#3 & #7 exhasut ports are filled with black "gummy mush". These two cylinders had 0 cranking compression. I'm betting I lifted the ring lands.
The o-rings on the fuel lines are wasted and the coolant temp sensor broke when I was removing the headers.
I have got all the top end off (wiring, plumbing, fluids) and the jack is supporting the tranny. I still need to pull the A/C compressor and work all the items that are required on the bottom end.
On a very positive note, this will probably be the last time I will ever have to mess with the SR (JL1 box). Great unit but royal PITA. Have had since '93 and now moving to the MRII.
Just thought you guys might be interested.
Aaron[/color]
Hope it goes well,
Jeff