Head Studs
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Head Studs
I’ve read if head studs are used there could be a possible clearance issues when removing the heads with the engine in the car. Does anyone know if they’ll clear the accessories surrounding the heads?
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
That’s what I was thinking. I believe the passenger side is good with the exception of the A/C accumulator box, and the M/C on the driver’s side.
Hopefully someone out there can tell me for sure because they’ve tried it
Seems like im always the Pioneer.
Hopefully someone out there can tell me for sure because they’ve tried it
Seems like im always the Pioneer.
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by LPDesRoche
Not sure what engine you have, but on a L98 the heads will come off fine with head studs. As for LT1 I haven't a clue.
I have to replace the intake manifold gasket due to an oil leak, and while im there I might as well pull the heads and install new valve springs, Teflon seals, and CC roller rockers.
Team Owner
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From: SE NY
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All those operations can be done easily with heads on the engine.
Indeed I wouldn't pull the heads unless you have a problem with them or want to have them worked.
BTW, what year Vette??
Last edited by 65Z01; Oct 25, 2004 at 12:15 PM.
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
I agree that all these changes could be made with the heads still on the car, but since im pulling the intake anyway its not really that much more work to pull the heads.
I do need some input on valve springs. Id like a nice solid valve spring that’ll work with 1.6’s and stand up to the test of time. If I need to have the spring seats cut to fit a larger diameter spring, that’s fine.
I do need some input on valve springs. Id like a nice solid valve spring that’ll work with 1.6’s and stand up to the test of time. If I need to have the spring seats cut to fit a larger diameter spring, that’s fine.
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From: SE NY
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I used Comp. Cams #981 springs with the 1.6:1 ProMags on my '88 L98 with stock cam. I shimmed the springs (CC has a variety shim kit) to about 110lbs at the seat.
What year L98 do you have?
BTW, I too thought of how close I was to the heads when I had the intake and valve covers off. But that would have been more "fun" than I was ready for at the time.
What year L98 do you have?
BTW, I too thought of how close I was to the heads when I had the intake and valve covers off. But that would have been more "fun" than I was ready for at the time.
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by 65Z01
What year L98 do you have?
Did you have to cut the seats for the new springs?
Le Mans Master
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From: Santa Maria, CA
I use ARP studs on my L98. I was not able to get my AFR heads on and off with all the studs threaded. It only requires the removal of a few rear studs. They are threaded into the block with an allen wrench so really it is a non-issue.
The thing I had a PITA with was coolant oozing past the stud threads in the block. I tried different kinds of thread sealer with no luck. Finally what did the trick was using a combo of wrapping the stud's threads with the teflon tape used in plumbing and then coating them with the white paste teflon liquid.
The thing I had a PITA with was coolant oozing past the stud threads in the block. I tried different kinds of thread sealer with no luck. Finally what did the trick was using a combo of wrapping the stud's threads with the teflon tape used in plumbing and then coating them with the white paste teflon liquid.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Elizabeth City, NC
Originally Posted by 89 Paul in Cal
I use ARP studs on my L98. I was not able to get my AFR heads on and off with all the studs threaded. It only requires the removal of a few rear studs. They are threaded into the block with an allen wrench so really it is a non-issue.
The thing I had a PITA with was coolant oozing past the stud threads in the block. I tried different kinds of thread sealer with no luck. Finally what did the trick was using a combo of wrapping the stud's threads with the teflon tape used in plumbing and then coating them with the white paste teflon liquid.
The thing I had a PITA with was coolant oozing past the stud threads in the block. I tried different kinds of thread sealer with no luck. Finally what did the trick was using a combo of wrapping the stud's threads with the teflon tape used in plumbing and then coating them with the white paste teflon liquid.
Lee
