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Okay I've heard several people mention doing this mod but nobody mentioned specifically how
Are you guys getting in there and just cutting them out or what? I just took a brief look at it and was thinking hrmm I better ask before I do something stupid and damage it.
Just a thought I had while I was down there fixing that light in the hood, the drivers side wasn't working properly, the wiring at some point was damaged as it's been spliced back together and electric tape applied (heh god I love used cars, it's a new magic moment of discovery every 10 minutes).
Been one of those nights of just ripping things apart to figure out what stupid **** previous owners have done and trying to clean up what I can for cheap
Good question. You need to take the MAF fully out of the car. Then hold it real secure and use a small wire cutters or side cutters they are sometimes called. There is a small ridge around the circumferance of the screen that you nip out with the cutters. Make a few cuts in it and you should be able to remove the hard plastic ring that is holding the screen in. Don't cut all the way through the end of the maf. Hopefully I have explained it good enough but I'm sure others will have better/different explanations.
Would a dremel tool work better for this operation then wire cutters?
Sorry for asking like retarded questions but I'm just getting started with things and trying to make as few expensive mistakes as possible as I don't have much cash aka none left hardly till my other car sells (2000 Cougar), ps: EbayMotors sucks hehe it keeps screwing up when I try to list my car on there ;(
Take the MAF out of the car and then use a utlity knife or razor blade to cut aruond the circumference of the MAF on the molding line where the end ring is glued to the barrel. When you hear a crack or you can see the end ring start to come off just pull the ring off and then use a knife blade or thin screwdriver to carefully pry the screens out. Be VERY VERY careful not to touch the thin wires in the venturi inside the MAF, this will kill the MAF. Also be sure to make the inside of the MAF very clean before reinstallation, and NEVER run your engine without the air cleaner after removing MAF screens. Have fun and be a bit careful, but this isn't very difficult.
Bob
Inside the MAF there is a little ring (3/4 inch diameter) on a post. Inside this ring (or venturi) there are four little posts and a very (human hair size) wire running between these posts. DO NOT TOUCH THIS WIRE WITH ANYTHING!! other than that just make sure the bore is clean when you are done, and never run without the air cleaner and intake hoses attached. Good luck.
I'm not sure what years you are refering to, but I didn't have near that much trouble getting my screen out. Just took a very small screwdriver to the c-clip and unhooked it, then pulled it out with needle nose pliers. Then the screen just fell out. Guess I just lucked out?
notbob you didn't say what year your car is. The MAFs on L98s vs. LT1s are quite different. On the LT1 I think it's just held in by a round "clip" as R94 LT1 describes. No cutting needed.
You're going to get 2, maybe 3 hp's out if it. The screen is there for a reason.
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I did a "little" reseach into this because I heard it "might" throw a code. What I found out was, that "most" of the problems were coming from F-bodies. Screens are there to straighten the air as it comes across the wires. On an F-body, the air comes from the side and turns a corner before it makes it to the MAF. On mine, I basically have a straight in straight out setup. I haven't had a dyno since I pulled them, but I did notice a SOTP improvement. Also, since my screen clips in, I DID save it just in case, I can always put it back in.
edit
that is the rear screen as if I had a front, it was already gone.
[This message has been edited by R94 LT 1 (edited 07-26-2001).]
I've heard results of it really screwing up the car. Hard starting, rough idle, just overall crap. The things are in there for a reason, if you want 3 hp, do a throttle body bypass. It's much easier, and very easy to put back.
Some people claim they do it without trouble, I've also heard horror stories. IMHO it's just not worth it, there is more power to be had in other places.
You could just buy a speed density car and not worry about it
I've done it on my 88 IROC and 96 LT4. Zero problems. The IROC picked up 0.1 second in the quartermile. Not 0.1 second on one run, but consistently 0.1 second quicker. Thats more like 10HP. Did I mention I had ZERO problems?
I have the method I use to remove the screens and safely cut out the heat sink fins on my site.
Gutting the L98 MAF increases the air flow potential considerably (see TPIS "Insider Hints" flow measurements). You may not notice the difference on a stock motor but will benefit on a modified one.
Cutting the screens also leans out your AFR. Scan a WOT run on a stock car. I'll bet the MAF never sees more than 210 g/s. That's much less than the ~500 cfm 'restriction' the MAF is supposed to be. Worry about the screens when your car needs the extra airflow.
I read a post/article several months ago about this topic. It said that removing the screen is NOT recommended. The screen is there for two reasons; The first and most important is that the screen does cause air turbulance which is needed for the MAF to send the correct info for fuel/air mixture. The second reason was to protect the thin wires inside the venturi.