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I had the wheel off my vette a few weeks ago, and I noticed that the sway bar bushing was a little messed up. The Rear Drivers Side wheel was off, and it was where the rear sway bar connects to the spindle. Would having a shot sway bar bushing cause my car to "pop" and "clunk" occassionaly, aswell as "clang" when driving down a rough road? Any comment appreciated!
Sure...a bad bar bushing can cause alot of noise sometimes on bad roads and bumps.
It also helps to check all the other bushings as well while your back there..I justd did my rear suspension on the 86..every bushing was falling apart internally..couldnt really see it until I began unbolting everything.
All that was making alot of nosie at times.
From: Stafford, Virginia Kittah, Kittah, Kittah...
I just replaced the rear sway bar bushings last week on my 96 @ 63K miles...
It made an incredible difference in the ride... The bushings were cracked all the way around and probably weren't doing their job...
I'll try to post some pics of the old bushings so you can see how bad they looked at a relatively low mileage...
The bushings are cheap, $6/ea X 4... But it's quite a job to replace because you have to actually remove the sway bar from the car to even get the end link brackets off...
The bushings are a press in design, so leaving the sway bar in isn't an option for replacement... One bushing in the end link, and one in the sway bar end itself...
Only problem now is that the back end rides so much better that the front end ride feels like junk now... I'm going to have to check the bushings in the front as well...
So I'll need a press to put these bushings in? In the Haynes Manual it says they just slide in. What does Haynes know though. LOL, thanks for the replies. I'm going to see if I can get the bushings here in town at a parts store, before I go and order anything.
If you want a real boost in handling try Energy Suspension (ES) black poly graphite sway bar bushings. The two main bushings have grease fittings so they never squeak.
Be sure to do both front and rear to keep proper handling characteristics.
TIMSPEED, if they are originals, all of them are definitely gone, with a capital "G". As Wake found out, you can't just do one area of the car. Trust me when I suggest that at a minimum, you need replace all of the lower control arm bushings, along with the all the swaybar related pieces, and the rear camber rod bushings. I did them all ('90 coupe) except the steering rack bushings. Along with the ones I mentioned, if you do the huge diff carrier bushings, you *will* immediately feel the car become *much* more responsive to steering inputs. The overall car will feel tighter.
Did you replace ALL the bushings? Because there's 2 bushings on each side. (End Link to Knuckle, Link to Bar). Also, did you use all rubber bushings, all poly bushings, or a mix? Thanks!