DON M

I have one of these and they can be deceiving. Some stainless alloys are magnetic! I think you are OK with the pipe.
Don

LTxDave

I have some SLP headers which are 304 and 409 stainless steel. The flanges where they attach to the engine are 304 and don't rust. The tubes are 409 and they are oxidized a little. Not like bare steel would mind you. Whenever you pick them up, you get a little rust on your hands. The tubes are still smooth and all, the oxidation is very fine. Hope that makes sense.

Vic'89

Sarkee

How is the fit of the front Y-pipe ? Did you install it yet ? Did everything line up correctly ?

Thanks for any feedback.

Vic

65Z01

When I received my front Y-pipe from MAD one side was "mangled" and would not have fit. So I sent it back and went to Mufflex in Trenton, NJ to have a custom 2 1/2" SS front Y-pipe fabricated. It was only ~$300 for the front Y, cat install and rear Y mod/install. Those guys realy know their stuff and they stand behind the work.

Vic'89

That sounds good, let us know when you have it installed. Looks like I will order the Ypipe, maybe MAD fixed the problems with the ypipe.

Vic

DON M

One tip I can give you guys is to soak down the studs and bolts (where the Y-pipe connects to the header flange) with some penetrating oil for a few days ahead of your installation. I had a terrible time getting them loose and broke off two of them. The Kroil brand is good stuff, but Liquid Wrench is OK too. I had to use a torch and burn the studs out. It was pretty messy.
I think that had I known about the trouble, I would have gone ahead and put in full length headers. I will have to do it any way because I am planning a 383ci motor in the spring. The Y-pipe was an interm solution just to get rid of the pre-cats. This all is a learning process.
Good luck,
Don