LT1 upper radiator hoses
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 7,625
Likes: 4
From: Director of Bands
St. Jude Donor '08
LT1 upper radiator hoses
I have heard that the uppers tend to give out well before the lower. Anyone else ever heard of this? I had my opti/water pump replaced just before I purchased the car (about 8000 miles ago) and I cannot tell if they replace the upper radiator hoses or not. They don't look bad, but after seeing a couple fail and soak the opti at autox, I am a little concerned. What would you guys do? Replace them anyway? If I replace them, can I re-use the stock hose clamps?
TIA,
Ed
TIA,
Ed
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I would replace all of the radiator hoses if yours appear to be original. AFtermarket hoses may not have any sort of markings at all on them or maybe nothing more than the brand logo. The GM hose should have a part number and maybe even "GM" on it. Replacement GM hoses will usually have a white dust on it that is some sort of moisture absorber.
The OEM clams can be reused. They are a spring steel and have the right amount of clamping force needed to keep the hose in place and prevent leaks.
Does you 93 have the metal "Tee" fitting on the upper hose? My 92 has one and that's where the small hose from the TB connects. You should replace that small hose too.
When I did my hoses this year, the tee fitting had a bit of corrosion around the welds and most of the coating had come off on the inside so that stuff was floating around in the cooling system. I carefully ground the corrosion off and repainted the outside.
The OEM clams can be reused. They are a spring steel and have the right amount of clamping force needed to keep the hose in place and prevent leaks.
Does you 93 have the metal "Tee" fitting on the upper hose? My 92 has one and that's where the small hose from the TB connects. You should replace that small hose too.
When I did my hoses this year, the tee fitting had a bit of corrosion around the welds and most of the coating had come off on the inside so that stuff was floating around in the cooling system. I carefully ground the corrosion off and repainted the outside.
Elite Torch Red Member
Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
Cental/South NJ Events Coordinator
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Vet
CI-II Burnout & Drag Champ
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07
Don't know aboy previous owners, but I bought the car with 57,000 miles, the water pump went at 67,000, I didn't replace the upper hose until I replaced the Rad at 119,000.
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Both hoses are "upper" hoses on an LT1. But the real upper is the one that goes to the upper radiator position, the left. This one is under the most pressure and the other one could even be considered a suction hose as it is the return to the engine. Often, you'll notice, the lower hose on a car is the one with coiled wire inside to prevent collapse. Anyhow, long story short (too late for that, right?) the top usually fails first because it is under the most pressure.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,066
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From: Milpitas ca
I doubt if they changed the hoses when they did your Opti and waterpump unless you told them to do so.
Squeeze the hoses. If it feels crunchy or if you hear a crunchy sound it time to switch them out. ( I was too late)
You can re-use the squeeze clamps but I changed the screw clamps.
Squeeze the hoses. If it feels crunchy or if you hear a crunchy sound it time to switch them out. ( I was too late)
You can re-use the squeeze clamps but I changed the screw clamps.
