Not sure who knows me, and who doesn't, So here is a little history:

1988, 4+3, 3.07 gears, 71000 miles.

The mods I currently have are: 2149 Hookers with Y-pipe, Random Tech Cat, Flowmater catback, frisbee tossed, K&N with Cutlid, Screens cut from MAF, CentreForce Clutch, and Nitto 275/40/17.

With the above mods last month I went 13.78@100.47 MPH with a 1.99 short time, with no tuning at all. The weight of my car with half tank of gas, spare still in tact, and me weighing around 190 LBS, The car weight in at around 3550 give or take.....Estimate of current HP and Torque at the crank is approx. 285/390, But the problem is the car has nothing past 4700, Which is where I was shifting at if my mem is correct.

So anyways, These are the mods I have planned for the winter:

-1.6 RR's(10CHP, Allready bought the Bowtie LT-4)
-AFPR,Timing,Cutback Plugs(Should free up 10CHP)
-crank pulley, wires, airfoil, T-Stat(10CHP)
-was and still might siamese, and port runners,pleneum,base(15CHP)

I am not sure if my CHP is about right or now, but that would equal around 45CHP, and raise me up to around 330/410 I would assume, and I was hoping with those simple mods that dont cost alot, It would bring me down into the 13.3@105MPH range with a 1.9* short time. I was hoping anyways.

So the question is what to do? I was also thinking of the SR. But does it work on a near stock L-98 that I have. My goal is to run in the high 12's for next year. Can I do this without doing the cam, and heads? If i get the SR, Is it necessary to port it? Should I keep with my 113 heads?
And the questions go on, and on.......And to let u know, I have also thought of a 75-100 shot of N.O.S. I would think with that alone, I would be running high 12's, but what like to go N/A route first.

So what would u do if you were me, Remember I am on a budget. So taking the motor out and rebuilding it, is not an option. Hope you guys can help me out, Thanks!!!

BTW, It is snowing here in Barrie, ONT today.


No one else wants to post?

 

I would port the plenum,runners and base. Stock motor-I'll bet money that siamesing the pieces would cost too much torque and slow you down. Working the T.B. will help some. Porting won't cost you much except for time , and some materials. Just ported mine, and was extremely pleased with the results!! Doesn't run out of breath up top like it used to. Some say relocating the M.A.T. sensors worth a few; bypassing the T.B.. Sure some others that are running 12's on stock shortblock will chime in shortly. Good Luck

 

but do u think i am about right with my expections?

 

Rick, I don't know that you will get 10chp from the pulleys, but maybe so.

I would also suggest a 160deg T-stat & fan switch.

You may hit the MPH goal but will likely need a line lock to hook up well enough to bring down the short time to drop ET.

 

With your planned mods you will be able to reach low to mid 13's, you will not get 330 horsepower or 410 ft/lbs unless you get into the motor. I would suggest doing a cam swap and if going fast in the 1/4 is your main goal get some good sticky tires and light rims. You will definately benefit from some intake porting or miniram if your budget permits. You could run 100 shot of nitrous and along with some slicks and skinnies you will be in the 12's without any other mods.

 

so 330/410 isnt possible....huh!

o.k. thanks! didnt know about the 330, but since i am around 390 allready, figures 400 plus is realistic.

 

I would do the plenum and fuel pressure first. Made a huge difference in my 88 with the 4+3

 

How do you know you are at 390 crank torque? Is it just a guess? Take it to the dyno and find out your wheel numbers, not crank. Crank numbers don't mean anything because the power still has to get through the drivetrain and down on the ground.

You will not get those HP numbers with those mods. I wouldn't do a rebuild yet because your motor is just a baby. If you really want to go fast for cheap, put a nitrous kit on it. The only mod I would do on your list is the 1.6rr. Save your money and buy an SR intake, heads, and cam. In the meantime you can use nitrous to satifisy your need for speed and to spank people.

 

From Rick's 100.51mph trap speed with a launch weight of 3550lbs I calculated his power at 281chp.

I've used the same equations on a night when I got some dyno pulls just after passes down the 1/4 mile rwhp agreed very well with calculated chp, assuming a 17% DT loss with my A4.

So, if Rick can add 30chp (which I think is realistic) with intended bolt ons & tuning he will be building about 310chp (or maybe more), in the same weather as his prior runs. That should put him through the traps at around 103.5mph with an ET potential of ~13.1sec. Of course that will take a short time of low 1.8s or even high 1.7s.

It's true that if he does the siamese intake base it will cost some low end it will give him around 20chp more at 5,200rpm; since he has a stick shift that should be no problem. I changed to a 2,000rpm TC (from the stock 1,500rpm TC) when I did the siamese base and still it much improved my short time as well as upping my shift points.

 

Are you trying to be rude? Because I was just trying to help you out. You cannot use the "ricer" method of adding horsepower and torque. I hate to break your heart but your not making 390 ft/lbs, if you were making as much power as you claim you would be running much better than a 13.78 in the quarter unless you cannot drive.
Your probably making about 280 hp and 360 ft/lbs or less (flywheel). Rear wheel your probably making about 230 hp and 310 ft/lbs
It takes some engine work for a 350 to make 410 ft/lbs.

 

i am not trying to be rude sir.....talk to guys on the forum, i am far from that.

when i was stock the car dyoned 252/372 at the crank, i am at work so i dont have the RWHP numbers, but it was around 219/325....around that, so i estimated with my mods i gained around 15 foot pounds, that's all.


i think i have made a decision tonight on my mods...

i am going to do all the mods i mentioned above with the expection of, i am going to port the heads, 2.02 valve, and install the rockers which should be good for an extra 25-30CHP. i would imagine with all that, it would be good for high 12's, and if i do the 100 shot of NOS i would think i would be able to run low 12's.....

this is the plan anyways....

 

not to be a jerk, but there are many members on here with 87-90 L-98 that dynoed anywhere between 365-375 foot pounds at the crank in total stock trim in there manuals....Scorp508, and CorvetteMN6 to name a few.....it isnt hard to make over 400 ft/lbs after a few mods.

 

actually i am seriously thinking of a 75-100 shot of NOS....with the other mods i mentioned, and the one mod i will be adding is doing the heads, i hpoe to see low,low 12's in my future......and if this happens, 3.54 will be going in her.

 

what about upgrading to 3.73s. percision gears "the best in most drivetrain specialist's minds" are $239. would boost you up about 1/4-3/4 a sec! and then its about 200-300 to get installed.
and then move to heads/cam since youve already done LTs. stg heads from percison is 1k and a good cam is a couple hundred! Anywhere in there, better if done moding, Id get a custom tune to take full advantage of all your newly earned power! with a tune and all that done you could see a 10-50 hp or tq diff!!

just my 2 cents!
best of luck and dont take my bowtie 1.6 rrs hahaha
jk
best of luck man
your friend
Sean
Metallurgist in disguise.

 

I guess anything is possible. I did everything I could to the TPI motor in my 85' and it still only ran mid 13's without head work. Now with my new motor I guess I'm only making 425hp/425ft/lbs flywheel but it will run low to mid 12's all day long on bald street tires. I think that if the TPI motors made that much hp and 390 torque that they would run more than mid 13's. If your going to port the heads you should put a decent cam in it. Keep us updated on how it runs after the mods.

 

from what forum members say....they say that 3.73's are too much gear for a L-98 stick car....

 

3.73 is way too much gear for a stock TPI car.

 

i think if i get the heads, and intake done, i might be able to get away with a 3.54 gear?