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this is the car i was talking about and it's pristene from the looks of it. only problem is these cars are VERY expensive to mod and hard to find parts for but well worth it in the long run. 415 strokers are putting down 600 rwhp and shifting past 9k rpm this car will NOT stick around long at this price!
I have a 1990 ZR1 for sale. It has 21,000 miles, red exterior, black leather inside. It has chrome 94/95 style ZR1 wheels with new GSD3 Eagle F1 tires. The car also has both roof panels, the smoked glass and the painted top. The car is in great condition and located in Orlando, FL. The car is stock, no engine modifications, no exhaust kits, no screwing around, and always garaged. I'm asking $22,000, if anyone is interested I can be reached at h20polo559@aol.com. I can email pictures if anyone wants to see it.
hehe, well my ultimate goal was to be faster than most cars on the street that are legally driveable. I dont race on the streets but i feel its nice to have. Say 400-450 hp (not to the wheels) but something compareable to maybe a viper. How much hp could i get for the 10-12k? (Including price for a car) and which year would it be?
450hp on a budget of 10-12K with car cost is going to be tough to do.
I say that because there are alot of hidden expenses that most people don't think about up front.
for one thing the rest of the car has to be up to the job of handling the new power, trannie, U-joints, radiator/water pump and other things can come into play. some things have to be customized too you'll need computer tuning for sure to make 450hp.
a older and higher milage vette may cost less at first but maintainance items add up too (4 wheel bearings will set you back $600+) things like tires, brakes, steering rack and ball joints ect. get expensive.
buying the best vette you can afford is always a good idea in the long run. (remember the old comercial? "pay me now or pay me later")
a good option is to look for a used Lingenfelter car, all the work is already done mod wise, all you have to do is maintainance.
RJ
There is a 1990 I think, it's listed in the trade express here in S.B. California for about 17K. I believe 90K.mi. Thats the cheapest ZR I've seen. I don't know where you are located, but would be worth shipping it, cars here tend to be very clean.
BTW I started Autocrossing 01 with stock 86, I hated being beat up by all the other vettes, so $30K later it's getting fast/furious. The thing is I'm totally setup for AX. I kept the TPI because the Torque is way cool.
But I just rebuilt the motor with Trick Flow cam/heads (Street Bracket Kit) Total motor Balanced, installed $6000. The 700R4 tranny blew on my 2nd. run. The new tranny is in=$2600, also, I could beat the ZR before the new motor!
Ok then well, if getting 400hp with 10k would be difficult what would be the most id be able to get w/ 10k including the cost of car, or is it best if i get a 1996 LT-4 and wait to do performance later?
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
The quickest, easiest, most dependable way to horsepower is to buy it from GM. This would mean the LT-series cars. It also means, in general, that you will pay more for it at the outset.
It's your priorities, man.
Larry
Ok then well, if getting 400hp with 10k would be difficult what would be the most id be able to get w/ 10k including the cost of car, or is it best if i get a 1996 LT-4 and wait to do performance later?
your not gonna get an LT4 car for 10k without being high milage and beat up on.
looks like for 10k your options are a low milage 50k and under L98 car or a high milage 50k and up LT1 car
not trying to burst your bubble but i traded a 95 LT1 car with 40k in miles for my aunt and got 16.5k for it in dead of summer.
the deals are out there if you have time to look and look and look for what you want even on here some people think their vettes are worth way more than what they actually are.....including me thats while i'll never sell it and only add to the stable next year
thanks for all the help guys i think im gonna go with buying the car first and do performance later, im gonna check out auto auctions in my area then call a couple places around here see whats the going rate...
The only real consideration is the interior, and if you like stick - getting the ZF.
If you're after an auto and don't care about the interior - shop by price. If you have a preference for the interior design - then limitations start up. With the stick - even more limitations.
this is real, i want a stick, but auto would be fine. so im not too picky, so if i get a stick your saying its best to get a zf huh? (im researching everything) thanks
For your price range, Try an L98 on. These are not HP cars but make great torque! That' what gets ya moving. Torque is much cheaper to build than horsepower, and the car is set up for it with its gearing (2.59,3.07,etc)It doesnt take much at all to get these cars to run a respectable time on a stock longblock. Try to place your build emphasis on enhancing what is already there. Who cares if it makes 300 hp when youre done? If you're making enough torque w/ the right gear, your already down the road while the HP guys trying to get traction with his
overcammed, overgeared ego motor? Plus you arent spinning your motor high, making it reliable and longer lasting. Check out what some of the guys here have done with theirs. You'll be surprised!
For your price range, Try an L98 on. These are not HP cars but make great torque! That' what gets ya moving. Torque is much cheaper to build than horsepower, and the car is set up for it with its gearing (2.59,3.07,etc)It doesnt take much at all to get these cars to run a respectable time on a stock longblock. Try to place your build emphasis on enhancing what is already there. Who cares if it makes 300 hp when youre done? If you're making enough torque w/ the right gear, your already down the road while the HP guys trying to get traction with his
overcammed, overgeared ego motor? Plus you arent spinning your motor high, making it reliable and longer lasting. Check out what some of the guys here have done with theirs. You'll be surprised!
well said my car on the 2.59 gearset stays right in the torque curve all the way thru OD
see my car domain down below in my sig to see how many mods i have, which by far isn't much and the car should be running high 12's once i figure a few more things out. getting codes and running real rich
my point is, with a handful of mods and some tuning, the L98 cars can run with stock C5's from a dig or a roll. from a dig it's ugly. 2+ cars out of the hole and i can hold it all the way upto 130 mph.
im gonna go to my local dealers and try out a couple of vettes... thats probably the best way to decide heh. since i drive a turbocharged family sedan (i get maybe 200 rwhp) a stock vette is more than likely to fullfill all my wants for now, until the need to speed picks up lol. vette kill forum is pretty coo.
im gonna be trying, my grandpa and his mechanics will more than likely be walking me through most of the things though, and any big things ill probably take to get done at a speed shop or something (if its something that requires me to do that, it wont be anytime soon~ lol) im gonna be doing basics like headers exhaust to begin with.... and go on from there