I know, in today's mind-set of the latest and greatest technology, re-ringing and rolling out the main bearings sounds about as foreign as cranking the engine over with a handel in front of the radiator, but I remember doint it to my buddy's 52 Chevy when I was in high school.
Of course that was in the early 60's. It was a fairly common practise in that era. I have an up-comming long distance move, the onset of winter and no way to completely pull my engine, as some of the obsicals preventing me from switching out to a new super-duper hi-tech mill. Plus, I plan to build my dream engine next summer or fall and only need to get by until then.

I find myself in a strange place where it might make sence to do that (re-ring, re-bearing) to my vette and was wondering if anyone has heard of it beinging done lately. Successfully?

I have an 87 L98 with about 105,000 miles on it. No smoke clouds, but my chrome tail pipe extensions suit up in a week or less after cleaning them, so I know I'm loosing (burning) oil. Due to this and other things,
I've pertty much resolved to do a valve job, but was thinking, I might just have the time, while the heads or off, to ream the ridges, pull the pistons, hone the cylinders, roll in new main bearings, then replace the pistons with new rings and rod bearings.

Any experiences or advice would be appreciated. Like what kind of rings would be best suited for this type of repair.

 

I've done it several times "in the past". It's never been a big deal to me, as long as I've had a place to do the work. Either pulling the engine-or doing it while in the car-not to difficult if you pull the heads and can get it up in the air for working underneath. While the heads are being redone-pulling the rods and pistons out is a piece of cake-removing the ridge and honning the cylinders is also easy-take care in examining the rod and main bearings-cause conditon of crank journals is the key. Also when reinstalling rods-make sure you put rubber hose over the rod bolts so as not to damage the crank. As far as rings and bearings-no preference.Replacing the timing chain should also be done. This isn't near as desirable as a total rebuild-it's just something I used to do because of budget restraints-or like you-planning a near future engine build. It's fairly cheap-but labor intensive. Good luck.

 

I did a re-ring for a local guy last year. He had a 73. The motor was rebuilt and the rings never seated properly. Had no problem doing it with the motor in the car. It will be helpful to have a second set of hands when it comes time to reinstall the pistons/rods.

100k isn't that many miles. Are you sure the rings are bad? It would stink to do all that work over a few bad valve seals.

 

Thank You Gentelmen. Both Responses Are On Target And Appreciated.

 

Why??? Is that oil residue, or soot from a rich mixture, on your chrome tail pipe extensions? What is your dipstick telling you? Is it that bad? Does it burn a quart of oil in 500 miles, or less? Or are you just itching to work on it? If you are as close as you said, to the dream engine, why screw with it? Otherwise, all the above is good advice...for a patch job.

RACE ON!!!

 

It's not that ancient, just ask anyone who owns a C5, plenty of them have been reringed recently.

 

GOOD POINT CFI-EFI. THE OIL CONSUMPTION BY ITSELF ISN'T A BIG DEAL. ONE THING HAS LEAD TO ANOTHER. I WAS GETTING MY THROTTLE BODY BORED OUT TO 52MM AND INSTALLING AN ADJUSTABLE FUEL REG. AN AQUAINTENCE OFFERED ME A SET OF 113 HEADS SO I THOUGHT, WHILE I WAS THIS FAR I WOULD GET A VALVE GUIDE $ SEAL JOB. NOW THAT THE HEADS OR OFF......

 

No need to YELL. The TB and the AFPR are easy to and understandable, But I would have saved the "heavy work" like the heads for the new engine. Even if you already have the heads off, is there a good reason to spend the time and money???

For reference: My 160,000 mile, factory original, Crossfire, long block burns a quart of oil every 200 miles. I KNOW it's shot, but I don't see the point in spending money on patch jobs. It NEEDS the full treatment. Meanwhile, it keeps running new, "personal bests".

RACE ON!!!

 

hmm... a two-stroke L98, interesting

 

I have done it many time in a 2.2 turbo. New bearings and rings and you are good for awhile in one of those.

 

Sure! I've redone my bearings and then last year even had to rehone one cylinder wall with the engine in the block when I destroyed 1 piston.

 

First, it's an L83. Second, it only LOOKS like a two stroke. And third, I get a subsidy from the mosquito abatement district. Take THAT, smartypants!

RACE ON!!!

 

Modern engines with modern oils last a long time. Rings and bores are usually in good shape after many more miles than 105,000. Black soot in the tailpipe is probably not due to bad rings. High oil consumption is a possible indication of bad rings but intake valve guides or leaks are a more likely causes.

 

With most that has been said. Bores and rings are most likely OK. Valve guides are the most likely source of oil consumption. If going with new rings, I like the ones from GM as they seat well rather quickly. Also with that many miles you can probably use .001 or .002 oversize bearings. Mic your journals to be sure and your oil pressure will be good too. As someone already stated, a timing chain change is probably needed. No need to get an exotic one, just a stock replacement will last fine till you realize your dream engine. Good luck!

 

Is the black residue that is inside your exhaust tips like black powder or is it black & oily? If it is like a black powder, that would indicate fuel residue. If it is black & oily, it is from some oil comsumption. The fuel residue may can be helped ,but I would not worry about it if you are going to rebuild shortly. The black oily residue , on the other hand, may be an easy fix. Does the engine smoke on start up, then go away? This is a good indication that it is the valve stem seals. If your engine is smoking from start up and continues, it's probably the rings. I would recomend you have a compression test and a leak down test done at this point. Do a little testing before you start tearing the engine apart.
As far as re-ringing and bearings, I don't see a problem, other than it's
harder than if the engine were out of the car.
Let me know what you find.

 

Thanks guys, for all the excelent help. I guess, while I understand re-ringing is an OK thing, since my exhaust is of the "Black-Oily" verity, I will probably forgo that job and, for now, settle for new valve guides and a valve job. My friends promissed 113 heads have not materialised and it has been a month or more since he offered them to me so I assume he has reconsidered his generocity. I'm wondering weather it might be worth it to buy some used 113 heads and have them rebuilt? What should I expect to pay for used 113 heads? I guess the 1987 aluminum heads I have (which are not 113 castings) are not as desirable. I understand they have an inferior exhaust side or something like that.

 

2 words of advice 'chrome rings'

 

Good advice for a new engine or rebuild, but... Back the olden daze when re-ringing was common, Chrome rings weren't prefered for re-ringing because they didn't wear into the already used cylinder bores as well as non-chrome rings.

Any decent ring, chrome or not, should outlast what's left of his cylinder bores.