Well finally got the 383 in and running and it sounds just plain nasty. I don’t know how many of you are running LT headers without cats and Magna Flows but it sounds awesome. I got it started about two days ago but had a problem with the clutch that I think we now have corrected. I had a problem with a code 43 that took ½ of the night untill I figured out GM gave me the wrong Knock sensors, after getting another set (of the correct ones this time) the code is gone and the motor runs great. I pulled the exhaust back down to have some final work done and should have it reinstalled tomorrow and then I will change the oil and take it for its first test ride. I have a base program done for my set up and would like to break the motor/clutch in before the final dyno tune. Specs on the Motor are as follows:
Block: LT1 .030 over with splayed mains

Rotating assy. Scat 4340 3.75 crank, Scat Pro line 4340 6’’ H-beam rods, SRP forged pistons, and Fidenza aluminum FW. (LT4 HD timing set)

Heads/Valve train AFR 195 comp ported by More performance W/ Ferrea valves, titanium retainers Comp springs and Comp Pro Magnum 1/6 R/Rs W/guide plates and hardened pushrods.

Intake: LT4, ported by More performance and bored for 58mm TB

Cam: CC 306 (Small Base circle)

TB/Injectors: Holley 58mm TB / FMS 36# injectors

Exhaust: Stainless works LT headers, no cats and Magna Flow mufflers.

Ignition: Delteq

Keeping it cool: Be cool radiator and Meziere HD electric WP

 

nice... very nice!!!!

I have heard LT's with Magnaflows. Wow. Sounds like a big block!

 

Very nice. would love to hear some exhaust notes!

Who's tuning it?

 

More Performance or Carolina Auto Masters

 

cant wait for Dyno info!

 

 

Congrats!

 

Wow, congrats!

 

That's awesome. I'm thinking about going this route in the near future if my engine doesn't let go before then. I'd basically like a setup similar to yours.

Did you do all the assembly work yourself? How much was the parts cost + block machine work, if you don't mind me asking?

 

Yes I did al the assy my self but did have a freind help with clearing the block.
Block/Machine work (Including splaying the mains) $600 plus $120 for ballancing
The rotating assy was $1500 Crank, Rods and pistons
Heads $3000 (Comp porting included)
LT4 intake $260 plus $150 for porting
Single Mass w/fidenza $800 (Dont remember exactly but it is close)
Comp Rockers $260
Rebuild kit (Gaskets, oil pump, ARP head blots, Lifters, ect..) $500
Cam $280
Thats the big stuff I can remember but am geting a bit dizzy looking at the cost of this thing and have no desire to add it all up for a total

 

more pic's

 

I'm just wondering if I should attempt the engine assembly myself. I've never assembled an engine before, but my brother has. He's just hesitant to do it in my garage. I'm just talking about bolting stuff together here. I would definitely have the machine work done at a reputable shop.

From your experience, should a newb such as myself even attempt an engine build in the garage, or pay a pro to do it?

 

It’s hard to say without knowing how much of a perfectionist you are. Building a motor is not rocket science but there is science involved (Deck clearance, Cam ect..) You can find a local builder with a good reputation to do the motor if that’s the direction you want to go (Ask your local machinist should be $400-500.) I build my motors because I am a bit of a control freak and very much a perfectionist and just feel better knowing that every bolt was triple checked for TQ. If you are good with a wrench, can read a book, and are not afraid to ask questions then you can probably build it yourself. Just don’t take short cuts and know that you will assemble most of the motor at least two or three times. You will need to install the crank, Rods, Heads, and valve train a couple of times because of checking clearances. Buy a good torque wrench, Helm manual and possibly one of these How to build an LT1 and you should be good to go. I would have the machine shop perform any clearance you may need unless you are comfortable with grinding on your block and know exactly what to take out.

 

Well, I am a perfectionist, but my main goal in building the engine would be to put it together correctly the first time so it wouldn't self-destruct in the first 500 miles. I've always heard that the area you build the engine in has to be spotless or you could get some dirt or grit stuck in the bearings and oil starve the rotating assembly on startup. I mean, I can clean the garage, but it's not going to be the same as a dedicated "engine room".

Don't get me wrong, I'd love to just jump in head first and start bolting stuff together, but because of the amount of work involved in pulling and reinstalling the engine, not to mention the significant cost in components, I'd want to make triple sure that it had been assembled correctly.