Auto to 6-Speed part 2
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Auto to 6-Speed part 2
Finally received the Richmond Friday evening. I test fit all of the clutch components to the transmission Saturday morning, and then installed the clutch and pressure plate to the flywheel followed by the bell housing.
I had to call it a day at around 9:00am to help a friend with his house; however I did find time to drill the c-beam for the driveshaft loop.
Sunday I actually installed the transmission, c-beam, rotozipped the floor, and assembled and tested the hydraulic clutch components.
So far im pleased with how things are going together and the overall fit and finish.
I don’t think the driveshaft is going to have to be shortened. It’ll be dropped off at the machine shop today for new Spicer U-joins and to have the new slip yoke installed.
Ill keep ya posted on the progress.
I had to call it a day at around 9:00am to help a friend with his house; however I did find time to drill the c-beam for the driveshaft loop.
Sunday I actually installed the transmission, c-beam, rotozipped the floor, and assembled and tested the hydraulic clutch components.
So far im pleased with how things are going together and the overall fit and finish.
I don’t think the driveshaft is going to have to be shortened. It’ll be dropped off at the machine shop today for new Spicer U-joins and to have the new slip yoke installed.
Ill keep ya posted on the progress.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,212
Likes: 10
From: Sun City West Az
When you are done,I'll buy you a first class round trip air plane ticket to Calif. so you can do mine too.
Are you going to reglass the tunnel? Keep the pics coming..
Are you going to reglass the tunnel? Keep the pics coming..
Last edited by ittlfly; Nov 15, 2004 at 05:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by ittlfly
Are you going to reglass the tunnel? Keep the pics coming..
Unfortunately the Richmond tail housing doesn’t use the two long bolts that hold the front of the c-beam in place; they use a total of four small bolts. Two on the top and two on the bottom.
Now the only problem with that are the access restrictions to the top of the front of the c-beam.
So far ive only been able to access them from the inside of the car, which means the shifter, has to be removed and they are then accessed from the driver’s compartment thru the hole.
The only other BIG pain ive had to deal with was the clutch master cylinder. I used the 84-88 clutch master cylinder, and as everyone knows those year vetts didn’t have the computer mounted above the battery, so I had to trim the ECM bracket in order to fit the older clutch master cylinder in place.
I don’t feel the work is difficult or out of many people scope of ability, but It’s been an extremely time consuming job that take quite a bit of patience.
One obstacle I wasn’t ready for was having the key stuck in the ignition because the auto park cable is now missing and without it won’t allow the key to turn fully back to remove it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,150
Likes: 1
From: Carlsbad, CA CA
Originally Posted by IBEAM700
I don’t feel the work is difficult or out of many people scope of ability, but It’s been an extremely time consuming job that take quite a bit of patience.
One obstacle I wasn’t ready for was having the key stuck in the ignition because the auto park cable is now missing and without it won’t allow the key to turn fully back to remove it.
One obstacle I wasn’t ready for was having the key stuck in the ignition because the auto park cable is now missing and without it won’t allow the key to turn fully back to remove it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by zelement
How did you get the key out? Nice work! Keep them coming!!!
Ill just have to figure out a way to modify until I can find time to pull apart the internals of the column.
I have the dreaded diagonal movement of the tilt column, so I need to go into it to rebuild the tilt mechanism anyway.
The only downside is the replacement part gmpartsdirect.com is something like 300 dollars
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Had new the new slip yoke installed on the driveshaft Monday along with new Spicer
U-Joints. Installed it last night, and found out the drive shaft is to SHORT.
Now I have to take it off tomorrow and see if I can have a new driveshaft made before Thanksgiving
U-Joints. Installed it last night, and found out the drive shaft is to SHORT.
Now I have to take it off tomorrow and see if I can have a new driveshaft made before Thanksgiving
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Originally Posted by IBEAM700
Oh it’s not a big deal. There is a small pin located on the top of the staring column that needs to be held in in order to remove the key.
Ill just have to figure out a way to modify until I can find time to pull apart the internals of the column.
I have the dreaded diagonal movement of the tilt column, so I need to go into it to rebuild the tilt mechanism anyway.
The only downside is the replacement part gmpartsdirect.com is something like 300 dollars
Ill just have to figure out a way to modify until I can find time to pull apart the internals of the column.
I have the dreaded diagonal movement of the tilt column, so I need to go into it to rebuild the tilt mechanism anyway.
The only downside is the replacement part gmpartsdirect.com is something like 300 dollars
As for the pin... get an ignition from a 6spd. It has a button that will release the latch you are refering too. You can transfer your tumbler to the switch.
Looks like a great project!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Thanx for the info Bogus. I’ve read about the pin replacement before. I even purchased the pin puller tool, but I believe my problem is deeper than that.
If memory serves it’s the tilt mechanism cage that’s damaged, so even new pins wouldn’t help. It’s that cheap pot metal they make the cage out of that’s the problem.
The price I was quoting was for that entire cage assembly, but you can bet ill do a thorough inspection to make 100% sure that the problem before I go spending the BIG $$$
Oh, and by the way I found out my driveshaft shop is open for 4 hours tomorrow (Saturday) I doubt they’ll be able to make it the same day, but should have it ready by Monday evening.
Now I just have to spend the rest of the evening dropping the exhaust system and removing the driveshaft…. Again
If memory serves it’s the tilt mechanism cage that’s damaged, so even new pins wouldn’t help. It’s that cheap pot metal they make the cage out of that’s the problem.
The price I was quoting was for that entire cage assembly, but you can bet ill do a thorough inspection to make 100% sure that the problem before I go spending the BIG $$$
Oh, and by the way I found out my driveshaft shop is open for 4 hours tomorrow (Saturday) I doubt they’ll be able to make it the same day, but should have it ready by Monday evening.
Now I just have to spend the rest of the evening dropping the exhaust system and removing the driveshaft…. Again
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Glad I could help...but since the cage is busted, oops... that blows. big time.
you might be better off with a used column... just a thought.
cool news about the driveshaft shop!! I hope they can fix this up QUICK!!!
you might be better off with a used column... just a thought.
cool news about the driveshaft shop!! I hope they can fix this up QUICK!!!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by loiq
I'm jealous! I've wanted one of those Richmond six-speeds since they came out.
Then i realized i had a driveline vibration and the driveshaft would have to come back out and i was like
Race Director
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 12,597
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From: Bartlett Illinois
Cool Deal ont he trans.. What are you doing about the chip in the ECM? the Auto stuff needs to be removed..
On another subject, Do you have pictures of your current dash as well?? I have not installed the dash pad from you yet. I have been meaning to call the local yard to get a couple pieces for it first
On another subject, Do you have pictures of your current dash as well??
I have not installed the dash pad from you yet. I have been meaning to call the local yard to get a couple pieces for it first
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
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From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Hi Jeff 
If you let me know exactly what areas of the dash you need pictures of ill do my best to get them too ya.
I had the driveshaft made today and reassembled the entire car. Still Problems…
The Trans grinds going into 6th and sounds like a box of rocks while it’s in 6th. Every other gear is fine. Now when I pull the Trans into 6th real slow and easy it won’t grind, but still sounds like rocks rolling around in there.
I’m also getting a pop/grind, from what I can tell it's a drive line sound. I still need to get the car back up in the air and inspect. Now the drive line doesn’t make this sound under the same conditions all the time.
Example, I shift into second, hit the gas and I get a pop/grind. Then ill shift thru all gears three or four times with no problems, then all of a sudden in third or fourth it’ll do it again. Strange huh.
I think I may have a bad u-joint in the new drive shaft.
Other than that I really like the Richmond. It does sounds like a dump truck transmission, but I was expecting that with the cut on the gears.
If you let me know exactly what areas of the dash you need pictures of ill do my best to get them too ya.
I had the driveshaft made today and reassembled the entire car. Still Problems…
The Trans grinds going into 6th and sounds like a box of rocks while it’s in 6th. Every other gear is fine. Now when I pull the Trans into 6th real slow and easy it won’t grind, but still sounds like rocks rolling around in there.
I’m also getting a pop/grind, from what I can tell it's a drive line sound. I still need to get the car back up in the air and inspect. Now the drive line doesn’t make this sound under the same conditions all the time.
Example, I shift into second, hit the gas and I get a pop/grind. Then ill shift thru all gears three or four times with no problems, then all of a sudden in third or fourth it’ll do it again. Strange huh.
I think I may have a bad u-joint in the new drive shaft.
Other than that I really like the Richmond. It does sounds like a dump truck transmission, but I was expecting that with the cut on the gears.