C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Engine Removal

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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 10:24 AM
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Default Engine Removal

Anyone know where I can find a step by step for engine removal. My service manual does not have one. Thanks
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 11:31 AM
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What service manual is that?
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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I don't consider myself any bit of a mechanic but the first time I pulled my Vette engine went pretty well just by taking my time and doing things as they looked like they should be done. I think the key is to just do it slowly and don't set any lofty goals like "I'm gonna have this engine out by lunch time." Good luck.

Last edited by Bob86ZZ4; Nov 29, 2004 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 12:36 PM
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Take a lot of pictures, buy lots of ziploc bags, and plenty of labels to label everything. I've not done it yet, but people have told me that all the plugs only plug one way so there is no way to mix anything up, but I would label anyway to be safe.

SOme folks have removed their engines without removing the hood, but I believe you would have to disconnect the trans first.

Everytime I've removed an engine from a car I left the tranny attached.
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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My method is a bit unusual, but works for me. I do not remove the hood or trans. I pull the heads off in the engine bay. This allows access to the trans bellhousing bolts. It eliminates the need to pull exhaust,trans,windhield wiper motor, etc. I pluck the short block from the pass side after removing the pass front wheel.When the new block is installed I leave the dr side motor mount off. After I set the block on pass mount I reposition chain and lift dr side and put mount on. Sounds strange but works well.When you pull a motor the "normal" way I have no room to store all the components(especially the hood).
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 04:53 PM
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Corvette Kid, it's the GM Service Manual. It goes into the breakdown of the engine but does not get into removing the engine itself (section 6??)

Since I got screwed last time, I have decided to do it myself and I'll only have myself to blame. I have found what I believe is a good machine shop in VA. He will put together the engine and dyno it so I know it's making the HP I am paying for and it's not burning oil etc. etc..
I just haven't decided which set up I am going to go with. It sounds like I'll have plenty of time to think about it.

I want to check the tranny too as it is making some whiny noises and getting worse so I figure I will disconnect the tranny then pull the engine. I am concerned about the top bellhousing bolts. If I have the driveshaft out, can I take out the distributor and rotate the engine enough to get to them?
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jerkyboy
I want to check the tranny too as it is making some whiny noises and getting worse so I figure I will disconnect the tranny then pull the engine. I am concerned about the top bellhousing bolts. If I have the driveshaft out, can I take out the distributor and rotate the engine enough to get to them?
Do you mean lower the tranny down? If yes, then that will work. You need a 9/16 flex socket on the end of a very long extension and working from underneath, it will make short work of the bellhousing bolts. That's what I used. Goodluck
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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Buy a Haynes manual, it has a step-by-step guide. When I pulled mine, I disconnected the trans (I was putting in a new ROD 6 spd anyway) and I pulled the motor out over the passenger side WITHOUT removing the hood. It was gravy!
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
My method is a bit unusual, but works for me. I do not remove the hood or trans. I pull the heads off in the engine bay. This allows access to the trans bellhousing bolts. It eliminates the need to pull exhaust,trans,windhield wiper motor, etc. I pluck the short block from the pass side after removing the pass front wheel.When the new block is installed I leave the dr side motor mount off. After I set the block on pass mount I reposition chain and lift dr side and put mount on. Sounds strange but works well.When you pull a motor the "normal" way I have no room to store all the components(especially the hood).
I think this is an excellent idea!
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 07:26 PM
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Try this link also...

http://www.diabolicalperformance.com/427swapsteps.html
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 07:35 PM
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Great info!!!

Steven
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 10:46 PM
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ha! Thanks Chris, that's exactly what I was looking for!
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
My method is a bit unusual, but works for me. I do not remove the hood or trans. I pull the heads off in the engine bay. This allows access to the trans bellhousing bolts. It eliminates the need to pull exhaust,trans,windhield wiper motor, etc. I pluck the short block from the pass side after removing the pass front wheel.When the new block is installed I leave the dr side motor mount off. After I set the block on pass mount I reposition chain and lift dr side and put mount on. Sounds strange but works well.When you pull a motor the "normal" way I have no room to store all the components(especially the hood).
I've had mine out five or six times and have evolved to this method. No need to pull the hood or radiator. I do pull both front wheels, your back will thank you for it. Pull the crank pulley and lay the compressor and powersteering pump to the side and hold them out of the way with bungee cords. I take both motor mounts loose from the engine to allow the engine to just slide forward, then just lift straight up. Oh, get the whole car up on stands so you can get under it and support the tranny with a jack.
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