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i think i will get the tpis long tube headers and the front y-pipe. i know they are 13/4 headers and next winter i will put in a 383 or 396 so i am going to get the bigger headers now. they cost $750 coated and $600 painted.
1. should i pay the extra $150 for the coating?
2.how hard is it to install them will i have to remove anything else?
3. any little secrets would be helpful.
4. should i look at any other brands? and why?
thanks jeff
edit car is a 91 auto only mods is magnaflow catback
what brand is the easiest install?
I too have been considering the TPIS headers, mainly because they come with built in standoffs for easy attachment of accessories, like the stock shorties.
If you are funning a single cat you might consider getting the headers uncoated and then sending out both headers and Y for ceramic coating in/out. The coating is the only way to go. But with a 383 I would think about running true duals as a single can likely won't flow enough to handle the power without losses.
I've read here that you will need to repositions the fuel lines a little forward where they come up over the front frame rail.
A lot of the guys seem to use Hooker's for the cost savings.
In reading through some TPIS comments in the archives...
They are supposed to fit really well, and should go on as 'easy' as any header...
I would get them coated. If you are gonna spend that much money on headers, you should guarentee they'll last by coating them...
You don't say what year you have, so I'm not sure what if anything you'll need to remove
I just finished up the TPIS install and was pretty disapointed with the overall project. I am no stranger to small block Chevys or Corvettes and have all the tools and eqipment I need to get the job done. I found their instructions to be poor at best and leave an awful lot to the owner to figure out. I also purchased their exhaust at the same time, thinking the whole package would be a piece of cake. WRONG! I got to kicking myself thinking that it was me, but by coincidence, I had two firends who purchased DynoMax systems for their C5's and asked my help in doing their installs. Piece of cake. Their was no comparison in quality and instructions between the two.
The TPIS system may be the best out there, but there isn't much to compare it to and believe me, it is lacking.
I am doing a bunch of other things to the C4 to get ready for next season at the track, and have not had a chance to drive it since the install. I ran a base line dyno before anything else was done and turned 212RWHP. It will be interesting to see where we are with the headers and a few other minor modificaitons. Will report here when we vist the dyno next.
Hooker's been making headers a long time and they are a bit less than the TPIS. I also like that they are flange fit and not slip fit. I think you will also have to buy a new EGR pipe to use the TPIS headers - if you use the 2149s.
I disagrea on purchasing them coated. Buy them uncoated and have them sent out and coated inside & out including the Y pipe. I originally purchased them coated about 2 years ago and this past year I sent them out for a proper inside and out coating The difference in heat disapation is unbelievable. Prior to my sending them out the heat would melt the undercoating. Now they cool quickly and no problems with the undercoating.
Hi.
I have an 85 and bought the TPIS headers. I have the coated ones and am very happy with that. What was an advantage with the headers was that I could use all the stock screws and bolts except one that I had to grind down a bit to clear one of the primaries. There are a good outlet for an EGR tube and also prepared for the O2 sensors. I use a heated one as the are place further away from the heads than the stock.. There is one thing you have to remember that the air tube to the cat has to be changed as the stock one does not fit. . Follow the instructions for the installations on their internet site.. They are simple but the recommendations they give save you a lot of trouble.
Yes one thing I had to do was to grind off one millimeter of the flange of the alternator support at the headers so that it did not touch the primary tube. That done in half a minute. I have the stock crap heads on my car. They are ported, but after I installed the headers the average fuel consumption fell somewhat. ialso have another more progressive cam.
I just finished up the TPIS install and was pretty disapointed with the overall project. I am no stranger to small block Chevys or Corvettes and have all the tools and eqipment I need to get the job done. I found their instructions to be poor at best and leave an awful lot to the owner to figure out. I also purchased their exhaust at the same time, thinking the whole package would be a piece of cake. WRONG! I got to kicking myself thinking that it was me, but by coincidence, I had two firends who purchased DynoMax systems for their C5's and asked my help in doing their installs. Piece of cake. Their was no comparison in quality and instructions between the two.
The TPIS system may be the best out there, but there isn't much to compare it to and believe me, it is lacking.
I am doing a bunch of other things to the C4 to get ready for next season at the track, and have not had a chance to drive it since the install. I ran a base line dyno before anything else was done and turned 212RWHP. It will be interesting to see where we are with the headers and a few other minor modificaitons. Will report here when we vist the dyno next.
i bought my set used and they installed pretty easy. didn't use no directions either.
i got an 87 Vette that was Bone Virgin Stock when i got her. the list of mods isn't much but i think the headers made the difference.
cut lid K&N filter, descreened MAF, TB Bypass, air foil, Accel super coil with 12 degres advance timing, no mufflers and the car pulled 245 rwhp and 350 rwtq while running over 220 degrees on the dyno run and blowing the EGR connection on #8 cylinder
[QUOTE=65Z01]I too have been considering the TPIS headers, mainly because they come with built in standoffs for easy attachment of accessories, like the stock shorties.
Im wanting a set of these also. Thats 3 of us, any way we could get a group purchase going ? Ive seen someone from TPIS post on here but don't remember who.
I have a 85 with a 406 afr heads purchased mine used with the ceramic coating install was to easy I had to make a 4 bolt flange because they came off of a 90 that had a slip in cat.
I disagrea on purchasing them coated. Buy them uncoated and have them sent out and coated inside & out including the Y pipe. I originally purchased them coated about 2 years ago and this past year I sent them out for a proper inside and out coating The difference in heat disapation is unbelievable. Prior to my sending them out the heat would melt the undercoating. Now they cool quickly and no problems with the undercoating.
Pay for the coating once and do them right!!!
They use cheap thin non inside and out coatings!
I coat inside and out, clean and prep the surface, and give you a 3 yr warranty on new headers and a lifetime limited rust warrenty!!!!
all thise for $188 and return ship! jet hott charges 279 plus ship!
If you are going to do it do it right! Don't buy a cheap coating and in 2 yrs have to get me to redo it and you spent $150 for no reason on thye origional coating!
I purchased the coated headers w/"Y" pipe and the Random Tech. Cat converter. My car is a 1987 and I ordered the headers with emmisions provisions.
I was really supprised at how well they fit, and the relative ease with which they went on. They look great and performance change was noticable. (No dino verification).
The coating is warrented for 3years and says they will recoat them one time (if ever necessary).
The hardware which came with the headers was first rate.
I discovered one little fact that I like. The threaded holes in the head, where the stock spark plug loom brackets bolt to the side of the heads, is covered by the header flange making them inaccessable. TPiS has, therefore, drilled and taped the header flange to the same configuration so that the stock pieces can be bolted to them in almost the same locations they were orginally installed. In the instructions, they tell you that in order to use these stock looms in the header holes, you must shorten the screws so that they don't bottom out. I discovered by accident that a set of chrome timing chain cover screws I found at a local parts store fit perfically.