C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Please post your alignment specs and intended purpose

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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:08 PM
  #1  
Nathan Plemons's Avatar
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Default Please post your alignment specs and intended purpose

The title pretty much says it all. I'm going to be doing the poly bushing kit on my car during the Christmas break. After that I'm going to have an alignment done before I have to order new tires. It turns out that a friend of mine's shop is finally going to be getting a very nice new laser alignment setup.

Since he's a friend he'll gladly align the car to whatever specs I want. I figured that the stock specs are probably a little conservative, others have mentioned that they have custom specs. I'm looking for aggressive handling while maintaining a pretty steady ride. I don't want it to really dart left to right if at all possible. Long tire wear is a must too.

Several people have said they have good alignment specs that provide improved handling over stock while still providing even tire wear. Let's hear them please.

Thanks guys.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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-1.75* camber front and rear

zero tow front

1/8" toe in per side, rear

car is lowered, use Kumho MX 275's front and rear on stock wheels, ES master kit poly bushings. revalved FX3 shocks with Doug Rippie poly bushings, stock sways and stock sway bushings, stock springs.

intended use: racetrack

street manners: can be a little darty and follow the ruts on poor roads highways, but it's a minor annoyance. It sticks to the curves enough to get me thrown in jail, or worse. Highway off/on ramps can be taken faster then my nerve will allow.

race track: pleasently surprised. ran 2:30's or so at Watkins Glen, first time on any race track. I let an experienced (with porsches) friend of mine take it out one session, and he was turning low 2:20's.

my settings may be a tad too aggresive if you're not going to take it out on a race track.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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Unfortunately I don't have a race track to drive on
Ultimately I'm looking for aggressive street.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 02:00 PM
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Hehe, don't know what mine are, but it gallops around ruts and cracked pavement like a rabid horse on acid... Tires are wearing unevenly in the back too... So yeah, keep 'em coming, I need an aligment too
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 02:12 PM
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Hmmm, don't have the spec sheet with me that Larry gave me when he did mine. I wanted something close to autocross specs but still streetable.

I think he maxed out the caster, negative camber in front & back, and a touch of toe in (more in the back).

For auto-x most people run toe-out in front, but it makes for a skittish car.

It highways very well and eats up tight turns, oversteer has been reduced a lot. I haven't raced it yet, that'll have to wait until spring.

If you want exacts IM me and I'll get em tonight.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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For the street I wouldn't go with more then 1 deg of camber.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 03:54 PM
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I recently had a set of GY Eagles installed and a stock 4-wheel alignment. Last weekend I was cruzin the twisties with other Vettes and am very pleased with handling and I even have stock sway bar bushings. Also, hookup along with tire life are the most important parameters for my application.

Agressive handling alignment and long tire life are at opposite ends of the spectrum. If you get enough camber to really help cornering you will also get tire wear and maybe lose a little hookup too.

I think that with stock alignment and poly sway bushings you will have nicely improved cornering properties. Also you can trim handling a little through tire pressure variation.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 04:24 PM
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I use the "Advanced Street" settings from this Vette Brakes page:
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm It made a big improvement in autocross over the OEM specs.

On the street, I have not had any issues with it at all. I haven't run this setting for more than 500-600 miles at this point so I cant really tell if there is any increase in tire wear at the edges. The best thing I have noticed is that turn-in is much easier and there is much less understeer.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 06:48 PM
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Hi,

-.75 camber front 1/16-1/8 total toe in. As much caster as you can get.
-.50 camber rear 0-3/32 total toe in.

I do my own alignments and this set-up is okay on the street. I also club race 3-4 events a year with these same specs.

Anymore (on the camber or less toe) and the car will be darty and IMO useless on the street.

Steven.

P.S. my car is a 1992
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
I use the "Advanced Street" settings from this Vette Brakes page:
http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/h...ruct/align.htm....
i have the same setup except i use 1/16 toe in in the front.

i drive about 30 miles daily to work with no uneven wear problems. in the autocrosses i could probably use more negative camber looking at the wear.

good luck on your bushing install Nathan. lookin' forward to seeing some pics of the install from ya next year.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by STEVEN13
-.75 camber front 1/16-1/8 total toe in. As much caster as you can get.
-.50 camber rear 0-3/32 total toe in.


That's a pretty good baseline for a street car, though I personally wouldn't do zero toe in the rear. I'd go around 1/8" total toe-in on the rear.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 03:58 AM
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 12:02 PM
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Drove it home last night, it rides like it's on brand new shocks, every corvette should come like this...

Front (approximate values):
Camber -0.8 deg
caster 6.3 deg
toe (inward total) 0.05 inches

rear
camber -0.5 deg
toe (inward total) 0.10 inches
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 12:42 PM
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Just for kicks, the best roadracing set up I found for PIR (predominantly right hand turns) was:

Ride height: (ground to finder lip) 25 3/8" front; 26 3/8" rear
Tires: 275x17 and 315x17 Hoosier R3S04: 30#cold front; 26# cold rear

Front: Toe: 3/16 out. Camber: LF neg 2.70; RF neg 2.50. Castor: +7.5
Rear: Toe: 1/16 in. Camber: LR neg 2.0; RR neg 1.75.
Bumpsteer Front:.008 out/inch. Rear: .002 out/inch @+/-1" bump/droop

LF: 710# RF: 685#
LR: 733# LR: 705# sj
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 02:03 AM
  #15  
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forget laser, just get the car stung up. cheaper and easier.

i wouldn't go off messing with the suspension too much. 99% of people that do have no idea how dynamic a suspension is.
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 02:21 AM
  #16  
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Copied from VBP catalog:
Daily Street
Front
toe-1/32" in
camber 0* -+
caster 5* to 7* pos
Rear
toe-1/8" in
camber 0* -+
Advanced Street
Front
toe-0" in
camber .25*-
caster 5* to 7* pos
Rear
toe-1/8" in
camber .5*-
Autocross baseline
Front
toe-3/16" out
camber 1.5*- (or as much as you can get)
caster 4*to 5* pos
Rear
toe-1/16" in
camber .75*- to 2.5*-

Hope this helps
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