I know there have been a number of threads on this in the past and I certainly have tried a few things. The problem being of course the stock ATI system ending up pressurizing the crankcase and causing all kinds of oil control problems. I remember back when BlackBart said to use the old drag racing system of those moroso drag racing one way valves in the valvecovers that were then plumbed into the header collector. Tests on that revealed that it only worked at very high rpms and that since it was never designed to be used in normal street cars allowed a high amount of exhaust gas to leak back up past the valves at normal driving speeds when the exhaust pressure was high.

The way that flat out worked the best was the actual moroso vacuum pump racing kit that was designed to create crankcase vacuum and was even tunable as to how much vacuum it made. Problem was it was very expensive once you got all the pieces necessary. It was a race part too that required constant maintenance on a street car, meaning it had to be removed and disassembled to be cleaned often. And there was no easy way to mount it in a late model serpentine engine accessory set up. Not without fabricating and hacking up a huge amount of stuff and spending even more money.

Now unfortunately this is a problem that I really would like to have solved. When I put my ATI on my stock motor about seven years ago it just had me route the valve cover vents to atmosphere. This didn't work at all and it would blow oil out the dipstick tube. I sealed that and it started blowing it out the oil fil cap. This went on for a while with me progressively sealing up whatever the new weak point was. I figured at some point I would get them all and it would be tight enough to hold the pressure. What happened instead was that on a little blast to 174mph the driver side valve cover fitting blew out and dumped all my oil out in a nice fine mist that was not noticable until my temp pegged and I had melted a piston. Interestingly oil pressure stayed good even with only 1 or 2 quarts in the pan.

So long story short, like the belt slippage problem, there doesn't seem to be any solution to this short of something hugely expensive and requiring tons of custom fabrication making the car far from ever being able to pass a CA visual inspection at smog time. Which I have been able to do with just the stock blower kit because of the CARB EO# stamped on the plate on the blower.

So as I am paging through the January 2005 copy of Hot Rod magazine on page 128 in the Test and Tune section they make a brief mention of taking a electric air injection pump off a blown Ford Cobra Mustang engine and wiring it backward to use as a vacuum pump. Now I have heard of people using the mechanical air injection pumps and using them as vacuum pumps but I didn't even know electric ones existed. They said it made 5 inches of vacuum and was worth 5hp on a blown 454 they had it on. They also vaguely alluded to it being a hack and not really usable but dont say way. So my question is, is this doable? I mean the part looks like a boring old factory part which I dont have a problem with because its kind of stealth. It was obviously designed by an OEM to run for thousands of miles with no issues. I mean as I recall all emissions components have to be good for 100k miles. So will it work? How much is it? and why does Hot Rod seem to be tongue in cheek slamming it as a viable solution to a problem I haven't seen any other simple, clean and inexpensive solution to yet. Any thoughts would be great, thanks.

 

Well if you were getting that many oil leaks you were flat out just having the boost blowby your rings and into your oil passages. I really don't think any amount of vacuum pump would have solved that problem. Sounds like you needed a rebuild or at least a leakdown test from the get go. I have owned many supercharged vehicles and this was only a problem on ones that were flat worn out. So I am not convinced that this is even a viable problem on a proper setup. Not slamming your car or setup by any means, it's just that I have done this before on more than one occassion without incident.

 

I've been toying with this idea for some time now, but just haven't gotten around to doing anything about it. I was going to use the nifty electric air pump that is on the EGR system on the LT1's. I'm not sure how much it flows but it would be kinda cool to give it a try. If it can flow enough air to help emissions it'll probalby keep up with crankcase ventilation. And since it's electric it could mount just about anywhere.

You could probaly pick one up from a junkyard pretty cheaply.

 

I understand where your coming from on this LPDesRoche but if you search the forums you will find this is a long existing issue going back a long time with the stock P600b ATI Procharger kits. Like belt slippage if you tried to actually get the advertised boost level, it wasn't a matter of would it do it, it was a matter of when and how much it would do it. The basic design of the kit in those areas was flawed enough that it was a given that if you actually drove your car hard you would be having these problems. If you had a factory L98 motor with a P600b ATI kit on it you were going to get oil blow out issues of some type.

My motor was reasonably high mileage but did pull 173-175psi in a compression test and passed a leakdown test with flying colors also. It was a very well upkept engine. Like I said, search the forums, this is an old issue that has plauged the stock ATI kits on stock engines for many years with no resolution that seemed to work worth a damn. My new motor that is not yet running has ZGS rings and clearances set to try to make sure I dont have the problem again but I saw a number of people with built engines a year or two ago still reporting having the same type of issues. So I would just like to head off the problem before it even has a chance to start.

 

My old SC combo pushing 14psi of boost on my 383LT1. I only see oil coming out of the dip stick, this happened only on a hard WOT. Light quick throttle it seems ok. This is common on most forced induction cars unless you setup a catch can and or a some type of a vaccum pump. My new turbo project I am going to setup a catch can that way it will be like a clean look rather than oil around the dip stick and smell burned oil on the headers.

 

With the Carrol SC kit, they route the rocker cover vent to the air filter, so i assume the SC causes the same vacume as the pressure it is putting in???

 

I had a simiilar situation with oil coming out the dipstick and EVERYWHERE generally after a REALLY good WOT run, I was too lazy to route another hose so I had the breather line just going to atmosphere that was NOT GOOD.

On the Vortech Installations they route the rocker cover vent to the intake hose right behind the MAF sensor as not to contaminate the MAF with oil. I connected mine up (like it was supposed to be....) it WORKS great it resolved the problem... ( you can download the Vortech installation manuals off the vortech site. to see how it is done.)

for the speed denisty gguys it would just go between the Air filter and the intake of the S/C...

Mo

 

I built a venturi vacuum in the inlet of my turbo. Using a industrial 3 way air valve, it uses the vacuum from the engine for the PCV during cruise, and under boost a hobbs switch swiches the 3 way valve to the turbo vacuum source . worked good up until those pesky pistons broke.