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Here it is...Car has been in the shop for some time (6 f'n wks)! Turns out the guy lost the keys, hasn't replaced them as promised, now I learn the car has been sitting outside for 2 weeks. I'm pretty steamed!!
I'm picking this beotch up tomorrow one way or another. Having a door key made shouldn't be a problem, but what about the ignition? How do I find the right resistor for my ignition, or is this something the locksmith does? Does the ignition lock have to be removed? Totally disappointed as this guy is an incredible mechanic, but this isn't like him, and I don't want my car outside!! Thanks in advance!
Here it is...Car has been in the shop for some time (6 f'n wks)! Turns out the guy lost the keys, hasn't replaced them as promised, now I learn the car has been sitting outside for 2 weeks. I'm pretty steamed!!
I'm picking this beotch up tomorrow one way or another. Having a door key made shouldn't be a problem, but what about the ignition? How do I find the right resistor for my ignition, or is this something the locksmith does? Does the ignition lock have to be removed? Totally disappointed as this guy is an incredible mechanic, but this isn't like him, and I don't want my car outside!! Thanks in advance!
the lock smith should have an "interogator" to determine the original resistor value in the key, I belive there are 14+- options. There are other trial and error methods of resistor combos you can use but the interogater in your case is the best.
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by frank j. moran
the lock smith should have an "interogator" to determine the original resistor value in the key, I belive there are 14+- options. There are other trial and error methods of resistor combos you can use but the interogater in your case is the best.
Yeah, but i dont think he has a "spare" key to test with. Please tell us you have a second set of keys somewhere?
Yeah, but i dont think he has a "spare" key to test with. Please tell us you have a second set of keys somewhere?
the interogator determines the pellet resistance that was in the lost key, you dont need a key. The tool is designed for this pupose, it has stored resistance levels, one min intervals between selections 1-14. At least that is how the GM tool works.. At the facotry on first start up the key resistance is embedded in the decoder module.
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Just had one made. There are only about 14 or 15 codes. It should be no big deal. If you had another key you could stick it in a machine that reads it and gives a number.
Worst case you'll have to have 15 keys cut and tried, trial and error. Take the cost out of the bill you owe them. The dealer SHOULD have one of each key.
No spare, unfortunately. I'm hoping that interrogator bit works. Wondering if I should just change out the ign. cyl. altogether as its a little worn. I spoke w/a former customer who's a locksmith today, and he referred me to a friend of his that is familiar with the pellets/Vats deal. This is the hate part of owning a vette-sometimes I get stumped and have to take it in (cha-ching!$)Oh, well. Thanks for the help, guys!
No spare, unfortunately. I'm hoping that interrogator bit works. Wondering if I should just change out the ign. cyl. altogether as its a little worn. I spoke w/a former customer who's a locksmith today, and he referred me to a friend of his that is familiar with the pellets/Vats deal. This is the hate part of owning a vette-sometimes I get stumped and have to take it in (cha-ching!$)Oh, well. Thanks for the help, guys!
save yourself some aggrevation, the switch component is only the mechanical portion, changing that is not going to help at all, the pellet code is what you need. Get a locksmith and have him run the interrogator on it. There are 13 differnet values, they range from 402 to 7500 ohms resistance. You could mouse around for awhile with differnet resistors, but I don't think you want to do this. The key can be cut from the cylinder code but any good smith can take imprints and file and cut a key blank, bottom line get the interrogator and your life will be easier. Drop the huse panel on the drivers side and you will see a 2 small gauge wires that go into a female connector, you plug in there, i forget the wire colors?? you will recognize them as they are loomed together, they come down from the lock cylinder. The reistance is stored in the decoder, not the switch.
BTW, most dealers and some lock shops may now require you to provide some proof that the car is yours before they cut a new key for it. Guess there had been too many cars stolen and the thiefs went to a dealer or locksmith to have a key cut or a whole new ignition cylinder installed with no real proof that the person was the owner.
Just for drill, have your driver's license and the registration (or title) when you call the locksmith in.
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by frank j. moran
the interogator determines the pellet resistance that was in the lost key, you dont need a key. The tool is designed for this pupose, it has stored resistance levels, one min intervals between selections 1-14. At least that is how the GM tool works.. At the facotry on first start up the key resistance is embedded in the decoder module.
A VATS Interrogator (a GM "essential tool" in the day) typically retails in the neighborhood of $500. NOT a tool for the backyarder.
All you need to do is unplug the 2 wire connector at the base of the column and try each of the 15 different code variations (waiting 5 minutes between each try or the VATS system disables the ignition and fuel) with a key blank that fits the lock cylinder. Once you determine the code, have the appropriate resistor key cut (about $27 at your local GM dealer). Or you can buy 15 VATS keys cut for your lock cylinder at $27 a pop.
FYI, "VATS" stands for "Vehicle Anti Theft System"... and now you know!
The interrogator will determine the the correct code in one of two ways, if you have a spare key, just insert it and it will tell you the code. Since you don't have a key, the interrogator will act as a resistor simulator, it plugs in to the harness and will simulate each of the 15 resistance pelets while you have a blank (resistorless) key in the ignition.
An alternative if you don't have acess to the interrogator is to go to radio shack and buy a bunch of resistors and using some jumper wires, you can do your own simulations. One of the tech tips articles lists all the resistances, get the resistors you need to mix and match and combine to get them and try each on. It will be a pain to do it that way compared to the interrogator, but it is doable and probaly at a cost of less than $5.
Frank J is right on. I invested about $400.00 in my interigator. One thing you have to remember is that for every wrong try you have to wait for the security system to time out before trying again. So to try 14 or so wrong codes could take all day. My (and most) interigator has a switch coupled to an electronic circuit which duplicates all 15 chips, one at a time by changing the switch position. Practically, you can eliminate several of the values as they were intended for fleets such as metropolitan police departments etc. Experience counts. All this is wonderful info, but all you need to know is that it is going to take an experianced locksmith or mechanic to do the job right. Sometimes the
key code can be gotten from a GM dealer, but they usually don't keep records beyond 10 years, which leaves you out. If you have local locksmiths who are really into automotive locksmithing, they may have contacts who maintain this kind of key info longer than GM. I, personally do not have such a contact, (my contact only has records back to the mid 90's) but I have heard of them and I know they are out there (only available to locksmiths who have established identy).
Once a locksmith gets your code/value info, he should be able to produce a key for your car in 10 minutes or less.
I don't know if this helps at this point. But I have 14 resistors for all the VATs resistance except one, which I installed in my Caprice for the remote start.