C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Suggestions on Dewitts Radiator

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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 08:30 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by phxscooby101
I think I'm leaning towards the 180 stat with the dewitts radiator.

Any precautions on getting coolant on the opti spark, since it is right above the T'stat housing? Thanks everyone, Chad
Although someone mentioned it once above, I don't think anyone caught it...your LT1 already has a 180, so you would not be changing anything, unless your current stat is bad.
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Old Dec 21, 2004 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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That's a good theory but my current setup does not cool down in the city below 220 at 70 degrees outside, I have the chip setup to turn the fan on at 219 and off at 210 but when the fans kick on it still will stay at 230 until I start driving again, so this tells me my radiator has to plugged or doesn't have enough cooling capacity, also I have a new water pump in so it can't be that.

In theory with my new radiator with double the capacity should only need a 180 with the fans kicking on at maybe 205 and off at 195 ,it should be perfect temps??? later chad
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Old Dec 24, 2004 | 08:02 AM
  #23  
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I got to discover the problems with the DeWitt radiator and how the shroud needs to be modified as well as the inlet and outlet fittings being in the wrong place. The Ron Davis radiator was just a little more--$525 if I remember right. One thing I also learned is do not use a brass drain valve in the radiator.
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Old Dec 24, 2004 | 12:52 PM
  #24  
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I have already ordered the dewitts, I guess I'll find out

What does the brass do versus ??stainless steel?? Thanks Chad
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 02:05 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 96CERon
I got to discover the problems with the DeWitt radiator and how the shroud needs to be modified as well as the inlet and outlet fittings being in the wrong place. The Ron Davis radiator was just a little more--$525 if I remember right. One thing I also learned is do not use a brass drain valve in the radiator.
We have two issues here. The first one is our fault, as on 96CERons' we punched a few tanks with the outlet hole too close to the header and he couldn't get the hose on, too close to the fans. As a result we got ride of all these tanks and nothing shipping today is a problem. I offered to fix/replace rons but he lost patience with us.

The second issue is the fan shroud. The Plastic housing for the electric fans rests directly on the face of the stock radiator core leaving no room for a thicker radiator. The only way to install a thicker radiator on 90-96 cars is to (A) trim about 3/4" off the face of the housing or (B) install a 3/4" spacer bar moving the fans back. We now include full instruction on this installation. No ones (thicker) radiator will install without this change. Be-cool offers a set of spacer bars for theirs, part number 72006 and 72007, I think they run about $70?

Personally, I think the trimming is the way to go. A small cutting wheel or a saber saw works great and it only takes a couple minutes. We must have sold 150 of this model before Ron pointed out the problem, so obviously everyone else figured something out on there own. I try to make every radiator install without any changes but in this case, there is no other way. GM simply did not give us the room to do it.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 02:20 PM
  #26  
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Thanks Tom for chiming in here, will I be getting the correct tank? and is there a problem using the brass drain valve's? Thanks Chad
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 05:05 PM
  #27  
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Chad,

Your's will be built correctly! And there is no problem with using a brass drain valve. Aluminum and brass do not react badly and all the aluminum rad companies use them.

Tom
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