Rear Spindle Nut Torque (Manual Trans)?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,236
Likes: 355
From: Albuquerque, NM
Rear Spindle Nut Torque (Manual Trans)?
I'm in the process of replacing my rear wheel bearings (hub assemblies) in my '92 six speed. I'd like to know the proper torque for the 36mm spindle nuts. The manual says 164 lbs-ft, but I'm certain I've heard people recommending 200 lbs-ft for manual transmission cars in order to prevent a "clicking" sound from the rear end.
Has anyone else heard of the 200 lbs-ft?
Has anyone else heard of the 200 lbs-ft?
Last edited by BlackbirdZ07; Jan 1, 2005 at 06:30 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,150
Likes: 6
From: NS
Originally Posted by BlackbirdZ07
I'm in the process of replacing my rear wheel bearings (hub assemblies) in my '92 six speed. I'd like to know the proper torque for the 36mm spindle nuts. The manual says 164 lbs-ft, but I'm certain I've heard people recommending 200 lbs-ft for manual transmission cars in order to prevent a "clicking" sound from the rear end.
Has anyone else heard of the 200 lbs-ft?
Has anyone else heard of the 200 lbs-ft?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
Likes: 87
From: Boston, MA
Grease or antiseize on the splines is good as they'll tend to click if left dry. With that said I've gone to torquing to 200 ft/lb as I believe it was Gordon Killebrew who suggested this for the stick cars.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
I use 200 ftlbs on mine. Also, I have found that they tend to loosen up in the first few thousand miles so I have gotten into the habit of re-torquing them as part of my checks before going to the track. After about 3-4 thousand miles, they stay tight.
When I used 165 ftlbs and did not re-torque I only got a about 6-7 track days and 5000 miles out of the bearings. The set I have on the car now is coming up on 20,000 miles and 15 track days and are just about due for replacement.
Cheers,
Lawrence
When I used 165 ftlbs and did not re-torque I only got a about 6-7 track days and 5000 miles out of the bearings. The set I have on the car now is coming up on 20,000 miles and 15 track days and are just about due for replacement.
Cheers,
Lawrence
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I went 200 on mine and have not heard of anyone reporting any problems from doing so. That's still far from excessive torque for a fastener that size. I'd recommend it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 804
Likes: 5
From: Fresno CA
I've got to do mine tomorrow and my GM manual says 81ft lbs...what's up with that??? Also, it says I need a T-45 but I've heard you guys say T-55..which one is it? And I can use anti-seize on the spindle nut threads also I assume right?..that torque value is with lubricant on the threads right? 
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,236
Likes: 355
From: Albuquerque, NM
For the 36mm nut I'd go with 164 lbs-ft if your car is automatic and 200 if it's manual. I did NOT use antiseize on those threads, as torque specs are usually for a clean and dry thread unless otherwise specified. I used antiseize on the splines only, but I did clean the rust off all threads.
The torx bolts that hold the hub assembly on should be 66 lbs-ft. The size is T55, not 45. Getting those bolts lose was by far the hardest part of the job. I used lots of penetrating oil, and still a 1/2 drive air impact wrench at maximum PSI didn't budge a couple of them. Get the car up high and use lots of leverage. I also got a long torx bit from Autozone, and I think that made the job easier than if I would have used a short bit. You'll needs lots of different extentions too. I really had no trouble getting to the bolts like some people have reported (some people say you have to use U joints, etc.--I didn't, I just used a few extentions) but breaking those bolts lose was very difficult.
I hope this helps... Good luck!
The torx bolts that hold the hub assembly on should be 66 lbs-ft. The size is T55, not 45. Getting those bolts lose was by far the hardest part of the job. I used lots of penetrating oil, and still a 1/2 drive air impact wrench at maximum PSI didn't budge a couple of them. Get the car up high and use lots of leverage. I also got a long torx bit from Autozone, and I think that made the job easier than if I would have used a short bit. You'll needs lots of different extentions too. I really had no trouble getting to the bolts like some people have reported (some people say you have to use U joints, etc.--I didn't, I just used a few extentions) but breaking those bolts lose was very difficult.
I hope this helps... Good luck!
