C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Eng removal LT1/LT4

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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 07:04 AM
  #1  
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Default Eng removal LT1/LT4

To add to a previous thread. I spun the rod bearing, and it made
the most sense for me to replace the short block. (Scoggins Dickey had best price). Hood does not need to be removed. 6 Speed does
not need to be removed. Wiper motor does. Label ALL wires. Bell
housing comes out with the motor, no problem. To aid the install: get
2 or 3 longer trans bolts. Cut off heads, and use as guides to align
the bell housing/trans. Fuel lines do not need to be removed. Just fold the fuel rails/injectors etc over and onto the windshield. Radiator does not need to be removed. A/C lines do not need to be removed.
Tip: break the front damper/balanced bolts while accy belt is still on. This create enough resistance to break the bolt.
Engine will run very rough for the 1st minute or so after start up.
Don't let this scare you.
This was my one and only LT4 engine change...and I DID NOT follow
the GM service book. The Haynes book was a better guide.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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Tip: break the front damper/balanced bolts while accy belt is still on. This create enough resistance to break the bolt.
I'm a little sketchy on this one - which bolts are you talking about and why would you want to break them to remove the engine?


I DID NOT follow the GM service book. The Haynes book was a better guide.
From what I understand, the Haynes books pale in comparison to the Helm's service manuals. I had a Haynes manual for my '97 Explorer I used to have and it helped a little, but was no comparison when it came to the amount of detail a service manual provides.

Did the Haynes manual list all of the torque specs for every bolt when you re-installed the motor?
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Also the six speed needs to be removed but I think you just mistyped that.

Oh and Haynes manual is better? You are the first who's ever said that!

Glad you had success.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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[QUOTE=VictorRussell'92]Also the six speed needs to be removed but I think you just mistyped that.
QUOTE]


No the 6 speed does not need to be removed, I have done this several times and my trany has never been pulled out of my car. I have also never had a problem with the wiper motor on my LT1 cars either.

Here is a shot of my LT1 hotcam motor before we installed it and the 6 speed never moved
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 11:43 AM
  #5  
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So I assume the engine can be shifted far enough forward to come off the end of the transmission input shaft??
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HammerDown
So I assume the engine can be shifted far enough forward to come off the end of the transmission input shaft??
it realy isn't that far, but yes
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by FD2BLK
it realy isn't that far, but yes
Nifty I learned something new today.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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Default like I said

the 6 speed does not need to be removed.
I pulled off the crank pully and vibration damper
prior to removal. This gives you more room to slide the engine foreward.
And yes, the Haynes book was a better scource than the
GM service manual. (in this case)
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 02:51 PM
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did you buy the Scoggins Dickey 383? I just recieved my Scoggins Dickey 383 long block. I hope to have it install in 2 or 3 weeks.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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Default no the LT1

LT4 short blocks are not avail, so I had
to go with the LT1 block
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 09:57 PM
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I just pulled my engine last weekend and did not pull the tranny i have a 6-speed. I did pull my hood off because i like the extra room to work on the front of the engine. This is the 5th time I've pulled my engine. I did this one in about 7 hours by myself. I only pull off the front pully not the dampner and it still clears the front crossmember and i have the larger dampner because of the 434 engine.
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