long tube headers & cam
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: valparaiso indiana
ok thanks for replys
with the headers i will need a collecters and a new y pipe would like to go true dual all the way back . as for the gears set just like the sound they make
theres no way to trick the knock sensor so i can use one ? and for the cam will the comp cam work with a stock chip
with the headers i will need a collecters and a new y pipe would like to go true dual all the way back . as for the gears set just like the sound they make
theres no way to trick the knock sensor so i can use one ? and for the cam will the comp cam work with a stock chip
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,032
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I strongly recommend Hedmans on Summit's page, for an L98 you may want to consider 1 5/8" primaries... They have hedders both with and without emmisions provisions, and also can be ceramic coated.
You can easily get around the knock sensor, without throwing any codes...
To eliminate the knock sensor (as to CFI-EFI's procedure), if you remove the blue no. 5 wire from the ESC module, you'll eliminate the knock sensor
If you thinking about true duals... and you will have LT headers on. Check the FS/T section of this page. Often you'll be able to find a stock LT1/4 exhaust for next to nothing (or even FREE!)... Get a muffler shop to weld it on, and you have yourself true duals.
You can easily get around the knock sensor, without throwing any codes...
To eliminate the knock sensor (as to CFI-EFI's procedure), if you remove the blue no. 5 wire from the ESC module, you'll eliminate the knock sensor
If you thinking about true duals... and you will have LT headers on. Check the FS/T section of this page. Often you'll be able to find a stock LT1/4 exhaust for next to nothing (or even FREE!)... Get a muffler shop to weld it on, and you have yourself true duals.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: St. Peters MO Sometimes you have to prove yourself by doing alot of killing or alot of dying...
You can get headers and cams from almost anywhere. Jegs, Summit, TPIS, SDPC, Lingenfelter, SLP... the list goes on and on.
As for the gear drive, the knock sensor will pick up on the vibration and gear mesh noise and retard timing thus nulifying any gain that you would have gotten. This was proven by Car Craft back in 2000... but also disproven by Super Chevy (I think) later on... I personally wouldn't use it.
As for the gear drive, the knock sensor will pick up on the vibration and gear mesh noise and retard timing thus nulifying any gain that you would have gotten. This was proven by Car Craft back in 2000... but also disproven by Super Chevy (I think) later on... I personally wouldn't use it.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,830
Likes: 1
From: atlanta Georgia
Hedmans are the cheapest!
get them uncoated And I can ceramic coat them Inside and out, 3 yr warranty, limited life time rust/corrosion warranty, and all preping included for $188
!!!!!!!
just let me know
thanks alot your friend
Sean
Slimshaby@mindspring.com
get them uncoated And I can ceramic coat them Inside and out, 3 yr warranty, limited life time rust/corrosion warranty, and all preping included for $188
!!!!!!!just let me know
thanks alot your friend
Sean
Slimshaby@mindspring.com
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Gear drives aren't worth the hassle. You'll get sick and tired of the noise after a while, and the harmonic vibrations they put out are'nt good for the valvesprings and bearings. But, if its what you want, go for it. Make sure and research the knock sensor bit as well. If you disable it, you may not hear it pinging over the geardrive: If it's left intact ,like an above post said, it'll just retard your timing. Different strokes for different folks! 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Originally Posted by jerrys 1989
where can i find long tube headers for a 1989 L98 corvette also would like to go larger on the cam & put a gear drive in . wont to increase hp but also be able to take road trips . also been reading that the gear drives wont work with a knock senser is there any way around that ? need some input & help . 
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getting ready to strip down for a complete rebuild. any input would be helpful
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 10
From: Lufkin Texas
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I just put the ceramic coated Hooker super competition 2149's on my 1990 last week with the hooker Y pipe. Here's the threads I had showing them off in c4 general. 
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=990504
They were $549 at summit and man do they sound and make it run good!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=990504They were $549 at summit and man do they sound and make it run good!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 72
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From: valparaiso indiana
Originally Posted by 89 Paul in Cal
Are looking to retain emission tubing on the headers?
Hooker 2149's. Jeg's or summit.
I have a used Crane compucam from my 89 I'd like to sell.
it's pn#104224 I think they also call it a 2032 grind.
214/220
.452 .465
112LSA
as you know, hydraulic rollers don't hardly wear and this one is in very good shape. Will wake up the motor nice and still meet smog test requirements.
$100.00 bux + shp
sorry for the blatant plug. :o
Hooker 2149's. Jeg's or summit.
I have a used Crane compucam from my 89 I'd like to sell.
it's pn#104224 I think they also call it a 2032 grind.
214/220
.452 .465
112LSA
as you know, hydraulic rollers don't hardly wear and this one is in very good shape. Will wake up the motor nice and still meet smog test requirements.
$100.00 bux + shp
sorry for the blatant plug. :o
Last edited by jerrys 1989; Jan 22, 2005 at 03:34 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 472
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From: Tampa Bay Area
How much Hp and TQ are you wanting to get? Are you still going to be using all the stock intake components? I personally am very partial to Comp Cams XE line of cams they have more lift for the same duration. If you were going with a new cam and depending on your intake mods I would go with either the
XE269HR 218*/224* @.050 and .495"/.503" 112 LSA this is a good profile with more lift with 1.5 rr's than the afore mentioned cam with 1.6 rr's.
If you go with aftermarket runners, base and ported heads I would go with the XE276HR 224*/230* @.050 .503"/.510" This is the roller version of the cam that I run it idles nice and makes great power.
If you are on a budget then the aforementioned cam is also a good profile, just not one that I would buy new.
JMHO
XE269HR 218*/224* @.050 and .495"/.503" 112 LSA this is a good profile with more lift with 1.5 rr's than the afore mentioned cam with 1.6 rr's.
If you go with aftermarket runners, base and ported heads I would go with the XE276HR 224*/230* @.050 .503"/.510" This is the roller version of the cam that I run it idles nice and makes great power.
If you are on a budget then the aforementioned cam is also a good profile, just not one that I would buy new.
JMHO
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,484
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From: Everyday you must choose between the pain of discipline and the pain of regret. Fredericktown, OH
I don't think I'd put a gear drive in anything. I'd go with a good double roller chain or if it was all out performance and adjustability I'd put a belt drive on it.