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From your description it sounds like it runs rough until it hits closed loop operation. Since it's an '85 I believe it has a cold start injector. I'd start with the cold start injector thermal time switch in the front of the manifold by the water neck. See if you didn't knock the connector off the sensor when you bypassed the TB.
LOL yeah cute isnt she? funny thing is the car is an 85 which makes it 20 and the young lady is an 84 model which makes her 21... a year older BUT she doesnt have nearly as many performance issues as the vette of course you end up throwing money at both of them, go figure .. new tires here douney and burke purse there... you know the drill there lol fix this stupid 85 corvette and you can have the 84 Amber and ill even throw in the 200 dollar prada shoes and the 600 dollar purse
(that was a feeble attempt at humor please do not take offense)
Last edited by clearwater_shark; Jan 13, 2005 at 11:58 AM.
Thanks to fsr402 (who is awesome BTW) i will be able to post larger pics tonight now you guys want to see the car not the girl right? *evil grin* how about some help with the problem lol
From your description it sounds like it runs rough until it hits closed loop operation. Since it's an '85 I believe it has a cold start injector. I'd start with the cold start injector thermal time switch in the front of the manifold by the water neck. See if you didn't knock the connector off the sensor when you bypassed the TB.
It does but it still has a miss even when hot... could i have a coil issue here maybe? its the only thing left to replace unless i got a defective module or cap... on the thermal timer the connector is ok and plugged in anyone know how to test that sensor? not in the manual everything BUT that one lol
ok update... i checked the resistance on the injectors and the first one on the driveers side is pretty coroded as if water had gotten in at some point... maybe it IS hurricane damage after all... i unpluigged it completely and started the car it didnt seem to make a differance at idle... i know it is badly coroded because i had to scrape into the green crap with the multi meter probe to get a reading going to try and clean the contacts let you know what i come up with...
Is the miss always on the same cylinder and does it continually missfire, or just miss, run ok for a couple revolutions and then miss again? Was the problem there before you replaced all the things mentioned in the other thread? When it starts missing, put your finger on each injector and see if they are all firing, you'll be able to feel it pulse when it lets fuel through. Try to narrow it down to one cylinder missfiring.
you know its funny, the plugs all look ok when pulled and checked, well once i got rid of the bosch double plats they all seemed to look normal anyway, the tach jumps around ALOT at idle it will jump sometimes 200 - 300 RPM i cleaned the contacts on that injector and although i have not had the chance to drive the car (at work) at least now it seems to smooth out when at idle and now you can hear the engine pick up when you connect the plug while running where before you couldnt... before it ran the same with the injector plugged in as it did with it unplugged. I dont think the injectors will throw a code even if one is disconnected will they? you would however thnk the thing would have run a LOT worse if it was not getting fuel to a cyl wouldnt you?
Last edited by clearwater_shark; Jan 13, 2005 at 03:40 PM.
you know its funny, the plugs all look ok when pulled and checked, well once i got rid of the bosch double plats they all seemed to look normal anyway, the tach jumps around ALOT at idle it will jump sometimes 200 - 300 RPM i cleaned the contacts on that injector and although i have not had the chance to drive the car (at work) at least now it seems to smooth out when at idle and now you can hear the engine pick up when you connect the plug while running where before you couldnt... before it ran the same with the injector plugged in as it did with it unplugged. I dont think the injectors will throw a code even if one is disconnected will they? you would however thnk the thing would have run a LOT worse if it was not getting fuel to a cyl wouldnt you?
One cylinder not getting any fuel wont drag the motor down like one getting fuel but no spark. So I'm thinking that your problem lies with the injectors. I don't know how many miles you have on her but you may want to think about getting some new injectors. Go with the ford injectors, you can get them from Jegs for just over $200 for a set of 8.
well although its improved its still has a miss... yes all injectors are ticking away and they all look good from the OHM meter stance too. funny thing is when i unplug the esc controller (by the blower motor) it smooths out and seems to idle a little more even. now here is a poser for you a buddy of mine did the timing on it because i dont have a light, (took out the dist. to replace the p/u coil) i didnt mention the esc to him so i dont know if he unplugged it to set base or not would that make it act like this? (just called him and he didnt remember)