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Have you guys ever had no response when the ignition key is turned? All accessoried work (radio). Battery voltage is fine. After several attempts it starts great. Can it be the ignition switch? I have a new OPTI, plugs, wires. Runs great. Just don't won't to be stranded.
The key you use has a chip (the black chip on the key). Sometimes the chip gets dirty. Either use another key in the ignition and try that or take your key and try to clean it (soap and water). This is the first place to start. Give it a try.
I would definetely check the starter, as I have had several GM starters go out before with symptoms exactly as you describe. Listen to hear if the solenoid is stuck, you will hear an audible click.
I have the same problem. I do have a very loud click, but the engine does not turn over. Also, when I start it later once the engine has warmed up, i hear this really freaky sound (Like a air gun going off), that is there till the engine starts. Does your's do that too?
I have the same problem. I do have a very loud click, but the engine does not turn over. Also, when I start it later once the engine has warmed up, i hear this really freaky sound (Like a air gun going off), that is there till the engine starts. Does your's do that too?
Sounds like a poor battery cable connection, they pop. Solution: remove battery cables (neg first) clean both cable lugs and battery terminals and replace battery cables (neg last).
Have you guys ever had no response when the ignition key is turned? All accessoried work (radio). Battery voltage is fine. After several attempts it starts great. Can it be the ignition switch? I have a new OPTI, plugs, wires. Runs great. Just don't won't to be stranded.
As a precaution, clean your battery terminals and cables and replace!
The starter solenoid gets power from the ign sw, start enable relay, and the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if automatic). When it won't crank, that is the time to start testing for the cause. First try your spare key as its pellet contacts aren't worn like your every day key. Next, jump the clutch safety sw/gear sel sw and try a crank. Next, pull the driver side kick panel and find the two white (on my 87) wires from the steering column that plug into a connector with yellow/brown (again on my 87) wires from the wiring harness. Unplug and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance across the white wires. The resistance should be the same as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ign tumbler which has new contacts that make with the key pellet.
You can temporarily bypass VATS by clipping a fixed resistor (a 5% 1/4 watt resistor from Radio Shack will work) the same value as your pellet across the yellow/brown wires (connector unplugged). Do not permanently bypass VATS as 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
I had a 91 firebird with the same ignition switch and the same problem. For me it was the ignition switch that had gone bad and I think it was around $400 to have replaced at the dealership.
When you turn the key to Start, does the Security light illuminate? If so, it is a VATS related problem. If not, start looking elsewhere. I have a 95 and when my VATS was acting up, that is how I knew what it was. I disabled it in the PCM and have not had any issues since.
Ok, I found the problem, or one of them at least. I hope this helps the guy who started to post. I was pulling off the battery connections and I noticed that the Positive post was not on tight. I cleaned the post, and tightened up the post TIGHT, and now it fires everytime. Now, though, I have a problem with the starting making a high pitched sound when I crank it. I had never done this before this weekend, and it doesn't seem to do it when the engine is cold.
the 95 had a recall for that problem , although i can remember exactly what it was that was causing it. I do know that if it happens again , just remove the key and close the door and wait about 5mins and it will start.