C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

door jam switch keeps breaking..

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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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Default door jam switch keeps breaking..

i've replaced my driver's side door jam switch twice already.. the first time, it broke as soon as i closed the door. (it broke meaning it broke apart, not electical failure) ok, maybe i got a dud. i went back to the dealer and the parts guy gave me a new one . i went home to change it again, and it worked for a week, then it broke again. i've notice that my OEM switches dont stick out as much as the new ones, i just thought because mine are old. but that seems to be the problem. i tried to exchange it again, but no dice . they told me that i was doing something wrong. i doubt i have the wrong part # cause i gave him my vin#. the dealer told me to adjust my door, but my door is straight and true. the middle part of the switches sticks out a lot further than my OEM ones.

Can someone verify this for me or have pics of what their switch looks like and compare them with mine? if someone can help me post pics, i'd appreciate it.

thanks
vinnie
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 03:16 PM
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You're not doing anything wrong, AC Delco's quality control on these parts is simply non existent. The local parts stores here can get different brands, I'm gonna try those and see if I can get some that don't break on first use.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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i'll have to argee with AC delco's quailty. i thought that AC Delco would be the better than other brands but i guess i was wrong. i'll try auto zone or pep boys.
FWIW, the AC Delco switch looked like it was held together with little dabs of glue.

thanks
vinnie
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 03:53 PM
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Well if you find a particular brand that works before I do please let me know! I don't want to waste anymore money.

Currently I've got the situation fixed using some washers to space the switch out from the door and a piece of cardboard taped to the doorjamb. Obviously this isn't an idea solution!
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 04:48 PM
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I thought I was the only one to do that. I got one from auto zone and broke it when I shut the door. Ordered one from gm, and pushed the plunger extention in before installing it. So far it has not broke. They are junk.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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I was having the same problem. Does yours have an extension on the main plunger? Mine did, I cut if off because it did nothing but cause the whole assembly to be too long.....which ended up breaking every one I installed. Worked like a champ
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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the plunger being too long was my problem. i was afraid to push it in too hard.. how'd you push yours in? if it was further in, it will be the same length as my OEM one which owould make it work!
i also though about cutting off the plunger..

thanks
vinnie
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 05:05 AM
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Before installing the switch, I used the vise and pressed it back in. That way the back side was supported. The intent with the plunger is to automatically adjust for the clearance between the switch and the door shell. But when you close the door, with the pin extended, it is in effect like hitting it with a hammer.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 06:51 AM
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Are the replacements not adjustable like the OEM part? The plunger should thread in and out I would think.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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The plunger doesn't thread in, it just pushes in. One of my new ones broke immediately, the other one collapsed the plunger exactly like it should have but then the switch crapped out within a week.

Not to mention that neither had a smooth operation, they would drag and hang. In short they are complete junk.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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And I just bought two new ones from GM. This thread has NOT made my day.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by BlkSS1755
the plunger being too long was my problem. i was afraid to push it in too hard.. how'd you push yours in? if it was further in, it will be the same length as my OEM one which owould make it work!
i also though about cutting off the plunger..

thanks
vinnie
I didn't even bother pushing the plunger in. After breaking 2 of them, I decided that cutting it looked like the better solution. Mine has been flawless for the last 6 months (knocking on wood or course)
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 10:50 AM
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Probably a stupid question but has anybody just slowly closed the door after installation? If they are supposed to "find" their own depth maybe just slamming the door is the problem here. I guess I'll find out soon enough when I replace mine.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnight 85
Probably a stupid question but has anybody just slowly closed the door after installation? If they are supposed to "find" their own depth maybe just slamming the door is the problem here. I guess I'll find out soon enough when I replace mine.
after exchanging for a new one, that's what the part's guy at the dealer told me to do.. it didnt help i'm gonna go with the "cutting the plunger" method next time i have a chance to stop by the dealer.

thanks
vinnie
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:43 PM
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when I did mine I gently pushed the door closed with my body pressure on the door. Don't slam it shut just place the door in the closed position and press it shut. This will set the plunger at the right depth so the switch is closed and the plunger takes up the extra space between the switch and the door jam. I had no problem with my body weight against the door. The plunger is a very snug fit in the switch and you can't press it by hand ,you need the extra weight of the door and your body to slide it in. Les
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:04 AM
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Absolute POS-No Quality control. Got 2 from Ecklers, Got 2 from Chevy,on all of them the female receptacle was about half size of the male plug.Chevy guy says-yep, right part, probably a bad batch-what BS.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
Chevy guy says-yep, right part, probably a bad batch-what BS.
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