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Plenum pull issue

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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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Default Plenum pull issue

Did anyone else have an issue putting back the screw #12, the one at the back of the engine on the passenger side? On my car, the rigid fuel lines going to the regulator run on top of it. I tried to pry it over as much as possible with a breaker bar to put the screw back, but still ended up mis-threading the hole. The screw seems to hold ok, but I am a bit upset about it. I'm not sure what I would have done differently, though.

I need to go buy some coolant after dinner, then I'll see how it went. I definitely will need new injectors, I could smell fuel from a few of the ports with the ignition on. Seemed like only secondaries, but one primary smelled a little, though it's hard to tell if it wasn't just the secondary next to it (which smelled too). I couldn't see any drips though. I think I'll wait until next year to replace those.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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put the fuel lines on last.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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You should be able to get the bolt in with out any issues. If need by undo the one line that is inhibiting your install. iT'S A t-40 bolt for the fuel rail adapter.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Had the same problem until I disconnected the fuel line. Actually found that the fuel line o ring was in bad shape when I took it apart.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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I guess next time I'll remove that line then... Though it may not matter anymore as the thread is already messed up...

Jeff, you said it's not brain surgery pulling the plenum. It's a good thing I'm not a brain surgeon, then, because I obviously didn't put something back together right.

The car has a high idle, like 1000-1500. But after you punch it, it gets higher to like 2,000-2,200 rpm, which is really annoying. I discovered I didn't hook up one of the middle vacuum lines, but unfortunately putting that back on didn't fix it. The front underneath line is on, the two on the drivers side, and the map one in back, plus the other mid, the brake booster, and the FPR one. So either one of them leaks, there's some other one, the plenum isn't sealed, or I jacked something up when I cleaned the throttle body.

On the plus side, the car was pulling like a freight train! It felt noticeably stronger.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 06:57 AM
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If the IAC system is dirty would that cause a high idle issue? Did you clean that up when you did your T/B cleaning?

Yea that bolt by the fuel block is a bit of a PIA but I looked at it before the tear down & figured that had to come off to get to that bolt to get it out. I just thought that was evident & I was the only one to not realize the fuel block could be in the way. That's why I didn't mention it. I figured if I did post about, it would be redundant! Sorry! :o

The threads may respond to a tap for clean up & I would think it would be okay. There is not that much T/Q on them.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by tomtom72
Yea that bolt by the fuel block is a bit of a PIA but I looked at it before the tear down & figured that had to come off to get to that bolt to get it out. I just thought that was evident & I was the only one to not realize the fuel block could be in the way. That's why I didn't mention it. I figured if I did post about, it would be redundant! Sorry! :o
Heheh, no problem. I often find I think something won't come off, or go on, or whatnot. But if I just follow the manual or instructions, it usually works out. I'd thought maybe the bolt was short or something and might fit out, and when I got it out without moving the line I figured that's just how it goes. My manual doesn't mention disconnecting it either. It seems I always mess something up the first time... I often wonder if I should just stop doing any work on cars other than like oil and brakes. But then I figure some mechanic will probably mess something up too, at least when I do it I know about it.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 10:35 AM
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Mine had a high idle for a while after disconnecting the battery. I submitted a post about it a long time ago and several guys replied and said give it a few days to settle down, it took a few days but it did settle down, I would say make sure you drive it above 40 mph for a while and wait a few days before going on.

You can clean the thottle body, etc and look for obvious things like vaccum lines, etc. But it just might be the ECM relearning things.

Check the MAP sensor hose on the back of the plenum, pull it and clean the inside.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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Yes, I suspect a little of it is due to pulling the battery cable, along with the slightly rougher idle (perhaps as any fuel adjustment for my leaking injectors was unlearned). But this is wicked high, like it won't drop below 2,000 rpm.

I removed that fuel line, removed the single plenum bolt, and put it in straight. It definitely wasn't applying pressure before. It went in straight ok, I cleaned the bolt threads and cleaned up the hole a bit. I think I'll just need to be very careful with it in the future.

That seemed to fix everything, the idle was fine, it drove fine, etc. Then once the car warmed up, I hammered it. Again, wow does it pull like a freight train now! I mean, it pulled hard before , but it's definitely better now!! But right after that pull, the idle was high at about 1,500 rpm. Another slight dig in 5th and it was at 2,000 rpm. I am now thinking it's the PCV cover that needs to be replaced or zip-tied again. It for sure slips off a bit. I don't know if mine is normal, but mine doesn't even sort of snap over the PCV valves, it just slides over easy as pie. You can pull it off with a pinky, there is zero grab to it. So I'm hoping it's just that this is lifting off a little under hard throttle. We'll see... :-\

Edit, oh Joey, the MAP vacuum hose is new, came with the vacuum kit from Kurt White. It's on there ok.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
snip
sounds about right
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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What did you actually clean on the TB?

Also when you get your hig hidle, does it eventually idle back down? Can you stab the throttle and release does it idle down?
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffvette
What did you actually clean on the TB?

Also when you get your hig hidle, does it eventually idle back down? Can you stab the throttle and release does it idle down?
I just sprayed it with some TB cleaner, and then wiped the cleaner off. I used q-tips to clean around the edges of the throttle blades. Then I pulled the plenum and set it tipped down, and all the remaining TB cleaner rolled out the front. I didn't intentionally spray it into the IAC passage since it would be hard to wipe it out of there, though some may have gotten up in there. The primary butterfly was really crusty, though the rest of it was fairly clean.

I have checked to make sure the butterflies are not sticking. They snap back very firmly. Blipping the throttle does nothing to bring the idle down. Once it goes up, it stays up.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 01:51 PM
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So it sounds like you cleaned the dag from the big twin bores?
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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Did you have any trouble codes showing before? If not do you have any now?
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffvette
So it sounds like you cleaned the dag from the big twin bores?
Dang, that word seemed familiar so I did a search... I'll take another look at it, but yeah I'm pretty sure that stuff is gone. I didn't notice a crusting specifically around the edges of the blades, but then I also wasn't watching for one. Hopefully that isn't what's causing it...

ZR1Mack, no codes before or after so far.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
Dang, that word seemed familiar so I did a search... I'll take another look at it, but yeah I'm pretty sure that stuff is gone. I didn't notice a crusting specifically around the edges of the blades, but then I also wasn't watching for one. Hopefully that isn't what's causing it...

ZR1Mack, no codes before or after so far.
OH I misread. I thoght you got rid of the high idle....
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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Urg... So I suck. I zip-tied the PCV, and took it for a spin. Unfortunately I didn't have a chance to run it to 7 grand, but I did get on it hard a bit a few times. It is better but not fixed. No more 2,000 rpm idle. But after stomping it in 5th, it was raised to about 1,500 rpm, and drops to 1,200 rpm when you stop. Stabbing the gas will help, and I was able to lower it to 800 rpm a few times by blipping the gas.

So one, what can I do to absolutely confirm it's the lack of dag? Can I put some dielectric grease on the edges to temporarily help it seal? Or something else? Or is that asking for trouble? I just want something short-term where it will fix it, thus giving me confidence that is the problem and not some other unknown bone-head thing I did.

Then second, what can I do to fix it? Can that stuff be re-applied? Can I buy a new TB? Is this a reason to go to 63mm? Thanks!
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 06:50 PM
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I'm not exactly sure what the compound is, but I know it's sticky and it seals.

But it sounds like that is part of your issue. As you are able to get the idle to come down when you let of the gas and the throttle "slams" shut.
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 02:06 AM
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Bob, here is a picture of the "DAG" from a new TB. It goes all the way around the bore.

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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I hate to be so full of Q's but that stuff makes the big blades air tight? If it is removed by wear or by mistake when you clean the T/B you wind up with a vacuum leak, sort of? Do I follow this thread correctly?

I must be getting senile but I don't remember seeing that stuff in my T/B when I cleaned it. Do all T/B's have that stuff? Is it just ZR-1's? Where can I go to read up on this stuff? Sorry Aurora for jumping in like this on your thread.

Tom
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