Fault code H61
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 670
Likes: 28
From: Mitchell SD
Originally Posted by LoTu5
OK sounds like a plan,ile just explain how i checked the vacum system;
With the key turned "ON" but without engine running we unpluggedthe long hose running from the pump at the area by the alt...then unplugged a hose so we could plug the long pump hose straight to the actuators.....the actuators worked and we left them on there for a time but heard no pump noise..so we gathered that they were OK
We did the same with the reservoir ,the only thing i didnt check was the solenoid,,ime not sure how to check that one?
Do you think the way we did the check was a safe way or will i be better checking with a slow leak procedure?
With the key turned "ON" but without engine running we unpluggedthe long hose running from the pump at the area by the alt...then unplugged a hose so we could plug the long pump hose straight to the actuators.....the actuators worked and we left them on there for a time but heard no pump noise..so we gathered that they were OK
We did the same with the reservoir ,the only thing i didnt check was the solenoid,,ime not sure how to check that one?
Do you think the way we did the check was a safe way or will i be better checking with a slow leak procedure?
Last edited by jabrun; Dec 8, 2005 at 06:38 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Originally Posted by Aurora40
I'd think if that MAP hose was leaking, youd just have problems with a high idle and such in addition to probably a poor-running engine?
You are right the idle was high and also fuel consumption was a little higher than normal,so i think ive fixed that now with the new hose plus ive put a cable tie at each end,just in case.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Originally Posted by DDSLT5
$20 says the reservoir for the vacuum is toast.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 37,053
Likes: 69
From: This city NEVER sleeps! Frank's back yard!
Originally Posted by LoTu5
You are right the idle was high and also fuel consumption was a little higher than normal,so i think ive fixed that now with the new hose plus ive put a cable tie at each end,just in case.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 17,101
Likes: 5
From: No more yankee my wankee, the Donger is tired!
Originally Posted by LoTu5
You are right the idle was high and also fuel consumption was a little higher than normal,so i think ive fixed that now with the new hose plus ive put a cable tie at each end,just in case.
Cliff, I would remove the zip ties. The MAP sensor hose is one that you can access while the plenum is still on the car and plug back in. If this is secured, you run the risk of another vacuum fitting blowing out and forcing a plenum pull.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,413
Likes: 9
From: The Old Dominion
Originally Posted by LoTu5
OK sounds like a plan,ile just explain how i checked the vacum system;
With the key turned "ON" but without engine running we unpluggedthe long hose running from the pump at the area by the alt...then unplugged a hose so we could plug the long pump hose straight to the actuators.....the actuators worked and we left them on there for a time but heard no pump noise..so we gathered that they were OK
We did the same with the reservoir ,the only thing i didnt check was the solenoid,,ime not sure how to check that one?
Do you think the way we did the check was a safe way or will i be better checking with a slow leak procedure?
With the key turned "ON" but without engine running we unpluggedthe long hose running from the pump at the area by the alt...then unplugged a hose so we could plug the long pump hose straight to the actuators.....the actuators worked and we left them on there for a time but heard no pump noise..so we gathered that they were OK
We did the same with the reservoir ,the only thing i didnt check was the solenoid,,ime not sure how to check that one?
Do you think the way we did the check was a safe way or will i be better checking with a slow leak procedure?
It sounds like you only applied vacuum directly to the actuators, which I don't think would turn the pump off.
But maybe I'm not following what you did.
Last edited by Aurora40; Dec 8, 2005 at 01:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Originally Posted by Aurora40
So did the secondary pump ever come on? I'm not quite following your test, but it seems like if the pump was disconnected from the system, that the whole system wouldn't have any vacuum, and thus the pump should be triggered on (continuously).
It sounds like you only applied vacuum directly to the actuators, which I don't think would turn the pump off.
But maybe I'm not following what you did.
It sounds like you only applied vacuum directly to the actuators, which I don't think would turn the pump off.
But maybe I'm not following what you did.
Then we turned key off
Next we unplugged one of the hoses into the resevoir...we then unplugged the long hose from the pump from a connector somewhere just into the underneath the plenum and instead put it into the hole that we just took the other hose out of in the resevoir.
We turned the key but didnt start to get the noise and it made a noise for a short while then stopped making the noise and held vacum....so we thought that the resevoir was ok.
then we turned key off.
We then unplugged a hose that fed both actuators and again put this long hose from the pump into the hole.....we then turned the key and it operated the actuators and they worked OK ..left the key on for a while and it held vacum.
Hope this explains it better.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Originally Posted by Jeffvette
Cliff, I would remove the zip ties. The MAP sensor hose is one that you can access while the plenum is still on the car and plug back in. If this is secured, you run the risk of another vacuum fitting blowing out and forcing a plenum pull.
Originally Posted by DDSLT5
Cliff - make sure you hold the key extra long with the map sensor zip tied like that - if you release early, and it backfires, this connection will definitely not blow off, thus all the rest beneath the plenum are susceptible! This is why I am extra careful to hold the key until the motor is definitely running, as I don't want to have to pull the plenum every time due to a backfire, and lines blowing off! Either remove the zip ties, or hold to be safe!
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,413
Likes: 9
From: The Old Dominion
Originally Posted by LoTu5
Sorry its a bit difficult to explain but here goes....first of we tried the pump by turning the key(but not starting),and the pump made the noise for a short while ,then went off and didnt make a noise again for the few minutes we left the key in that position.
Then we turned key off
Then we turned key off
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 774
Likes: 4
From: It's a Chevy... you can fix it with a hammer.
Originally Posted by Aurora40
Is this normal for them to go minutes or more without the pump kicking on? Maybe it's just that my car still has some problems... I replaced the secondary piping, and the pump went from going on every 3-5 seconds to kicking on every 30-45 seconds instead. Is it possible to have one so leakproof that the pump stays off for minutes or more?
I've wondered the same thing.
Code 61 is the reason I joined the PPP, turned out to be the solenoid for me. Limey hooked me up with a new one.
I dreamed of building bent stainless lines for our crappy secondary vacuum systems and selling them, but I didn't do it.
Good thread.
Since no one has:
Code 61 will set when:
Secondary port throttles valves are commanded closed and vacuum sensor signal is between .74 volt and 4.89 volts.
OR
Secondary port throttle valves are commanded open and vacuum sensor signal voltage is less than 1.70 volts.
If the vacuum pump runs constantly with the ignition "ON" and engine "OFF" or if it does not operate at all, this problem must be corrected 'first' (for those of you following along).
I wish I could post more, but I don't know how.
Rick
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Ive been getting stuck into today again and have stripped out the power packs and starter.
As normal with the LT5 it was "bogging" under there and the drain hole was blocked so its worth cleaning,and unblocking the drain hole.
This is normal for an LT5
Ive got into it and left some degreaser on over night to work its magic.
ive cleared the hole from the top,but tomorrow will have to jack the car up and clear the drain tube from underneath,then i will change the actuators ,refit the starter and packs and go round glueing the vacum pipe connections.
As normal with the LT5 it was "bogging" under there and the drain hole was blocked so its worth cleaning,and unblocking the drain hole.
This is normal for an LT5
Ive got into it and left some degreaser on over night to work its magic.
ive cleared the hole from the top,but tomorrow will have to jack the car up and clear the drain tube from underneath,then i will change the actuators ,refit the starter and packs and go round glueing the vacum pipe connections.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,948
Likes: 2
From: Southern England
Originally Posted by zesstey1
Those actuators look like there upside down to me ask jeff to be sure they should line up straight.
