Radiator Problems... Again
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 175
From: IN
Radiator Problems... Again
Hey All:
Well, for the second time in 4 years and 7K miles, my GM radiator has blown again. I tell you, I can't believe GM can make such sh*t sometimes... Well, yes I can... It separated where the plastic tank is crimped on the passenger side. Interestingly, that's almost exactly where the original one failed.
Now... I'm sick of changing the radiator and I want to go aftermarket.. So, is it Fluidyne?? Ron Davis?? Be Cool?? I don't road race the car, so I don't need ultimate cooling, although I think any of the ones mentioned above would be a marked improvement over stock.
The radiator is out, and I'm open to suggestions. I'd like one that installs with minimal fabrication. Also the best places/prices to acquire would be appreciated as well.
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
Not Stock
Well, for the second time in 4 years and 7K miles, my GM radiator has blown again. I tell you, I can't believe GM can make such sh*t sometimes... Well, yes I can... It separated where the plastic tank is crimped on the passenger side. Interestingly, that's almost exactly where the original one failed.
Now... I'm sick of changing the radiator and I want to go aftermarket.. So, is it Fluidyne?? Ron Davis?? Be Cool?? I don't road race the car, so I don't need ultimate cooling, although I think any of the ones mentioned above would be a marked improvement over stock.
The radiator is out, and I'm open to suggestions. I'd like one that installs with minimal fabrication. Also the best places/prices to acquire would be appreciated as well.
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
Not Stock
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
the stock rad looks cheesy but I agree. the system is likely building too much pressure.
if I had to do it again, I would go fluidyne. not cheap, but the more efficient thinner core is easier for the fans to draw through creeping in traffic. the big thick ron davis is great for racing where you are at speed, but the factory fans are a bit puny and the car will run hot with the ac on in hot weather (right when you need it)
I have wanted to try a BIG single fan and see if I can address that problem but the fluidyne seems to do that based on what some research shows.
it's a high quality part for sure. If you really want to step up get the better "stacked" oil cooler which is even better, but I think it's close to a 1k bill, not sure about where to get the best price.
hibster???
if I had to do it again, I would go fluidyne. not cheap, but the more efficient thinner core is easier for the fans to draw through creeping in traffic. the big thick ron davis is great for racing where you are at speed, but the factory fans are a bit puny and the car will run hot with the ac on in hot weather (right when you need it)
I have wanted to try a BIG single fan and see if I can address that problem but the fluidyne seems to do that based on what some research shows.
it's a high quality part for sure. If you really want to step up get the better "stacked" oil cooler which is even better, but I think it's close to a 1k bill, not sure about where to get the best price.
hibster???
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 175
From: IN
Hey Guys:
Yes, I thought about that... BUT... The first one blew when I had the stock radiator *and* thermostat installed... I now have a 180 degree Stant with 6 1/8" holes drilled around the outer edge and it still started leaking.. I followed all the literature/info I could find when I installed the 180 degree thermostat. Perhaps I exaggerated a bit when I said it 'blew.' It was really just seeping.
I don't *think* that I have high pressure issues. Mostly because I think as much pressure as the water pump produces over 6K would literally blow the ends off the stock radiator. That said, I'm open to suggestions on what to check for too high pressure.
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
Yes, I thought about that... BUT... The first one blew when I had the stock radiator *and* thermostat installed... I now have a 180 degree Stant with 6 1/8" holes drilled around the outer edge and it still started leaking.. I followed all the literature/info I could find when I installed the 180 degree thermostat. Perhaps I exaggerated a bit when I said it 'blew.' It was really just seeping.
I don't *think* that I have high pressure issues. Mostly because I think as much pressure as the water pump produces over 6K would literally blow the ends off the stock radiator. That said, I'm open to suggestions on what to check for too high pressure.
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,695
Likes: 2
I hadn't heard of this t-stat problem, but it makes me wonder about a "symptom" that has just started on my '91. The last two times I ran the car...only long enough to warm it up, run it around the block, and put it back in the garage....I opened the radiator cap a day or two later and there was still enough pressure in the system to make the cap "pop" a little. I don't remember that ever happening before. In fact, I don't remember it happening on any other car I've owned.
The radiator was replaced less than 5000 miles ago. Am I experiencing a similar situation that could kill by new radiator?
The radiator was replaced less than 5000 miles ago. Am I experiencing a similar situation that could kill by new radiator?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
That is wierd, i don't think I've ever had that either. Maybe what you heard was actually vacuem being released, sorta like opening a coffee can, which might indicate a bad radiator cap. Abad cap could also cause pressure problems, I think they're supposed to release at 13.5 lbs. We have pretty severe service requirements in ariz, as you do in Vegas. Usually the gm radiators will show signs of swelling, than cracking, before leaking. Might just have gotten a bad one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,285
Likes: 52
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
Just a thought...
...the GM FSM says that the side tank crimps can come loose??? and that they should be checked...I guess that speaks volumes for Q/C??
Also, a while back one of the brothers bought a Stant 180* T-stat and the mfg put the wrong part in the box! He actually got a T-stat for a Ford dura max truck motor...it looked similar to our T-stats but the by-pass spring was too heavy & he lost a DeWitt. The only other thing I can think of would be a restriction in the system, like a clogged heater core(??), causing an elevated system presure???
Tom
Also, a while back one of the brothers bought a Stant 180* T-stat and the mfg put the wrong part in the box! He actually got a T-stat for a Ford dura max truck motor...it looked similar to our T-stats but the by-pass spring was too heavy & he lost a DeWitt. The only other thing I can think of would be a restriction in the system, like a clogged heater core(??), causing an elevated system presure???
Tom
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 175
From: IN
Well:
I think I will also replace the thermostat as a precaution. Does anyone have the Stant part number for the 180 stat? I have it somewhere but I recently moved so if anyone has it handy, that would be great! Is there another manufacturer who makes a stat that some of you have used with success?
Yes, TomTom, the factory radiators are a real POS. It's a wonder that they last as long as they do with the crimped on plastic tanks(they've been doing this for 20+ years). You can't even get a manual radiator from GM any longer. You get a 'universal fit' version that has the provisions for the auto trans lines as well. I can't imagine that the LT5s radiator design was more robust, but maybe that's the reason this universal fit one started seeping so quickly?? Doubt it though.
I had forgotten about DeWitt. C'mon, I know a lot of you guys are running aftermarket radiators. Let's here some commentary on the different types available!
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
I think I will also replace the thermostat as a precaution. Does anyone have the Stant part number for the 180 stat? I have it somewhere but I recently moved so if anyone has it handy, that would be great! Is there another manufacturer who makes a stat that some of you have used with success?
Yes, TomTom, the factory radiators are a real POS. It's a wonder that they last as long as they do with the crimped on plastic tanks(they've been doing this for 20+ years). You can't even get a manual radiator from GM any longer. You get a 'universal fit' version that has the provisions for the auto trans lines as well. I can't imagine that the LT5s radiator design was more robust, but maybe that's the reason this universal fit one started seeping so quickly?? Doubt it though.
I had forgotten about DeWitt. C'mon, I know a lot of you guys are running aftermarket radiators. Let's here some commentary on the different types available!
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/7k-10k.gif" border="0">
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,013
Likes: 26
From: HOME OF THE FREE. BECAUSE OF OUR BRAVE. Babylon NY
St. Jude Donor '06 thru '20
IMO put a stock thermostat in with 6 1/8th inch holes in it. I have had some of Stant's thermostat's that were bad or went bad shortly after installing them.
The white car (415) has a Be-Cool unit in it. The car will run a bit warm for me (230deg) during the hot summer day's with the A/C on in traffic.
The green car (385) has a Ron Davis unit in it , will run 225 deg under the same summer conditions.
The RD unit cools off as soon as the car gets rolling , where the Be-Cool will take a while to do the same.
All readings were taken off the digital fan controller's and converted to F*.
The DeWitt units are recommended by others on the forum.
Oh and good luck. Post your finding's.
The white car (415) has a Be-Cool unit in it. The car will run a bit warm for me (230deg) during the hot summer day's with the A/C on in traffic.
The green car (385) has a Ron Davis unit in it , will run 225 deg under the same summer conditions.
The RD unit cools off as soon as the car gets rolling , where the Be-Cool will take a while to do the same.
All readings were taken off the digital fan controller's and converted to F*.
The DeWitt units are recommended by others on the forum.
Oh and good luck. Post your finding's.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
From: MA
http://www.zr1products.com/products.html
Not cheap but, others here have said good things about them. I think Dwight is running one in his 415..........Doc, any thoughts?
Not cheap but, others here have said good things about them. I think Dwight is running one in his 415..........Doc, any thoughts?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 682
Likes: 0
From: DesPlaines IL
Originally Posted by FU
The white car (415) has a Be-Cool unit in it. The car will run a bit warm for me (230deg) during the hot summer day's with the A/C on in traffic.
The green car (385) has a Ron Davis unit in it , will run 225 deg under the same summer conditions.
The RD unit cools off as soon as the car gets rolling , where the Be-Cool will take a while to do the same.
All readings were taken off the digital fan controller's and converted to F*.
The DeWitt units are recommended by others on the forum.
Oh and good luck. Post your finding's.
The green car (385) has a Ron Davis unit in it , will run 225 deg under the same summer conditions.
The RD unit cools off as soon as the car gets rolling , where the Be-Cool will take a while to do the same.
All readings were taken off the digital fan controller's and converted to F*.
The DeWitt units are recommended by others on the forum.
Oh and good luck. Post your finding's.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 37,049
Likes: 69
From: This city NEVER sleeps! Frank's back yard!
Originally Posted by 1990 QUASAR BLUE
http://www.zr1products.com/products.html
Not cheap but, others here have said good things about them. I think Dwight is running one in his 415..........Doc, any thoughts?
Not cheap but, others here have said good things about them. I think Dwight is running one in his 415..........Doc, any thoughts?
Oh yeah - and the 160 stat is great - keeps the temps down really well.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 175
From: IN
Hey all!
Okay, for us DIY's(I'm tired of paying other people to fix my cars lately... getting too damned expensive
), just how much fab work is needed to get a Ron Davis Radiator to fit? I've heard some say it's not bad, I've heard others say it's a complete pain to install. And while I'm in there.... What about a more efficient oil cooler?!?!?! It just never ends... *sigh*
Anyone have an idea on where to get the RD unit? So I should go with the 160 degree unit from ZR1products? Should I drill holes in it or??? I like the idea of the drilled stock thermostat vs. a $90 160 version... That's just 7 kinds of wrong to charge that much $$$ for a thermostat..
Good thread guys, thanks for the insight!
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
Okay, for us DIY's(I'm tired of paying other people to fix my cars lately... getting too damned expensive
), just how much fab work is needed to get a Ron Davis Radiator to fit? I've heard some say it's not bad, I've heard others say it's a complete pain to install. And while I'm in there.... What about a more efficient oil cooler?!?!?! It just never ends... *sigh*Anyone have an idea on where to get the RD unit? So I should go with the 160 degree unit from ZR1products? Should I drill holes in it or??? I like the idea of the drilled stock thermostat vs. a $90 160 version... That's just 7 kinds of wrong to charge that much $$$ for a thermostat..
Good thread guys, thanks for the insight!
Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not stock
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 203
Likes: 3
Brian,
In lieu of paying that prohibitive price for the 160d version, you could consider a stock unit with cut spring. The heavy spring, not the bypass spring.
I have used it on my car for at least three years, never a problem with radiators. Coolant runs <160 in the winter, and 180ish in the summer. You can work the fan on settings to run hotter or cooler than that.
Just my $0.02.
BTW, moved again? Your sig says Indianapolis. True?
Todd
(in Indy)
In lieu of paying that prohibitive price for the 160d version, you could consider a stock unit with cut spring. The heavy spring, not the bypass spring.
I have used it on my car for at least three years, never a problem with radiators. Coolant runs <160 in the winter, and 180ish in the summer. You can work the fan on settings to run hotter or cooler than that.
Just my $0.02.
BTW, moved again? Your sig says Indianapolis. True?
Todd
(in Indy)
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Hey Brian,
Why not give us a try? We make two row aluminum radiators and we are a forum sponsor. Our unit is only $495 and I'd give you free shipping. Check us out at http://www.dewitts.com
Why not give us a try? We make two row aluminum radiators and we are a forum sponsor. Our unit is only $495 and I'd give you free shipping. Check us out at http://www.dewitts.com
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 78
From: Winter Garden (central),FL,USA
Brian, I've been fortunate not to have had any issues w/ my stock unit. It has the drilled T-stat & that's it.
Have you tried a different T-stat? Your modded one may be a lemon...
My car does run a bit warm once it's stuck in traffic in the summer here. I'm wondering if a big-incher would run even hotter? Not that I could afford one now, anyways...
Have you tried a different T-stat? Your modded one may be a lemon...
My car does run a bit warm once it's stuck in traffic in the summer here. I'm wondering if a big-incher would run even hotter? Not that I could afford one now, anyways...
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,932
Likes: 116
From: LPE Aerobody 416 ci, Oklahoma
Brian,
I installed the RD in mine a couple of years ago and did not incur any of the fitment problems I've read about in the older threads. Getting the shroud off in the area of the AC lines was a bit of a hassle, requiring a little trimming to make it easier, but not the fault of the RD unit. I have a drilled (4 ea x 1/8") 180f t-stat installed, but have a 160f that will get drilled and installed when I get around to it. I like the drilled concept because it allows a measure of flow during warm up and also increases the total cross section for flow after the t-stat opens, thereby lowering back pressure across the radiator and reducing the potential for bypass.
Like Frank, I experience warmer temps with the 415. I think thats to be expected.
Jerry
I installed the RD in mine a couple of years ago and did not incur any of the fitment problems I've read about in the older threads. Getting the shroud off in the area of the AC lines was a bit of a hassle, requiring a little trimming to make it easier, but not the fault of the RD unit. I have a drilled (4 ea x 1/8") 180f t-stat installed, but have a 160f that will get drilled and installed when I get around to it. I like the drilled concept because it allows a measure of flow during warm up and also increases the total cross section for flow after the t-stat opens, thereby lowering back pressure across the radiator and reducing the potential for bypass.
Like Frank, I experience warmer temps with the 415. I think thats to be expected.
Jerry
Pro
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 618
Likes: 5
From: Pittsburgh PA
Hey Brian,
I have the big Fluidyne in my black car along with their bigger oil cooler. Both work well. Absolutely no installation issues. I would think you would know about the thermostat issues because thoses were documented many years ago and you've been around Zr1s for as long as I can remember.
good luck,
George
PS, GM thermostat drilled
I have the big Fluidyne in my black car along with their bigger oil cooler. Both work well. Absolutely no installation issues. I would think you would know about the thermostat issues because thoses were documented many years ago and you've been around Zr1s for as long as I can remember.
good luck,
George
PS, GM thermostat drilled
Last edited by BlackWidow#2; Aug 10, 2006 at 10:16 PM.