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THREE MONTHS AGO MY CAR WOULD NOT START.AFTER TRYING SEVERAL TIMES IT FINALLY JUST FIRED RIGHT UP.AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS ,NO PROBLEM, IT HAPPENED AGAIN HAD TO PUSH START THIS TIME.I READ A POST ABOUT A RELAY THAT STICKS.I THINK I WILL TRY THIS FIRST BEFORE CHANGING STARTER.IF ANYONE KNOWS THIS RELAY PART NO AND LOCATION I WOULD APPRECIATE IT,BY THE WAY THE CAR STARTED FINE WHEN I GOT IT HOME, AND I TRIED TWO DIFFERENT KEYS WHEN IT WOULD NOT START SO ITS NOT A VATS PROBLEM.
Pull drivers side hush panel. Find Purple wire that goes to clutch
switch. Look at switch and note the color of wire coming back
up.(Yellow??) Will be able to jumper them right there. I used a 3 in
wire with terminals on the end and unplugged the wires going to switch
and plugged in the jumper wire. Use a 12 ga wire at least as it does
carry a heavy current load which is why the switch fails, it gets hot
and the resistance across the points stops current flow.
my car had a similiar problem, wouldn't start after filling it up
on the road, waited 15 minutes, started right up. It happened again this year on my return from Marc Haibeck's getting some work done.
I called Marc, he explained sometimes the little bead on our keys get worn, or a little dirt builds up, or we push the key into the ignition
to fast, and the computer goes into a loop, 12 minutes later it will start.
I waited, and sure enough, pushed the key in a little slower and she
fired right up. food for thought.
my car had a similiar problem, wouldn't start after filling it up
on the road, waited 15 minutes, started right up. It happened again this year on my return from Marc Haibeck's getting some work done.
I called Marc, he explained sometimes the little bead on our keys get worn, or a little dirt builds up, or we push the key into the ignition
to fast, and the computer goes into a loop, 12 minutes later it will start.
I waited, and sure enough, pushed the key in a little slower and she
fired right up. food for thought.
I believe if it won't start due to a VATS problem, the "security" light will be blinking/lit. Also if your key is old, it can help to get a new one, the pellet gets worn down over time (it starts out a rectangle, but on older keys it looks like an oval) and I suspect doesn't make as good contact anymore.
Aurora40,Kmoudy and Zr-1 dude are all correct. The clutch starter switch could be the problem. (why mine is bypassed) and VATs if the security light is flashing. 100% correct
i was sure it wasnt a vats problem,i had my wife bring a different key before we pushed started.im thinking starter selenoid but im going to try relay first,thanks for info
This is a common problem for 90-92 Z's. By passing the ecm will eliminate 99% of the issue. Find the big purple wire under the ECM. You may have to dig for it, as it lays inside a fat wire harness found under the ECM. Get a 4 pole relay. Bring a 12 gauge wire from the battery to the relay, find a nice ground near the relay, and cut the purple wire as it will be plugged into two locations on the relay.
Make sure the battery is fully charged. Take a volt meter, and test the voltage on the purple wire while attempting to start. If it's under 10.5 volts, the above info will fix your problem.
You need to remove the black plastic panel above the driverside footwell. (The panel that contains the footwell lamp).
Lay on your back and look up at the bottom edge of the dash cluster area. The two relays towards the driverside door are the AC Clutch Relay and the one next to it towards the steering column is the Starter Enable Relay.
The relay covers are black and about 1 inch square. The relays are mounted in sockets and are the same so you can swap between them.