replacing the windshield
11-06-2007, 01:05 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
replacing the windshield
I think I'm gonna give up on my ZR-1 windshield and swap it out. Though it is otherwise perfect it is starting to delaminate (the yellow around the edges is showing). I am in the process of replacing the top/side seal so I figure it's time to do both.
1- are any of you doing your own replacement of the glass? I have a body man here helping me (the same one who finished the restoration of my concourse Mustang vert...and put the windshield back in that car).
2- are there any special "tricks" to this swap?
3- is there any difference in seals/parts if I swap to the standard windshield?
1- are any of you doing your own replacement of the glass? I have a body man here helping me (the same one who finished the restoration of my concourse Mustang vert...and put the windshield back in that car).
2- are there any special "tricks" to this swap?
3- is there any difference in seals/parts if I swap to the standard windshield?
Last edited by dallas916; 11-08-2007 at 09:25 AM.
11-06-2007, 01:16 PM
#2
Race Director
The windshields are the same (dimensionally). The trick is getting the old one out intact, be very carefull on the bottom, the lip will cause the windshield to crack if you try to push it out from the top. All the parts are the same.
11-07-2007, 01:23 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
OK. If I can get this ZR-1 windshield out without damaging it....is it worth anything to someone who wants an original GM one? It does have the yellowing about 1-1/2" around the top edge and a slight bit on the side edges. No scratches, no pits, no wiper marks, no damage.
11-11-2007, 02:34 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
OK. If I can get this ZR-1 windshield out without damaging it....is it worth anything to someone who wants an original GM one? It does have the yellowing about 1-1/2" around the top edge and a slight bit on the side edges. No scratches, no pits, no wiper marks, no damage.
I would have it removed professionaly, I bet you get $1500 bucks for it in the shape you describe (no kidding).. Not that I would pay that.
11-11-2007, 06:11 PM
#6
Dallas,
My windshield was replaced last week. Bought one from Kurt White. Watched the entire process and took some pictures. You will need to replace the weather strip ($300-$400 depending on who you but it from). The folks that did the replacements would not do it without replacing the side and top "reveal mouldings" ($475) and the rubber molding on both bottom corners of the windshield ($25). They told me that it was highly likely they would damage the reveal moldings when they removed them, and they did.
I purchased the weather strip from Kurt and he also sent the weatherstrip piece that covers the front part of the dash that the windshield rests on (or at least that is what it looked like to me). I purchased the moldings from my local dealer (at a discount, however if I did it again they would be from Tom Henry Chevy).
I asked them to spend the extra time to try and remove the old windshield in one piece, they did but it took extra time so as not to break it. They used a special tool, a long handled thing with a razor blade on the end, to cut the bottom urethane adhesive. That tool saved the weatherstrip piece on the front of the dash.
IMO, use a professional or at least someone who has knowledge of windshield replacement to do the job. You may be able to save the reveal moldings if one is very careful. Good luck. Oh, and they charged me $250 to do the replacement.
My windshield was replaced last week. Bought one from Kurt White. Watched the entire process and took some pictures. You will need to replace the weather strip ($300-$400 depending on who you but it from). The folks that did the replacements would not do it without replacing the side and top "reveal mouldings" ($475) and the rubber molding on both bottom corners of the windshield ($25). They told me that it was highly likely they would damage the reveal moldings when they removed them, and they did.
I purchased the weather strip from Kurt and he also sent the weatherstrip piece that covers the front part of the dash that the windshield rests on (or at least that is what it looked like to me). I purchased the moldings from my local dealer (at a discount, however if I did it again they would be from Tom Henry Chevy).
I asked them to spend the extra time to try and remove the old windshield in one piece, they did but it took extra time so as not to break it. They used a special tool, a long handled thing with a razor blade on the end, to cut the bottom urethane adhesive. That tool saved the weatherstrip piece on the front of the dash.
IMO, use a professional or at least someone who has knowledge of windshield replacement to do the job. You may be able to save the reveal moldings if one is very careful. Good luck. Oh, and they charged me $250 to do the replacement.
11-15-2007, 12:19 AM
#7
I know a guy in the Northern California area that has one of these windshield in used condition. The last time I seen the car a couple of years ago at the car show he mention that he had a OEM windshield that cost him over $4,000 which he was putting in cause he want the car perfect for NCRS judding. I'm sure he still has it if I correct.
11-16-2007, 12:26 PM
#8
Instructor
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Seriously, do these windshields have any value to them being used? Exactly what are these windshields worth anyways on the used market? Does anyone really know if there's really a need for them and at what price? Let's hear about it!
11-16-2007, 02:33 PM
#9
Race Director
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Here is what the NCRS manual states on the glass:
The windshields will have a tendancy to delaminate and looks like the window is streaked with a brownish film and needs to be cleaned. Check closely for this and deduct on condition.
Deduct on condition for scratches, racks, delaminating and pitting.
Deduct on originality for incorrect manufacturer.
Two letters placed below the LOF logo on the glass, represent glass date codes. The first letter in the code identifies the month of production; the second letter identifies the year the glass was manufactured.
Full credit is given for a windshield dated within 12 months prior to the vehicles assembly.
Deduct 20% for correct winshield dated outside the above range
Deduct 50% for incorrect replacements.
In the opinion of the judges, the condition of the windshield constitutes a safety hazard in the operation of the vehicle, additional deductions may be made up to 100% on condition. Such deductions require concurrence of the judging team leader or the meet judging chairman.
Deduct on condition for scratches, racks, delaminating and pitting.
Deduct on originality for incorrect manufacturer.
Two letters placed below the LOF logo on the glass, represent glass date codes. The first letter in the code identifies the month of production; the second letter identifies the year the glass was manufactured.
Full credit is given for a windshield dated within 12 months prior to the vehicles assembly.
Deduct 20% for correct winshield dated outside the above range
Deduct 50% for incorrect replacements.
In the opinion of the judges, the condition of the windshield constitutes a safety hazard in the operation of the vehicle, additional deductions may be made up to 100% on condition. Such deductions require concurrence of the judging team leader or the meet judging chairman.
So for a non delam correctly dated windshield, it's basically as high as the buyer wants to spend or thinks it's worth. For a delam piece that is within range is worth something.
11-16-2007, 03:35 PM
#10
Race Director
Dallas,
My windshield was replaced last week. Bought one from Kurt White. Watched the entire process and took some pictures. You will need to replace the weather strip ($300-$400 depending on who you but it from). The folks that did the replacements would not do it without replacing the side and top "reveal mouldings" ($475) and the rubber molding on both bottom corners of the windshield ($25). They told me that it was highly likely they would damage the reveal moldings when they removed them, and they did.
I purchased the weather strip from Kurt and he also sent the weatherstrip piece that covers the front part of the dash that the windshield rests on (or at least that is what it looked like to me). I purchased the moldings from my local dealer (at a discount, however if I did it again they would be from Tom Henry Chevy).
I asked them to spend the extra time to try and remove the old windshield in one piece, they did but it took extra time so as not to break it. They used a special tool, a long handled thing with a razor blade on the end, to cut the bottom urethane adhesive. That tool saved the weatherstrip piece on the front of the dash.
IMO, use a professional or at least someone who has knowledge of windshield replacement to do the job. You may be able to save the reveal moldings if one is very careful. Good luck. Oh, and they charged me $250 to do the replacement.
My windshield was replaced last week. Bought one from Kurt White. Watched the entire process and took some pictures. You will need to replace the weather strip ($300-$400 depending on who you but it from). The folks that did the replacements would not do it without replacing the side and top "reveal mouldings" ($475) and the rubber molding on both bottom corners of the windshield ($25). They told me that it was highly likely they would damage the reveal moldings when they removed them, and they did.
I purchased the weather strip from Kurt and he also sent the weatherstrip piece that covers the front part of the dash that the windshield rests on (or at least that is what it looked like to me). I purchased the moldings from my local dealer (at a discount, however if I did it again they would be from Tom Henry Chevy).
I asked them to spend the extra time to try and remove the old windshield in one piece, they did but it took extra time so as not to break it. They used a special tool, a long handled thing with a razor blade on the end, to cut the bottom urethane adhesive. That tool saved the weatherstrip piece on the front of the dash.
IMO, use a professional or at least someone who has knowledge of windshield replacement to do the job. You may be able to save the reveal moldings if one is very careful. Good luck. Oh, and they charged me $250 to do the replacement.
The windshield weatherstrip doesnt even cost that much from GM its under $300 and If you are a ZR1net member you get a discount from tom henry chevy.
The moldings can be removed without damaging them I know I have done it. Youll want to replace the weatherstrip retainer that is attached to the revel moldings.
Its just easier to replace them rather than reuse them with the old weathestrip glue and to take the time to clean the old glue out of them.
I just bought new retainers for $35 each or whatever it was and installed them then glue and watherstrip and its all good.
If you remove them all yourself and be sure to remove the interior molding as well so they dont destroy them then have them install the galss and then they can install the rest of the molding and weatherstrip it might not cost as much.
just a FYI
11-16-2007, 10:45 PM
#11
Safety Car
Member Since: Apr 2000
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I know a guy in the Northern California area that has one of these windshield in used condition. The last time I seen the car a couple of years ago at the car show he mention that he had a OEM windshield that cost him over $4,000 which he was putting in cause he want the car perfect for NCRS judding. I'm sure he still has it if I correct.
Art still has it and he wants to sell it but has to be picked up at his house. PM me if interested and I'll fill you in on the details.
11-18-2007, 06:46 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
This project started out as a weatherstrip replacement, and like most of the other maintenance on this car it has gone several more steps. The top ws is almost new because the whole thing was replaced by the dealer a few years ago. The front "A" pillar and top piece was the original target, but the original rear piece looked frumpy so it was replaced last week, too.
The side wipes were cracking so we pulled the door panels and started that project. Contrary to what the instructions given us with the new pieces, the windows have to be removed and it's not an easy job. The upside is that I found both door lock rod actuator clips in very poor condition and am replacing both. I just hope I can get the windows back in and aligned without ruining the tint. Thanks God for my expert body man who's doing most of the job.
Anyway...the windshield. I'm surprised the glass guy got phrog's old windshield out without damage. That particular tool is usually the problem because they are usually dealing with a throw-away piece of glass. My bodyman says the piano wire method is safer. He did a great job re-installing the windshield on my '66 Mustang and my '65 vette years ago so I'll trust his judgement. In fact, he already R&R'd the reveal mouldings, cleaned them out, and repainted them.
Tell me more about the codes on the glass.
The side wipes were cracking so we pulled the door panels and started that project. Contrary to what the instructions given us with the new pieces, the windows have to be removed and it's not an easy job. The upside is that I found both door lock rod actuator clips in very poor condition and am replacing both. I just hope I can get the windows back in and aligned without ruining the tint. Thanks God for my expert body man who's doing most of the job.
Anyway...the windshield. I'm surprised the glass guy got phrog's old windshield out without damage. That particular tool is usually the problem because they are usually dealing with a throw-away piece of glass. My bodyman says the piano wire method is safer. He did a great job re-installing the windshield on my '66 Mustang and my '65 vette years ago so I'll trust his judgement. In fact, he already R&R'd the reveal mouldings, cleaned them out, and repainted them.
Tell me more about the codes on the glass.
11-29-2007, 02:45 AM
#13
Race Director
You can get the trim off without screwing it up it just takes some time.I replaced the windshield in my car myself because I wont let anybody work on my cars,it was a total pain but Im glad I did it.The windshield frame can-will rust if it gets scratched in the process.I have one new piece of the trim if somebody wants it.$125 shipped.
12-04-2007, 05:05 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
They chickened out!!!
Yeah, I have all the mouldings out and everything ready to remove the glass...and the glass "pros" said they couldn't take the original out without breaking it. I called a couple of other shops and they also wouldn't guarantee safe removal. What
.
I think my body/paint guy might give it a go. He's done lots of these over the past 40-50 years, but we'll have to buy the wire and probably the razor tool, too.
SO! I need some extra details from those of you who watched the process being successfully done. Where did the insertion and cutting start? Which direction did they go? What did they do at the CORNERS???
Is there actually a online tutorial for this car?
Yeah, I have all the mouldings out and everything ready to remove the glass...and the glass "pros" said they couldn't take the original out without breaking it. I called a couple of other shops and they also wouldn't guarantee safe removal. What
. I think my body/paint guy might give it a go. He's done lots of these over the past 40-50 years, but we'll have to buy the wire and probably the razor tool, too.
SO! I need some extra details from those of you who watched the process being successfully done. Where did the insertion and cutting start? Which direction did they go? What did they do at the CORNERS???
Is there actually a online tutorial for this car?
12-04-2007, 06:30 PM
#15
Race Director
It's very difficult and takes ALOT of time and patience to get it out, and there is no guarantee even then that they won't break it. The uneven bottom makes it difficult to pivot out without cracking. One nick and it's gone, either imediately or shortly after re-installation. If the window has never been replaced, the adhesive gets really hard over the 15 or so years. They use either a wire, a long blade, or a hook like tool with a short blade. Usually a combination of the three.
12-05-2007, 04:38 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
It's a parts issue now. I called the local Chebby/vette dealer to get the rest of the sealing pieces for the windshield. I already have the pillar post and top weatherstrip (the big, fat one), and the reveal mouldings are cleaned out. But there's a lot more to the list than just these.
There are two hard rubber pieces that attach to the bottom of the windshield at each outer edge, going in to about 1/3 of the way toward the center. There is also a similar piece that goes below the channel that holds the fat top weatherstrip, and attaches to the top edge of the windshield. The dealer didn't show any of these pieces.
In fact, there are flat strips between the reveal mouldings and the windshield frame that the dealer also doesn't show on their computer.
If any of you have part nmumbers or sources for these small pieces I'd like to see 'em. The only other piece the dealer showed is #10236368, which I think is the piece that goes down between the glass and the dash to hide the glue.
There are two hard rubber pieces that attach to the bottom of the windshield at each outer edge, going in to about 1/3 of the way toward the center. There is also a similar piece that goes below the channel that holds the fat top weatherstrip, and attaches to the top edge of the windshield. The dealer didn't show any of these pieces.
In fact, there are flat strips between the reveal mouldings and the windshield frame that the dealer also doesn't show on their computer.
If any of you have part nmumbers or sources for these small pieces I'd like to see 'em. The only other piece the dealer showed is #10236368, which I think is the piece that goes down between the glass and the dash to hide the glue.
12-07-2007, 03:12 AM
#17
Race Director
There are 6 pieces total,the inner pieces are stainles steel? and are pretty tough,you should be able to reuse these.
12-07-2007, 01:26 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
12-07-2007, 03:48 PM
#19
Race Director
12-07-2007, 05:35 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Here's a pic of the pieces I can't identify from the dealership.
The piece at the top is the weatherstrip retainer (metal). The long piece below that is a hard rubber seal that goes under the retainer...but no part # exists. The two curved pieces at the lower left and right were attached to the bottom R&L edge of the glass like a door edge protector (channeled). Again, no part # seems to exist.
The center piece is the vent screen and frame. It is in pretty bad shape. I haven't checked to see if it's available but if anyone has a spare to sell I'd be interested.
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The piece at the top is the weatherstrip retainer (metal). The long piece below that is a hard rubber seal that goes under the retainer...but no part # exists. The two curved pieces at the lower left and right were attached to the bottom R&L edge of the glass like a door edge protector (channeled). Again, no part # seems to exist.
The center piece is the vent screen and frame. It is in pretty bad shape. I haven't checked to see if it's available but if anyone has a spare to sell I'd be interested.
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