WVZR-1

You need I believe an EC1618 from an Oreilly interchange!

Here's a link with the interchange notes!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Displ...ycleCount=1313

LowFlight

yup...I called them, I got the wrong part.

LowFlight

Well, I have the correct part coming in the morning. How many of you think this will fix the problem? Dwight is the only one who has had this occur and the sensor was a problem?

WVZR-1

I'd like to think you have!

You've confirmed likely with the substitution of the incorrect part that probably the connections to the parts and ECM are not disorientated or loose by setting a code. I would be tempted to reinstall the one removed, clear the codes and try the thing again!

Good Luck!

DDSLT5

I didn't have the problem you have - I suspected it was the sensor, changed the sensor - no change, replaced the original part, found the correct problem, solved it.

Sometimes these sensors get oil in them etc. I hope replacing it will solve your issue. It is really hard to diagnose over the internet, as I'm guessing you're discovering.

DDSLT5

Yes - do this - likely solve the problem.

LowFlight

I put the original back on....it went back to what it was doing before. NORMAL power 100% ok. With the key on, it stumbles and then when you bust on it...it falls on its face and knocks like crazy. no ses light.

DDSLT5...what part did you have to replace if it wasn't the sensor?

LowFlight

Can I do something to clean the connector prongs before I plug them in? Maybe some brake fluid got in there?

lbs90ZR

I use LPS electro contact cleaner, it lists on it that it's safe on plastics cause some other cleaners will crack or melt plastic as your watching it clean. Found that out on a cell phone. Also call me paranoid but I would unplug the the ecm first to avoid any possibility of electo static damage.

LowFlight

That is what I am wondering..the MDP is the only thing not brake related that I touched. I think I may have somehow caused a surge or zap to fry it...because I unplugged it without disconnecting the battery.

lbs90ZR

If the key was off I doubt if that would of happened, the sensor is not as sensitve to static damage as the ecm.

Don't try it, cause I don't know, but the map and mdp probably have the same resistance values, but if their static sensitive then you would have a lot of damaged sensors from the multimeter. Would be interesting to know though.

Actually I have a spare used map, I'll see what it is cause I kinda doubt if it will hurt it, in case you want to compare it to your old MDP since you have a new one on the way. Probably would have to put vaccum to it and run through the range to see if it''s really working right though.

LowFlight

I appreciate the options. It is only $35, if the sensor works tomorrow, I don't care about the why as much as the I just want to drive my freakin car and have it be dependable. It seems that 1/2 the time would be a high water mark for me

lbs90ZR

I know what your sayin, guess I'm bored, anyway it came up with two readings depending on which pins and there not marked on sensor, so would have to dig deeper to get right pins, oh well.

LowFlight

I had been told that it is difficult to test. Lets just hope that $35 and 5 minutes of work will fix this problem....otherwise it will be much much more needless hassle, time MONEY and stress

DDSLT5

My problem was totally different from yours, and unrelated, so I don't want to take you down the wrong path.

It is definitely secondary related. Does it fall on its face at low rpms too? If it is knocking, it is horribly lean, meaning very little fuel injected, and also meaning that the secondaries must be opening to let in extra air. The question is - why would the fuel not be flowing? It amazes me that you're getting such a huge drivability issue, yet no SES light.

I'm gonna sleep on this problem. I need time to let it percolate!

LowFlight

If you were in the car accelerating up to 65mph, as soon as you hit the throttle at above average you get an initial hesitation, then it does ok up to about 4000 rpm...then it loses power and knocks. If you give it more throttle AT THAT POINT, it knocks more and loses power AS you push harder. The good news is, it does NONE of this in NORMAL power, so it isn't spark plugs or wires etc...it is isolated to the secondary system.

Can a vacuum line pulled loose cause this? If it were an injector, at least we know it would be a secondary one. I am just brainstorming is the MDP sensor doesn't help. THough the manual says it can cause these kinds of problems.

Dominic Sorresso

LowFlight,

I just got my car on the road after finishing up a P&P. First drive out and I got an SES light. It would go on and off depending on TPS position. The calibration has a high TPS% for enabling Secondary Injectors. So as long as your below that, very likely for normal cruise, you won't get SES. Once you pass that point, code will set. Althought the car ran well, it was flat. Yours is knocking due to lean condition since secondaries aren't being turned on once you go past TPS% for Scdy. My problem was an unplugged vacuum line under the ECM to the Diff MAP sensor. Plugged it in, problem solved.

LowFlight

That is the plug that I unplugged to move the ecm out of the way. I am replacing that sensor today and we will see. Although I did not pull on it in any way, my second guess (and it is a guess since I haven't much help on this and know next to nothing about engines) is that I may have pulled it loose from the underplenum side wherever it connects. From your post, it looks like I am in the right area. Sensor, or vacuum line

ShawnZR-1

I'm going to join the camp that it is the sensor. My friend had some weird issues with his for a while before it actually set an SES light and code. Replaced the sensor and all was well.

You'd be amazed at what an intermittent connection can do in a system like this!

Dominic Sorresso

LF,

One way to check the sensor would be to apply vacuum using something like a MightyVac to the MAP sensor. You can use jumpers on the 5V Reference Signal and MAP Sensor Signal wires between the sensor and its male harness connector. When you apply vacuum, you should see voltage change with a connected DVM. Scantool would be nice to have also then you would just need to apply vacuum.
If you see V change, then its a vacuum problem.
To check that you could connect Mighty Vac to vacuum line T'd to a vacuum gauge. If it holds vacuum, line is ok.