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:eek: Combine way too high bottle pressure(1200psi), cold outside air(38f)and 3000rpm and what do you get? A big backfire! Oh Shiet!
Fortunately, the only casualty was the plastic air box. I blew it in half. :eek: I did a roadside tape job and fired it back up. No codes, no air leaks, smooth idle, everything seems cool!
Time for a road test. By this time the bottle pressure is down where it should be(900psi) and I'm ready to see if it is going to run right. I hopped back on the road and let it rip and hit the button. Yea baby! It stills runs like a scalded dog. :cheers:
I am lucky of course but the dry ZR-1 nitrous system obviously is better than a wet system if a manifold backfire ensues. If I had fuel in the manifold it would have been ugly. As it is, the only casualty was the $34 airbox. :cheers:
If I had fuel in the manifold it would have been ugly. As it is, the only casualty was the $34 airbox. :cheers:
YIKES!!! :eek: yeah a $34 air box instead of a $3400 intake manifold & related parts :crazy: Don't get greedy w/ the NOS :D
BTW, what kind of noise did that explosion make?
Later,
YIKES!!! :eek: yeah a $34 air box instead of a $3400 intake manifold & related parts :crazy: Don't get greedy w/ the NOS :D
BTW, what kind of noise did that explosion make?
Later,
A big pop. A buddy was behind us and he said a fireball came out the exhaust. :eek:
I'm just glad I didn't have a plenum full of fuel! :)
Can we say LUCKY!!! I made it through one nitrous backfire about 4 years ago and all it did was explode my airbox as well. It was a wet kit. My good friend had a nitrous backfire about a week later, and it turned his normally flat hood into a cowl hood with a new shape in it that looked just like his intake used to. Destroyed the whole intake, hood and some other stuff in there. We still have the hood hanging from his garage ceiling.
Thanks, I have to work on my bottle heater thermostat. For some reason it heats the bottle up to 1200psi and that combined with low rpm caused the backfire. Once I lowered the bottle pressure it worked like a champ.
do you have a NOS bottle pressure guage in the car??? I think the big problem with nitrous is failure to get the pressure correct or failure of a fuel selenoid. either way, problems. glad your car is ok cam. keep squeezin it!!
if you don't break something every now and then, you probably aren't trying hard enough!!! thanks for posting the "good and the bad" it really helps us learn from each other. stuff happens, even when you pay close attention ALL the time.
do you have a NOS bottle pressure guage in the car??? I think the big problem with nitrous is failure to get the pressure correct or failure of a fuel selenoid. either way, problems. glad your car is ok cam. keep squeezin it!!
if you don't break something every now and then, you probably aren't trying hard enough!!! thanks for posting the "good and the bad" it really helps us learn from each other. stuff happens, even when you pay close attention ALL the time.
I have a nitrous pressure gauge but it is behind me. I should relocate it to where it's more visible but, until now, I've always been more prepared before I've run.
I posted so that people that are on the fence about nitrous realize that there will be issues. In reality, most of these problems aren't that serious. I've seen a lot of nitrous backfires that were like mine and did not hurt anything. Occasionally there are those like My Y Car's backfire that ruin your day. Those are the chances you take when you race every weekend. :cheers:
Why was your bottle pressure so high? Was your heater not shutting off?
Yep, the bottle heater will heat it to 1200psi before the t-stat goes off. I need to rework the t-stat location to see if that can be improved.
The scenario was this, we were out and it was cold as hell. I let the car idle and had a window down with the heater blowing on max so I could warm up a little while we bench raced at our gathering spot. All this time my bottle heater was on too. It takes about 15 minutes to warm up the bottle and we bench raced for about 30 minutes before we headed for a local race spot. While we were heading out there we ran upon a GTS Viper and a couple of the guys were trying to bait him for a little race. He wouldn't play so as I was passing him I got the bright idea for a nitrous fly-by. I'm sure he enjoyed the light show. :eek:
You might want to try a purge solenoid also. They are good for controlling bottle pressure when it gets too high. I guess I should introduce myself so you'll know I'm not some ya hoo. This is the guy that works with Joel, the one with the pretty fast Rice you spoke with on the phone.
You might want to try a purge solenoid also. They are good for controlling bottle pressure when it gets too high. I guess I should introduce myself so you'll know I'm not some ya hoo. This is the guy that works with Joel, the one with the pretty fast Rice you spoke with on the phone.
David
What's up David, how's the DSM doing? Yes to the purge solenoid. I was in the car when it happened, it made a pretty little fireworks show. I could see it light up under the hood. No codes were coming up on the DIC, so I thought the airbox was the only casualty and in at least 10 peices but it split right up the mold seam. A little tape and 15 minutes late......fixed! You should have seen the look of relief on Cam's face. I would of had the same look BTW.
So are you a bit nervous now about hitting tha juice?
I don't think Cam is. We knew what happened and why. Lowered the bottle pressure to 950 (where it should have been) fixed the airbox and did about three test blasts. Worked fine and ran great. Just got a little complacent (sp?) about checking the bottle pressure. I'm sure Cam will fix it and it won't happen again. The GTS driver probably thought it was a drive by.
:D