starter problem
By the way, replacing the oil lines to the cooler solved my leak problems. You guys were right, she dripped (residual oil) for several days after the fix, but then completely stopped. Thanks again!
See Inspection, Testing and Reconditioning the Valley, Starter, and Coils
I had a NO START condition on this 90' and after I towed it for a start....got home and it fired right up. I would have liked to hot wire the starter (purple wire) when that happens to see if it is the starter or starter ground circuit. Or check that purple wire for 12 volts when I turn the switch to start. I lean toward ground circuit or sticky starter solenoid. Another indication would be if when you turn the ignition key to start do the lights dim for example indicating a current draw to the starter solenoid/starter.
If the solenoid does not move (no clicking indicating the Starter Solenoid moved) as in my case then a sticky Solenoid or Solenoid Ground Connection. If the Solenoid clicked/moved...then bad Solenoid contacts or bad connection Battery cable (Positive) to starter/battery or bad ground (Negative) engine to battery.
Installed a relay in the start circuit of the 90' identical to what I have on the 91'. This is one of those intermittent issues and does sound like poor electrical connections in either the Starter Negative Connections or Starter Positive Connections.
Starter Relay, Wiring Harness, Battery, and Plugs Tricks
The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.


The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.


Complete Starter Disassembly.
Photo provided by others.
Last edited by Dynomite; Jun 24, 2013 at 09:22 AM.
By the way, replacing the oil lines to the cooler solved my leak problems. You guys were right, she dripped (residual oil) for several days after the fix, but then completely stopped. Thanks again!
What does the security light do when this happens?
First thing is to make sure it it's not the security system behaving correctly
If its not getting the correct signal from the chip in the key.
Observing the security light when it happens serves to eliminate that first.
Then the clutch switch, ignition switch, and finally the starter.

Marty
1FUNZR1
This is why I say start with the key, and observe the security light.
then Battery, clutch switch, purple wire, and finally starter.
( whew, I really almost thought about a ZO6? )
05-25-2007, 09:28 PM #1
DRM500RUBYZR-1
CF Senior Member
1993 Chevrolet Corvette
My Corvette Photos
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Mullica Hill New Jersey No Start
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Memorial Day weekend. Get all packed tonight to go to the shore.
But, have to come back Sunday morning for a Corvette show.
Better get the ZR-1 down from the lift and have it ready to load and go early Sunday. Move cars around; lower Z; disconnect battery tender.
Get in; turn key; NOTHING.
All lights, gauges, dic lights, chimes, etc. but no start.
Pull out floor mat and weatherboots to make sure clutch pedal is going all the way down. Nothing.
Curse, turn key again and again, Nothing.
headlights fine; hook up battery pack anyway; nothing.
Now strange thoughts enter head..... Sell the damn thing and buy an 07 Z06........... No. Stupid thought over this. I then think of the dozens of no-start threads on this forum, thinking I'll have to go in and read em all. Where does that screw driver go to rap the starter........
purple wire...... Those guys are always saying drive it drive it....
I then see the security light..... Hmm. I wonder.
I rub the VATS element on the key. Nothing. But realize there is no click or dimming of the lights, no nothing when key is turned.
Curse more.
Decide to go look for the other keys with that stupid remote that I never use... 1/2 hour later, find them.
Change battery on remote. had the new battery for two years now, about time I put it in and use the silly thing.
Take new keys to garage. insert; turn, CRANK, surprises the crap out of me so i release the key. BACKFIRE!!!
Sh$#$#$##
Turn key again, smoke clears, starts, runs rough from the backfire, but smooths out.
All Fine.
The moral to the story...
Don't know why that ignition key picked now to lose it's resistance, but it did. So the VATS did it's thing, and prevented a start
Soooooo, always remember to try another key before going further into the no start causes.
All right, now I'll keep it and turn 12,000 miles.
Except now that stinkin remote and horn are going to drive me crazy..
maybe i could sell it and..................................... ....
Hope this helps someone!
Happy and THANKFUL Memorial Day
Marty
DRM500RUBYZR-1
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05-25-2007, 09:52 PM
By the way, replacing the oil lines to the cooler solved my leak problems. You guys were right, she dripped (residual oil) for several days after the fix, but then completely stopped. Thanks again!
When I got my Z delivered from California, it started right up. I drove it to the gas station filled up and then it would not start. I was pissed to say the least.
Turns out the driver side floor mat was not laying flat and was preventing the clutch pedal from being fully pushed to the floor.
I straightened out the mat, car started right up, and have never had trouble since.
May not be your problem but check the little things too.















