spark plugs
08-31-2017, 05:45 PM
#1
spark plugs
Is there anything easy on the zr1 to replace ? havn,t changed in years but is there a good way to change the plugs at the rear if so what wrench combination? changed out the map sensor which wasn't a 5 minute job but runs much better now near normal but started changing out the plugs now any help would be grateful.
08-31-2017, 07:48 PM
#2
Drifting
Nope, nothing easy or simple.
The only plug that's really tough to get at is #8, back one on the passenger side.
I use a spark plug socket with a swivel directly (magnetic spark plug sockets are the best as opposed to the rubber boot type) on it and a 3 inch extension. Long extensions with universal joints are helpful too for the others.
This should help.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....rk+plug+socket
H
The only plug that's really tough to get at is #8, back one on the passenger side.
I use a spark plug socket with a swivel directly (magnetic spark plug sockets are the best as opposed to the rubber boot type) on it and a 3 inch extension. Long extensions with universal joints are helpful too for the others.
This should help.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....rk+plug+socket
H
Last edited by ccmano; 08-31-2017 at 07:52 PM.
09-01-2017, 10:41 AM
#3
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The AC box has a removable section for better access to the last plug on the passenger side.
09-01-2017, 05:19 PM
#4
Drifting
09-02-2017, 09:27 AM
#6
Instructor
09-02-2017, 10:31 AM
#7
Tech Contributor
09-02-2017, 10:55 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
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Note: wrapping the tool with a few layers of electrical tape where it pries against the cam cover will prevent chipping the paint...ask me how I know
)
Last edited by Paul Workman; 09-02-2017 at 10:58 AM.
09-04-2017, 12:32 PM
#9
Pro Mechanic
Pro Mechanic
Getting the boots off w/o pulling on the wire is easy if you have a tool which can get under the top of the boot. ZRoner Steve Jasik in No. California made some tools for that. I gave mine to the new owner when I sold my '95. The tool worked quite well.
What also works is the tool Paul Workman discusses above, but you can find plastic versions of the tool–so you don't have to wrap it with tape. I got plastic body panel fastener removal tools from the Eastwood Co.
As for getting the spark plugs out, again, it's easy with the right tools. To get 6 and 8, it's easy if you have the following:
A ⅜-drive plug socket with an integral u-joint
A ⅜-drive, one-inch extension.
A second ⅜-drive u-joint.
A longer ⅜-drive extension
A ⅜-drive plug ratchet or a ⅜-drive T-handle
Assemble the plug socket, one-inch extension and the second u-joint. Stick that tool stack on your long extension. Drop the tool stack into a plug hole. Add your ratchet or T-handle and getting plugs in and out is easy.
With that rig, you can change all the plugs in 15-min or less.
What plug to use? For normal street driving, I used the Denso IT-20. For aggressive street driving or track use, the Denso IT-22. I ran Denso IT-22s all the time and never had any trouble with fouling.
You even can use the Densos in the early heads which take flat seat plugs by doing a one time forming of the conical seat. You "overtorque" the plugs to 25-lbs ft, then back them off then retighten to 15.
What also works is the tool Paul Workman discusses above, but you can find plastic versions of the tool–so you don't have to wrap it with tape. I got plastic body panel fastener removal tools from the Eastwood Co.
As for getting the spark plugs out, again, it's easy with the right tools. To get 6 and 8, it's easy if you have the following:
A ⅜-drive plug socket with an integral u-joint
A ⅜-drive, one-inch extension.
A second ⅜-drive u-joint.
A longer ⅜-drive extension
A ⅜-drive plug ratchet or a ⅜-drive T-handle
Assemble the plug socket, one-inch extension and the second u-joint. Stick that tool stack on your long extension. Drop the tool stack into a plug hole. Add your ratchet or T-handle and getting plugs in and out is easy.
With that rig, you can change all the plugs in 15-min or less.
What plug to use? For normal street driving, I used the Denso IT-20. For aggressive street driving or track use, the Denso IT-22. I ran Denso IT-22s all the time and never had any trouble with fouling.
You even can use the Densos in the early heads which take flat seat plugs by doing a one time forming of the conical seat. You "overtorque" the plugs to 25-lbs ft, then back them off then retighten to 15.
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billschroeder5842 (09-04-2017)
11-27-2017, 01:09 PM
#10
cooler lines oil leaks at connections 91 zr1
leaks at the connector nuts oil cooler lines up top, any easy remedy? o ring or something else I sure this is a common problem 4000 miles on engine
11-27-2017, 02:46 PM
#11
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11-27-2017, 06:46 PM
#12
Wow
11-30-2017, 03:13 AM
#13
Race Director
I’ve got a kit I put together to change the spark plugs, easily done in less than an hour and that’s with putting NEVER-SEIZE on the threads,wiping down the plug wires and the cam covers.
11-30-2017, 08:19 PM
#14
Zen Vet Master Level VII
12-01-2017, 09:01 AM
#15
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Getting the boots off w/o pulling on the wire is easy if you have a tool which can get under the top of the boot. ZRoner Steve Jasik in No. California made some tools for that. I gave mine to the new owner when I sold my '95. The tool worked quite well.
What also works is the tool Paul Workman discusses above, but you can find plastic versions of the tool–so you don't have to wrap it with tape. I got plastic body panel fastener removal tools from the Eastwood Co.
As for getting the spark plugs out, again, it's easy with the right tools. To get 6 and 8, it's easy if you have the following:
A ⅜-drive plug socket with an integral u-joint
A ⅜-drive, one-inch extension.
A second ⅜-drive u-joint.
A longer ⅜-drive extension
A ⅜-drive plug ratchet or a ⅜-drive T-handle
Assemble the plug socket, one-inch extension and the second u-joint. Stick that tool stack on your long extension. Drop the tool stack into a plug hole. Add your ratchet or T-handle and getting plugs in and out is easy.
With that rig, you can change all the plugs in 15-min or less.
What plug to use? For normal street driving, I used the Denso IT-20. For aggressive street driving or track use, the Denso IT-22. I ran Denso IT-22s all the time and never had any trouble with fouling.
You even can use the Densos in the early heads which take flat seat plugs by doing a one time forming of the conical seat. You "overtorque" the plugs to 25-lbs ft, then back them off then retighten to 15.
What also works is the tool Paul Workman discusses above, but you can find plastic versions of the tool–so you don't have to wrap it with tape. I got plastic body panel fastener removal tools from the Eastwood Co.
As for getting the spark plugs out, again, it's easy with the right tools. To get 6 and 8, it's easy if you have the following:
A ⅜-drive plug socket with an integral u-joint
A ⅜-drive, one-inch extension.
A second ⅜-drive u-joint.
A longer ⅜-drive extension
A ⅜-drive plug ratchet or a ⅜-drive T-handle
Assemble the plug socket, one-inch extension and the second u-joint. Stick that tool stack on your long extension. Drop the tool stack into a plug hole. Add your ratchet or T-handle and getting plugs in and out is easy.
With that rig, you can change all the plugs in 15-min or less.
What plug to use? For normal street driving, I used the Denso IT-20. For aggressive street driving or track use, the Denso IT-22. I ran Denso IT-22s all the time and never had any trouble with fouling.
You even can use the Densos in the early heads which take flat seat plugs by doing a one time forming of the conical seat. You "overtorque" the plugs to 25-lbs ft, then back them off then retighten to 15.
I came up with that socket/extension combo too. #8 is no harder than #2. I never give it any thought anymore.Also, after trying several plug sockets over the years, I bought a Craftsman with the swivel attached. Worth every penny!
FYI...Pete Polatsidis put me onto the AC Delco 41-602 plugs.
Drag strip or cruising they've never failed to please. And, @ about $2 apiece I can afford new ones every season if I want; assuring I always have fresh plugs. Oh, the rare earth plugs are sexy and prolly last longer, but I can't fault the - 602s (gapped @ .35-.40).
12-01-2017, 02:10 PM
#16
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12-05-2017, 08:49 PM
#18
Pro
12-06-2017, 08:56 AM
#19
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Only time I removed this was to refinish the cam covers on my 93. Just posted because most owners are not aware of it.
Last edited by FASTAZU; 12-06-2017 at 08:56 AM.