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Is E15 Fuel safe for Our Cars?

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Old 01-22-2018, 04:57 AM
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KJL
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[QUOTE=Dominic Sorresso;1596425767]Did you got to ALDLdroid and select the correct .adx for your vehicle?
Also, sometimes w BT, you will need to disconnect and reconnect ALDLdroid to the ECM. The connection can be a little buggy at first but it works well after that.[/QUOTE
Not sure. They were not real clear as to how to do that. When I first paired with it a file name popped up. I believe it was the adx file. I selected it and then it asked me for the PIN number.
Old 01-22-2018, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Did you got to ALDLdroid and select the correct .adx for your vehicle?
Also, sometimes w BT, you will need to disconnect and reconnect ALDLdroid to the ECM. The connection can be a little buggy at first but it works well after that.
How do I do that? After pairing it did not seem to offer that option. It just immediately tried to connect.
Old 01-22-2018, 10:02 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by KJL
How do I do that? After pairing it did not seem to offer that option. It just immediately tried to connect.
Go to Settings. There u will have a choice of datatreams that are included. Choose the correct one for your year ZR-1. Then go back to Connect to ECU.
Old 01-23-2018, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Go to Settings. There u will have a choice of datatreams that are included. Choose the correct one for your year ZR-1. Then go back to Connect to ECU.
Thanks! Will try it when I get home on Thursday.
Old 01-25-2018, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Go to Settings. There u will have a choice of datatreams that are included. Choose the correct one for your year ZR-1. Then go back to Connect to ECU.
How do I know which file? I see there are date ranges and there are several that include 1995.

Last edited by KJL; 01-25-2018 at 10:49 PM.
Old 01-25-2018, 11:26 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by KJL
How do I know which file? I see there are date ranges and there are several that include 1995.
If your ZR is a 95, then you want to select the .adx for $F0 ECU mask.
That’s the correct one for 93-95 ZRs.
Old 01-26-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
If your ZR is a 95, then you want to select the .adx for $F0 ECU mask.
That’s the correct one for 93-95 ZRs.
This is getting funny because obviously I have no business attempting this if I don't somehow know which file on the list is for my $FO ECU Mask.

I will contact them to see if they can direct me to correct file.
Old 01-26-2018, 11:30 AM
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Follow this sequence. Then go back to Menu and click on Connect to ECU.
Attached Images    

Last edited by Dominic Sorresso; 01-26-2018 at 11:31 AM.
Old 01-26-2018, 12:00 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Follow this sequence. Then go back to Menu and click on Connect to ECU.
That is what I was doing....those options are not there. It starts with the "A's". There are none in the list that start with $FO.

I have contacted the andriod app folks. I think the $FO file is available but not sure how to get it uploaded into the app if I find it.
Old 01-26-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by KJL
That is what I was doing....those options are not there. It starts with the "A's". There are none in the list that start with $FO.

I have contacted the andriod app folks. I think the $FO file is available but not sure how to get it uploaded into the app if I find it.
Passed emissions!!!

New cats
New NGK plugs heat range 7
New O2 sensors
Oil change
Increased the windshield washer bubba injection from 30 gauge syringe to a 25 gauge.
1 quart of denatured alcohol in a near full tank
Slightly over tire pressure
No EGR

Old numbers (water inject only w/30 gauge needle):
Nox 25/25 998
50/15 1096
New numbers:
Nox 25/25 422
50/15 533

My initial numbers before any of the above changes, the old numbers above were just using water injection so you see there was an improvement just using that:
Nox 25/25 1255
50/15 1448

Last edited by KJL; 01-27-2018 at 12:09 PM.
Old 02-04-2018, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Follow this sequence. Then go back to Menu and click on Connect to ECU.
it appears to be working now! It is amazing how much data there is. How do I derive my air fuel ratio? Is see the counts and the intergrator value but not sure how to turn this into something I can understand?
Old 02-05-2018, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by KJL


it appears to be working now! It is amazing how much data there is. How do I derive my air fuel ratio? Is see the counts and the intergrator value but not sure how to turn this into something I can understand?
Once u r finished w the logging session by Menu > Stop Datalogging, then
> Manage Datalogs > and u have a choice of viewing or dropbox or email.
I email and then use Excel to open the .csv file that ALDLdroid creates. ALDL creates a zip file to email.
If you go to my thread on Tuning the LT5, I have an example of the spreadsheet that u will see.
Old 02-05-2018, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
Once u r finished w the logging session by Menu > Stop Datalogging, then
> Manage Datalogs > and u have a choice of viewing or dropbox or email.
I email and then use Excel to open the .csv file that ALDLdroid creates. ALDL creates a zip file to email.
If you go to my thread on Tuning the LT5, I have an example of the spreadsheet that u will see.
Got it.
I guess I was expecting wide band type O2 ratio data. I see now where it is narrow band based on the block learn multiplier and integrator values. I am not sure how you dial in tune with this info but it would seem to me having wide band info at various RPMs would be a best case scenario. Perhaps I will add an O2 sensor bung onto my system for my LM-1 wide band. I do have a couple of dyno runs with wide band data logged.
Old 02-05-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by KJL
Got it.
I guess I was expecting wide band type O2 ratio data. I see now where it is narrow band based on the block learn multiplier and integrator values. I am not sure how you dial in tune with this info but it would seem to me having wide band info at various RPMs would be a best case scenario. Perhaps I will add an O2 sensor bung onto my system for my LM-1 wide band. I do have a couple of dyno runs with wide band data logged.
You would use WB O2 data if u are tuning in Open Loop and WOT(which is also Open Loop). Otherwise, you use the BLMs for Closed Loop. Part of the reason is that contrary to popular belief, a 128 BLM does not necessarily equal 14.7:1
Stoich.
Altho I have both Intake and Exhaust cams plus porting, I tune using
C/L. I do that because of the parameters that C/L makes available.

Last edited by Dominic Sorresso; 02-05-2018 at 01:27 PM.
Old 02-05-2018, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso
You would use WB O2 data if u are tuning in Open Loop and WOT(which is also Open Loop). Otherwise, you use the BLMs for Closed Loop. Part of the reason is that contrary to popular belief, a 128 BLM does not necessarily equal 14.7:1
Stoich.
Altho I have both Intake and Exhaust cams plus porting, I tune using
C/L. I do that because of the parameters that C/L makes available.
Very interesting and makes perfect sense. I am torn regarding the future on my 95. I love the car and how it drives but would love to pep it up a little perhaps just going the cam and head porting route. It currently is at 400rwhp. After years of dealing with the aftermath of major engine work, I have grown a bit gun shy of a full out 415 or bigger engine modification. There always seems to be negative fallout of some sort and with all the builders so far away who work ion ZR1's, it is not like I can just drop my car off and have them take a look at it..... I had a very bad experience with a local (high regarded) race engine builder when building my 434 SBC for my 72. It is like I am snake bit when it comes to anything I do to my cars that I don't do myself. I could write a book on it.

Last edited by KJL; 02-05-2018 at 01:45 PM.
Old 02-05-2018, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KJL
Very interesting and makes perfect sense. I am torn regarding the future on my 95. I love the car and how it drives but would love to pep it up a little perhaps just going the cam and head porting route. It currently is at 400rwhp. After years of dealing with the aftermath of major engine work, I have grown a bit gun shy of a full out 415 or bigger engine modification. There always seems to be negative fallout of some sort and with all the builders so far away who work ion ZR1's, it is not like I can just drop my car off and have them take a look at it..... I had a very bad experience with a local (high regarded) race engine builder when building my 434 SBC for my 72. It is like I am snake bit when it comes to anything I do to my cars that I don't do myself. I could write a book on it.
I’m sitting at 453+ rwhp and 405+rwtq. Both Marc Haibeck and Pete the Greek are very reputable. Pete has done the work on my heads and cam setup. No hesitation whatsoever w either of them.
Pete is putting together a “reasonably” priced Closed Deck 390 that should be in the 600hp range.
Old 02-05-2018, 02:12 PM
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I found Pete's thread regarding the close deck approach. Looks sweet! Well....I could either push money into my current cars or buy a new ZR1..... for 10 times more money.....I wonder if it would be 10 times more fun?

Last edited by KJL; 02-05-2018 at 02:59 PM.

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Old 02-08-2018, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KJL
Passed emissions!!!

New cats
New NGK plugs heat range 7
New O2 sensors
Oil change
Increased the windshield washer bubba injection from 30 gauge syringe to a 25 gauge.
1 quart of denatured alcohol in a near full tank
Slightly over tire pressure
No EGR

Old numbers (water inject only w/30 gauge needle):
Nox 25/25 998
50/15 1096
New numbers:
Nox 25/25 422
50/15 533

My initial numbers before any of the above changes, the old numbers above were just using water injection so you see there was an improvement just using that:
Nox 25/25 1255
50/15 1448
Good work! And clever....with the water injection.

I didn't read every post with great patience. I skimmed but didn't notice anything about controlling temps. Will limiting upper temps via larger fans and/or fan programming do anything for NOx emissions? I was under that impression and used that strategy in my build. (Still need bigger fans to lower limit to 200-210 degrees but I don't have to pass emissions in my state anyway. Just wanted to do it....for the sake of doing it,

Old 02-08-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Good work! And clever....with the water injection.

I didn't read every post with great patience. I skimmed but didn't notice anything about controlling temps. Will limiting upper temps via larger fans and/or fan programming do anything for NOx emissions? I was under that impression and used that strategy in my build. (Still need bigger fans to lower limit to 200-210 degrees but I don't have to pass emissions in my state anyway. Just wanted to do it....for the sake of doing it,

I believe Marc's chip turns the fans on at 205F which does lower combustion temps. Every little bit helps. I honestly believe it was the water that made the biggest difference. It got me to very close to passing without doing anything. By up-sizing the needle gauge, I effectively double the inside diameter likely more than doubling the flow on the passing run. I did this just to pass. I removed it and have it at the ready for my next test in 2018. After 2019 I can throw it all away!!
Old 02-08-2018, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KJL
I believe Marc's chip turns the fans on at 205F which does lower combustion temps. Every little bit helps. I honestly believe it was the water that made the biggest difference.
I agree with that.

I have my (non-Z 383) turning on at 190...with aux adding in at 205 myself. That's not enough to keep temps at/below 205 in my case. That's why I asked. In my case, I need more fan.

Could be my dbl-row radiator isn't the best OR boring .030" over created that much extra heat.


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