fxkenny

Looked at this 1990 yesterday. The car has 34k miles and appears to be an "honest" car. Have a few questions and hope everyone will put in their 2 cents worth.
The car has not been detailed or made ready for sale in any way. Probably been a while since it was even washed. Everything appears to operate properly except the radio. Comes on, antenna goes up, but no reception. Have to check it out further. Any ideas?
The windshield has some delamination. About a 2" strip across the top & a small amount around the cutout. Also, I think this may be a replacement windshield as the cutout looks to be smaller than what I remember. See pic.
The wheels I am not quite sure about. Seems like I remember the centers being silver and not black like these? Also, the tires have good tread, but fronts are dated 3807 and the rears 2212. May be getting a little old? Especially the fronts? Factory locks are in place and tool is in the holder in console.
Car has both tops. Glass top shows no cracking. Still has decals at inside front center. Rachet tool is in place in console.
Was not able to put car on rack yet, but by crawling around I could not see anything that looked concerning. Small amount of oil on bottom of pan, but not very much. Pic shows signs that front frame has rubbed some. Probably normal?
Interior shows very little wear. Drivers seat has small wear spot on left bolster.
Engine has some discoloration on plenum & valve covers. Not bad, but they don't look new. Engine is very dry. Only sign of leaking is from small amount of oil on bottom of oil pan. Can investigate further when I lift it if I proceed. No indication the engine has had a wrench on it except maybe the plenum. Owner thinks the injectors were changed a few years ago but has no documentation. Spark plug wires appear to be original with the proper markings. Car had not been started for over a week before I fired it up. Timing chain rattled for a short period and stopped. Car idles properly and seems to do what it is supposed to. Power key works & secondaries seem to engage the best I could tell by driving.
All the "Pizza Box" seems to be there, even the 2 thin cardboard sheets used to pack it.
EDIT 10/16: Asking price is 20K. Have not tried to negotiate yet.
Would appreciate any and all feed back. I know if I proceed with interest I will lift the car and inspect in more detail. Check #'s etc.
Everybody pitch in !!

whichvette

How much is car listed for?

ccmano

Looks like a nice original car. Original owner? Wheel centers were originally silver (like the rest of the wheel) not black. Probably just a cosmetic thing. Smaller windshield cut out is normal for a 90. Only later cars got the bigger one. Delamination is common this sounds about avg. Radio issue is likely the amps, very common, easy fix. Oil leak is likely the pan bolts, also common. Possibly also the oil cooler hoses or the oil pressure sensors. As to other areas, look for repaint and overspray, functionality of all interior controls, seats especially. Make sure headlights go up and work. Check wheel bearings for looseness, a common C4 issue. Make sure the vacuum pump runs, but runs sparingly not constantly. Obviously no dash lights should be on. Give it a good long drive, kick in of the secondaries should be evident. I’m sure others will bring up a few areas I missed. Appears to be a nice original car with low but not too low miles. What are they asking for it?
H

zrc3john

At 34K the injectors were probably swapped out...C-4s are low so the bottom rubbing at times is normal, of course you can be careful if you know a dip in the pavement is coming....

The paint around the center cap should not be black,most likely painted not a big deal...Oil around the bottom of pan is normal,providing its not a steady leak.....Over time the nuts on the oil pan loosen a little and need to be tightened..

Make sure all three settings on ride control work..
Radios and speaker amps in these cars over time have issues, not a big deal...

Make sure secondary open..All though you said you feel they did......Drive it in both, key off, key on you should notice the difference....

Good time to buy.....Start low on your pricing..

cv67

All good tips. You need to give a price, op to get an opinion

Have you tried all the electronics, HVAC etc? Made sure the secondarys open properly? Trans

1LEZ

Most common color combo so least desirable from a collector standpoint. If thats not a huge concern to you then it usually helps drive the sell price down

ZR WON

[QUOTE=Smaller windshield cut out is normal for a 90. Only later cars got the bigger one.
QUOTE]

This is backwards. Early cars had the large cutout, later had the smaller version. That means this car very likely has the original windshield.

Brian A.
90 ZR-1
12.09@118
01 Z06
not quite stock

zrc3john

If you have 23K to spend go on the ZR-1 Registry and buy Randy Ransones modded 91......Just buy it....I have no affiliation with him, but the car is an excellent deal and its red...

ccmano

[quote=zr won;1595769508]Correct, I got it backwards.
H

shawn 84&92

Pm sent

Z51JEFF

Without a price you're kinda dead in the water here Chief.

fxkenny

Thanks everyone for the feed back.
A few things here I would like clearification on.
So it appears to have the correct original windshield?
How would you recommend checking the vac. pump? I did check and it is not running constantly, but never heard it come on either.
The wheels have black aroung the center and also on the "spokes". Not a big deal?
Am I correct in thinking the tires should be changed because of age ? Fronts are 10 years old & rears are 5.
Shawn I got your PM. Think I responded if I did it right. Thanks.
Asking on the car is 20K. I have not tried to negotiate as I want to have as much info as possible before making an offer if I even want to make an offer.

whichvette

16.5k to 17.5 sounds good

randy ransome

I have this car for sale for $23,000. It's at Gateway Classic Cars but I'm going to pick it up tomorrow to sale myself.

http://gatewayclassiccars.com/nashvi...ette-S381.html

JayhawkCPA

Yes, you definitely need new tires. I would price that in.

fxkenny

Randy:
I have seen your car for sale. A very nice example.
I have not really been looking for a ZR1, but the one I am looking at is right down the road and a twin to the new one I bought in '90. This got me interested, but not even sure I will buy yet. Just gathering info and refreshing my memory from 20 years ago.

Dynomite

Disconnect a vacuum line from the pump and the pump should come on with key on. If NOT, your secondaries will not function. After you get the pump working, it should cycle slowly say every 30 seconds if minimal vacuum leaks, The pump should NOT run continuously with key on.

Typical ZR-1 Restorations
Summary of ZR1 Restorations including 95' Crate Engine

fxkenny

What are reccomendations on tires? If I get the car I intend to drive it, but probably only in nice weather.
See some Nitto's at pretty good pricing but am not familiar with that brand. Also a lot of different tread types.
Really appreciate all the replys. VERY helpful.

Paul Workman

Much over 5 years on Nitto 555 and 555rs = time to replace. Same on the G1 GS D3s (shown) in the pix.

Most of my driving is basic highway and very little city driving. To say just when tires need to be replaced because of age, I recon it depends mostly on who is driving what and were and how often. But, I do like the occasional chance to push the twisties a bit, and when I lean into some well known curve situations and the tires start to yield (skid/squeal, etc) when the hadn't before, THAT tells me "its time".

So, when I notice traction starts give, it seems that rubber that has been on my two Corvettes for 5 years (driving seasons), it's time for them to be retired. And, this holds true for BFG KWDs, GY G1 GS D3s, and Nitto 555/555Rs, regardless of the remaining tread.

But, again... If you're into drag racing or tracking your car or live in the mountains where you can indulge yourself regularly, YMMV. I know that tires on my truck lasted for less than half as many miles when I lived in Colorado than the same tires do here in 'the flats'.


FWIW, IMO the G1 D3 are very tough to beat for all-round driving, especially when pavement is wet. However, they ain't no drag radial on the drag strip, I can tell ya. (I had to feather them almost all the way through 1st gear, and moderate in 2nd as well!)

The 555/555R Nittos I like because in my experience they stick better in aggressive driving situations when dry conditions avail (and I always try to "be ready" for an opportunity). The work much better than the GY 'D3s on the drag strip, But, boy howdy! The 555Rs get pretty squirrely if there rain water sheeting on the highway, I can tell ya. (According to Robert DeMarco, the Nitto G2s are much better in the rain, but I haven't tried a set yet.)

As for the BFG KWDs, I only inherited them on my first Vette. They seemed to work very well when dry/warm, but I can say too they are for crap on sub freezing surfaces, especially if covered with the least bith of snow or frost! But, after all, cold is NOT what they were designed for. And, the drag radial version wasn't very happy in the rain either. That said, I haven't seen BFG DRs in our sizes in over a decade!

But, I digress...

fxkenny

Paul:
Thanks for the info. I would think that 5 year tire life would be about all someone should expect. Not going to wear them out, but sure don't want to risk throwing tread. I have seen the results of tire tread and fiberglass getting together. NOT Pretty!!