scarabexc

Dredgeguy

Post up on the ZR-1 Net Registry forum and you will get lots of assistance and many are in TX.

Tomcat74

Hello,
Their are Texas folks I'm sure be glad to help out. Change the oil, Tranny fluid, rear end fluid, brake fluid, anti-freeze not the 20/20 mix or the pink stuff, flush with Di-water. As per the last post, go over to ZR1.net you'LL get lots of help.Manfred E..
91 #906

A26B

More than likely, when you remove the pump sender assy to clean the tank, you are going to find the fuel pump sender badly rusted. In lieu of buying a new sender/pump assembly initially, I suggest you clean it up & put new fuel pumps in the old sender (yes, there are 2 pumps for the ZR-1).

Change the fuel filter

Drain, Flush & replace the coolant, use only the cheap, green stuff.

I have customers who found the fuel rails & injectors so gummed up from old fuel that replacement was necessary. You may be ahead of the game to go ahead & pull the plenum, for 2 reasons; (1) Very common to find mice have taken up residence under the plenum & have damaged the wiring & secondary port throttle vacuum system, and (2) you should remove all 16 of the fuel injectors & have them cleaned & flush the fuel rails.

All you will need for the plenum R&R is a set of plenum gaskets & a new set of O-rings for the injectors & the fuel feed & return block (located Rt-Rear of the plenum).

Remove all plugs squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil or diesel in each cylinder & turn the engine over completely a few times.

Do this & you will be less likely to have problems or damage the engine.

Google LT5 Gaskets to find everything you need.

ccmano

Very cool... how many miles on it?

Here’s a Haibeck article on exactly what your getting into. Starting a Z that’s been sitting a long time.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...0Awakening.pdf

If you need gaskets and parts you will find everything here...
http://www.jerrysgaskets.com

Good luck.
H

81c3

You're not planning on parting out are you? Looks like a great find especially if theres no engine issues....

XLR8TIN

http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/

shawn 84&92

A buddy told me about this car a few weeks ago, he was thinking about checking it out. Good luck, I hope she purrs like a kitten!

ghlkal

Nice find.

I hope this works out for you.

Dynomite

Like Jerry (A26B) suggests......the fuel rails will most likely be completely dried out and gummed up along with the Fuel Pressure Regulator ccmano has a Fuel Rail with Fuel Pressure Regulator for sale on the Registry. I would also assume the Fuel Injectors will need to be replaced as well as spark plugs.

When plugs are out I would inspect the cylinders and "squirt" something in (WD40 or oil of some sort) to coat the cylinder walls and rings before you attempt to start the engine. Oh ya....and new battery. The Preparation cited will require you to remove the Plenum and do a top end before you start the engine.

When you are ready....I would first crank the engine with plugs removed to get oil slowly pumped into the camshaft area. As Marc describes (see ccmano post above) I would pressurize the oil system to 30 psi before I crank the engine.

Click on Marc's Link (cited by ccmano above)..... The Great Awakening

But first......change ALL fluids LT5/ZR-1 Fluids

TOP END RESTORATIONS SUMMARY
Post 62 - 1990 (#2067) LT5 Top End Rebuild (C5 Z06./Wilwood Brakes, SW Headers, Aluminum Radiator)
Post 76 - 1991 (#1427) LT5 Rebuild (C5 Z06/Wilwood Brakes, SW Headers, Ron Davis Radiator)
Post 119 - 1990 (#3032) LT5 Top End Rebuild (Fluidyne Radiator)
Post 133 - 1990 (#0072) LT5 Top End Rebuild (Ron Davis Radiator)
Post 230 - 1995 (#0186) LT5 Specific Top End Rebuild (C5 Z06/Wilwood Brakes, Fluidyne Radiator)
Post 261 - 90’ (#8550) Corvette (L98) Modifications (SW Headers, Ron Davis Radiator)

FASTAZU

Nice find. All I can add is Clean Clean Clean. Put it on stands remove all the inner wheel panels and spare tire carrier, cover the motor with a tarp and pressure wash with low presser.




Motor as you can see covered with a water proof tarp

Crabs

DO NOT
I Repeat
DO NOT
PRESSURE WASH THE LT5 ENGINE

Underneath the car, yes, suspension bits, yes, but if you pressure wash the engine, you might as well pressure wash the interior cabin of the car while you are at it.
It won't run afterward.

'Crabs

FASTAZU

And stated so in my post!!

Demps

This looks like fun!
Ted

Mikey Morris

Good luck

Dynomite

Crabs is absolutely correct as well as FASTAZU.

However.......after you have removed the Plenum leaving the Injectors in place before you replace them (Remove the Fuel Rail from the Injectors) and after you have removed Coils, Starter, and Vacuum System etc., you can pressure wash the valley especially before you remove the Injectors as this gets all the grime from around the Injectors before you remove them. Also, this can help get the Valley Drain cleared especially if you use a bit of air pressure from in front of Bell housing from underneath blowing upward the valley drain.

You can set aside the AC compressor without disconnecting. You can remove the Alternator.

I would not pressure wash the interior unless you have had a serious coolant leak inside on the carpet on the passenger side

Like Ted (Demps) suggests.......this could be fun

-=Jeff=-

Was this one listed on Craigslist Houston along with a 65 Impala SS?

blownrunner

If this car gets restored instead of parted out or flipped determines if the value of these cars is increasing...

scarabexc

Not getting parted out and the value of all C4s is rising fast, some are surpassing the C5s already.

FASTAZU

Saw the pics of the clean up on FB looking good.