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As you can clearly see now, it's a can of worms you've opened.
A good can of worms, but a can none the less.
We all love our cars, some of us more passionate than others.
It's a good thing.
My advice to you is to get in one and drive it like you stole it.
If you like it, buy it.
Take it from me, you'll like it.
The red ones are the fastest. Duh.
Welcome to the madness.
As you can clearly see now, it's a can of worms you've opened.
A good can of worms, but a can none the less.
We all love our cars, some of us more passionate than others.
It's a good thing.
My advice to you is to get in one and drive it like you stole it.
If you like it, buy it.
Take it from me, you'll like it.
The red ones are the fastest. Duh.
Welcome to the madness.
'Crabs
'90 ZR1 #792
I've had a few zr-1s, a 90, 93, 2 95s the 93 - 95 were all built in the last run and had a few nice improvements as did the c4
a bit more rare, but from my experience all of the zr-1s are worth gold in terms of performance and dare I say it value
I'm looking at a 91 for 16k that makes me wonder why the hell I don't use it as a daily
prices are at an all time low, the 93-95 especially the nice rubys fetch a bit more than the early cars, and have a few things like asr blah blah
the early cars have the stronger tranny, lighter, and despite the HP disparity, perform very similar
don't worry so much about the price, find a car in the right condition that has been taken care of by an enthusiast, (the brothers are many)
and you will no doubt plaster the cheapest and longest lasting grin you will find.
with the HP on the newer vettes going up and the prices skyrocketing, you can find a nice zr-1 that is ready to go at rock bottom prices as folks are eager to upgrade
the other thing worth mentioning is that the later model seats for me are a bit more comfortable for those above the weight limit of the narrow early seats that tend to be a bit snug for me
You are welcome to show hp differences from a dyno. And not sure why you are bringing up other differences in the car, the original poster was interested in the higher hp. The comments were directed at that. There are plenty of differences in the cars over the years, the engine and tranny didn't get much change, and none that impacted hp. Race two bone stock ZR-1s, even compare 90' to 95' models. You will find the results all over the map with no discernable advantage for any year.
Its hard to read someone's mind, but it seems to me that the OP was using the "higher hp" reference to refer to the cars that were rated higher from the factory. Wither or not you believe they have more HP is often dependent on which car you own. Apparently GM believed it.
The cars about as ridged as a wet piece of toast with the top off although I did recently install a set of Bill Bs beam plates and haven’t had the top off yet to see how much if any it has helped. Here’s a little motivation for the OP,the fastest ones are the bleeders!
Car is a bit more jittery if you ask me...Also makes some noise when you hit some bumps..I live in NY, nuff said..All though I try my best to avoid them...
I like the feeling of having the roof off...Not to happy with some of the creeks and sounds you get when it is off.....GM could have designed this better considering this was the highest priced car from GM in the 90's
All of the ZR-1s are similar and all are great cars. I personally always gravitated toward the 93-95 years for rarity and the fact that towards the end of the production run the cars had gotten a number of engineering tweaks to improve them. As others have noted, values can vary considerably based on condition, mileage, modifications and your budget and unique needs--i.e, how much you really want a particular car. One guide to prices is the Sports Car Market Magazine Pocket Price Guide. On the plus side, SCM watches all the auctions and records results; it has a very extensive database. On the negative side, it uses a median value which is the middle between the highest and lowest prices, which I do not think is a very good measure (an average would seem better to me, since one price that is really way out there would distort the results; note the value for 1993 Anniversary models listed). Nevertheless, below are SCM's median price values for ZR-1s from the 2018 Price Guide. Your mileage may vary; for the record I sold my '93 and '95 for more than the listed prices. I still think the buyers got very good deals on them. --Bob
That's looks real nice....I heard some Z owners do this....I'm guessing since technology and design has come along way since the 90's,the new Z does not have this problem....Or, for that matter any of the modern vettes have the creeks and noises our Z's have....
One of the reasons I chose the ZR-1 over the C-5Z was the ability to have a Targa top....Just think GM could have designed this better...Spoke to a few Z owners and the car is more jittery with the top off...
Where do you buy Bills beam plates? How do they attach?
The cars about as ridged as a wet piece of toast with the top off although I did recently install a set of Bill Bs beam plates and haven’t had the top off yet to see how much if any it has helped. Here’s a little motivation for the OP,the fastest ones are the bleeders!
The C-beams, as good as they are, I have a set on mine, were never designed to solve the chassis flex issue. They are designed to stiffen the drive train.
H
beam plates are great for drive line stiffening, but body flex with the top out..... I haven't noticed a difference between my current 90 Z (which has the Beam Plates) and my 92 Z nor any of the other base C4's Ive owned..
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
C4 was never designed to have a fully removable targa top. It was a last minute design change from a t-top design to the the targa to compete with European brands. The top of the C4 is a structural member of the car, this is why it bolts into the car at all 4 corners instead of using latches like t-tops or later C5 coupes. Therefore, if you take it out, you're going to get body flex, which isn't going to be solved completely by any add-on pieces. I went through this years ago with my 92 base car and tried all of the RD Racing products, with the only thing that really worked being the targa truss pictured above. Unfortunately, it looks like these are no longer made, so unless you find one used, you're out of luck.
Personally, after having several C4s, C5s and C6s, I've decided that none of the coupe cars were ever really designed to have the roof off. There is a lot of wind buffeting at speed, even when using the hatch vent on the C4. Airflow is MUCH better with roof on and windows down on all three gens. For this reason, I personally could care less about ever taking the top of my ZR-1.
I wouldn't worry about the hp differences though, by many accounts the differences are only on paper. The last LT-5 engine was built in 1993. The engine is exactly the same through all year models. I believe the 90' models had a cam issue or something along those lines.
What were the cam issues in 1990? There were no cam issues and if you knew what you were talking about you wouldn’t have made the statement. The problem was found to be human error,not cam related.
What were the cam issues in 1990? There were no cam issues and if you knew what you were talking about you wouldn’t have made the statement. The problem was found to be human error,not cam related.
Not sure why so inflamatory. No I don't recall the specifics. I remember it had to do with early ZR-1s, especially the 90' model, that's about it. Haven't thought about it much in twenty years.
Not sure why so inflamatory. No I don't recall the specifics. I remember it had to do with early ZR-1s, especially the 90' model, that's about it. Haven't thought about it much in twenty years.
08-01-2018, 12:09 AM
beam plates are great for drive line stiffening, but body flex with the top out..... I haven't noticed a difference between my current 90 Z (which has the Beam Plates) and my 92 Z nor any of the other base C4's Ive owned..
