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recently I got a d1sc put on my car and the next thing I got to do is to upgrade to a better radiator...I need help trying to find the best deal out there .. ..
You can try Rick Anthony Moto. he is a vendor on here and has good price points on DeWitts Alum. Rad.
BeCool also makes one and for the rich people there is the Ron Davis.
Jon
recently I got a d1sc put on my car and the next thing I got to do is to upgrade to a better radiator...I need help trying to find the best deal out there .. ..
If you want a good price, best fit, and best appearence then this is your guy...
Will this radiator support 700+ RWHP? I live in the south where it is hot and humid. I will be running a 383 stroker with F1R and A4 Transmission. I want to be able to drive my car in the summer with air conditioning on long trips with the best heat protection possible, I dont know if my stock radiator will work out at this point or not.... just trying to do some preventative mods..Thanks for any suggestions.
Will this radiator support 700+ RWHP? I live in the south where it is hot and humid. I will be running a 383 stroker with F1R and A4 Transmission. I want to be able to drive my car in the summer with air conditioning on long trips with the best heat protection possible, I dont know if my stock radiator will work out at this point or not.... just trying to do some preventative mods..Thanks for any suggestions.
I try to avoid HP ratings on radiators, although most of the other guys are doing that. Horsepower and heat generation are not linear, in other words, a 700hp engine doesn't have twice the heat as a 350hp. Sure it has more heat, but not twice as much. You also do not put out a continous 700 hp, this is only peaks.
I think it will be enough because the radiator has twice the cooling capacity as the original. Two rows instead of one. In the end there really isn't much of a choice because you can't get a bigger radiator in there without a ton of mods and cutting.
I try to avoid HP ratings on radiators, although most of the other guys are doing that. Horsepower and heat generation are not linear, in other words, a 700hp engine doesn't have twice the heat as a 350hp. Sure it has more heat, but not twice as much. You also do not put out a continous 700 hp, this is only peaks.
I think it will be enough because the radiator has twice the cooling capacity as the original. Two rows instead of one. In the end there really isn't much of a choice because you can't get a bigger radiator in there without a ton of mods and cutting.
For what it's worth, I have a Dewitts A4 radiator in my car (mine's an M6 but you were out of the M6 model at the time that I ordered and you mentioned there would be no cooling difference between the two). I have a setup similar to what is described above (383 stroker with forced induction, and 600+hp at the wheels).
Summer is rolling around and I can tell you that your car will not overheat with the Dewitt's radiator. With the AC on in stop and go I am usually under 220 degrees coolant temp. Obviously though, with the motor that hot, your intercooler is going to warm up as well and you're not in an environment where you should be racing the car around (not that you should really be racing with the AC on anyway...)
I am going to fab up a fan shroud that is welded on to the radiator so it has a perfect seal, sort of like what you see here:
I already have 2 large SPAL fans (had to seriously trim up the stock fan shroud to make them fit) so other than the fabbing of the shroud and welding it should be straightforward. I am hoping this increases the efficiency of the fans because I'd like to be able to cruise around with the AC on and see 200 degrees max.
I have a Ron Davis with stock waterpump and 160 thermo; fans are set around 185. I am also watercooling my turbos and I never see temps over 195.... I live in AZ where we have 100 days over 100 degrees.
I have a Ron Davis with stock waterpump and 160 thermo; fans are set around 185. I am also watercooling my turbos and I never see temps over 195.... I live in AZ where we have 100 days over 100 degrees.
Does your Ron Davis also have the oil cooler in it? Are you using it, and if so, how has that helped?
My Dewitts has served me well over the years but I think as I start pushing more and more power through this car I might need something more. I am not sure if the Ron Davis somehow cools your coolant any better than the Dewitts though.
Last edited by Tony @ MPH; May 31, 2005 at 11:45 AM.
Does your Ron Davis also have the oil cooler in it? Are you using it, and if so, how has that helped?
My Dewitts has served me well over the years but I think as I start pushing more and more power through this car I might need something more. I am not sure if the Ron Davis somehow cools your coolant any better than the Dewitts though.
It does have the oil cooler in it.. but I am not using it at this time. I was told that I will loose oil pressure if I run a cooler... I never owned a Dewitts radiator, but I like the Ron Davis... (I had one in my other vette too). Its a little pricey... but to get good temps when water cooling turbos is worth it..
It does have the oil cooler in it.. but I am not using it at this time. I was told that I will loose oil pressure if I run a cooler... I never owned a Dewitts radiator, but I like the Ron Davis... (I had one in my other vette too). Its a little pricey... but to get good temps when water cooling turbos is worth it..
You can get a pressure drop if there's a lot of resistance in the cooler. I am not sure if the extra plumbing alone would cause a pressure drop or not. I know there's some resistance inherent in every inch of any size of plumbing you run but I think once you get the larger size plumbing the drop is negligible.
LPE's oil cooler uses -10 fittings which they say causes zero pressure drop. It looks like the Ron Davis has -12 fittings, which should avoid a pressure drop as well, as long as the tubing of the cooler is also as large.
I will keep that in mind.. however .. even with the oil going to my turbos.. I really have to beat on the car to get my oil over 212 (even in this heat). Now ... I also do not auto cross the car, mostly 1/4 mile and freeway runs.
Wanna trade cars? Mine gets hot real easy. I was seeing 250F oil temps a couple of weeks ago with just minor beating of the car, with the AC on. At 212 I really wouldn't worry about cooling the oil!
Wanna trade cars? Mine gets hot real easy. I was seeing 250F oil temps a couple of weeks ago with just minor beating of the car, with the AC on. At 212 I really wouldn't worry about cooling the oil!
My oil temps used to reach 240's before I water cooled the turbos.. Since the housings are nice and cool... I dont worry about needing a turbo timer or boiling my oil...
Will this radiator improve cooling over stock while driving at speed over 30MPH when the fan is no longer operational? When at a stop and go traffic, how will it improve cooling if the fan is not sufficient to keep the radiator cool due to larger capacity?
I try to avoid HP ratings on radiators, although most of the other guys are doing that. Horsepower and heat generation are not linear, in other words, a 700hp engine doesn't have twice the heat as a 350hp. Sure it has more heat, but not twice as much. You also do not put out a continous 700 hp, this is only peaks.
I think it will be enough because the radiator has twice the cooling capacity as the original. Two rows instead of one. In the end there really isn't much of a choice because you can't get a bigger radiator in there without a ton of mods and cutting.
Thanks, I will be contacting you soon.. My car is at MTI right now and will talk to them about installing it...Again, Thanks for the info.