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Has anybody relocated their battery (to the trunk, or otherwise?) I moved mine yesterday and the results are unimpressive: my starter is not happy and acts like it doesn't have enough juice, and I seem to be losing more fuel pressure than usual while running the car hard, even though my fuel pump is wired from my alternator and should be unaffected.
I ran 1/0 gauge from the alternator to a twin 4 gauge distribution block near the stock battery location. Ran one 4 gauge lead to the fuse block, and one 4 gauge lead back to the battery. The battery is grounded to the frame in the back using 1 ft of 1/0 gauge.
A couple of people have told me that they've heard it's essential to ground the battery in the stock grounding location. Does anyone know from experience if this is true or not? All of my sensors are running just fine and the PCM is happy. If this gets any more complicated than running an additional 4 gauge ground from the battery in the trunk to the stock grounding location, I'm just moving the battery back to the stock location.
I posted this in the FI section because:
* I am relocating the battery to accomodate an alky tank in its place
* I think some of the FI kits out there require a relocate so there's bound to be some first hand experience/knowledge on the topic
I think you will see positive results when you re-route the grounding wire. hydroformed steel just doesn't flow electrons as well as 1/0 copper. Good luck.
I used to own a 1964 Ford Thunderbolt A/FX car and it had 2 batterys mounted in the trunk.
I used welding cable to the starter and ground to the engine block.
Tony....have you upgraded the grounds in the front of the car? Oga from the block to the frame? I would use 0ga from the battery to the front of the car. And a piece of 4 ga from the starter to your distribution block.
I have mine relocated to the trunk. It is part of the RMCR SC setup. They used high strand count welding cable and the battery is grounded directly to the frame. You must ave a good ground or your electrical system and electronics will not be happy.
I relocated mine with the LPE kit. It has the larger wire and it is grounded in the stock location. I have no starting problems. The kit is expensive but worth the money. They offer a kit with smaller wire and it is grounged at the back of the car. The wire in the kit is welders cable. I think if you increase the size of your wire it will fix your problem.
I doubt it's a wire size problem. Ground quality: maybe... but likely not wire size. The 1/0 ground wire I have run to the frame has about 6-8x the current capacity the factory wiring did and is the same size that LPE uses in theirs.
I'd think the 4 gauge + lead should be able to feed the starter no problem...
Last edited by Tony @ MPH; Jun 5, 2005 at 11:07 PM.
Moved the battery to the center trunk in a 00 Coupe. Used 0/1 welding cable. Welded ground stud to rear frame. Had to run 8 ga. alternator wire to NHRA main shutoff switch at batt. to cure alternater back feed, otherwise no problem. Positive cable to starter through shutoff. Ground to frame. Left all orig. batt. cables in place.
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Tony,
I have relocated many batteries without a seperate ground. Naver had any issues at all. Are you sure your ground is tight? Not doughting you but like I said, we have never had any issues at all.
I think the PTK kit relocates the battery. Hopefully Kevin ( ShinobisZ) will chime in.
The PTK TT maintains the battery in the stock location.
However, there is a better option than relocating the Battery for an Alky reservoir.
What you can't really see in my engine compartment pictures is the new Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. The PTK TT requires that both the Rad and Wiper/Washer Res's be removed and relocated.
The WiperWasher tank that PTK uses is a 4" X18" tube that goes down the side of the driver inner fender well, between the Brake Fluid Master Cylinder and fender well. How much room is there?? Well the HP TT has utilized this area for whole turbo placement.
I am sure that PTK would sell you just the res. or you could buy another surge tank and install it. The PTK washer res is all metal constructed and you won't have to move anything to put it in. It holds at least 1 gallon too. I would consider this option before relocating the battery. One of the things I like about the PTK TT is that it doesn't require relocating the battery.
With the PTK, and TTI system you have plenty of room in the fender well area for any type of surge tank.
Tony....have you upgraded the grounds in the front of the car? Oga from the block to the frame? I would use 0ga from the battery to the front of the car. And a piece of 4 ga from the starter to your distribution block.
I have 1/0 running from the block to the frame up front, and 1/0 running from the battery to the frame in the back. I only have a 4 ga lead going to the front of the car from the battery though.
For what it's worth, this turned out to be a grounding problem. I ran a 4 gauge ground from the battery in the back to the front of the car where everything else is grounded, and the car cranks up just fine.
I double checked my 1/0 ground in the rear and it looks OK, so I'm not sure why my starter wasn't happy. For now I'll just leave the two grounds in tact as my experience tells me you can never have too much ground!
Now, on to that front mount alky tank... I bet it would look real sweet coated in Jet Hot!
I have mine relocated to the trunk. It is part of the RMCR SC setup. They used high strand count welding cable and the battery is grounded directly to the frame. You must ave a good ground or your electrical system and electronics will not be happy.
I have the same kit, no issues in over 5,000 miles. Good connections and a good ground.