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It was a 224/226 115 cam installed dot-to-dot. I'm pulling a head off tuesday night to inspect.
Sounds like you dropped a valve, being as the head was missing. Maybe the keepers were not perfectly seated. But then there is the mystery of the cracked block. Maybe the head of the valve cocked sideways and hit the piston and the head and collasped the conn rod.
I feel for you, I hope you get your car back up and running soon.
Sounds like you dropped a valve, being as the head was missing. Maybe the keepers were not perfectly seated. But then there is the mystery of the cracked block. Maybe the head of the valve cocked sideways and hit the piston and the head and collasped the conn rod.
I feel for you, I hope you get your car back up and running soon.
Well I made a deal with a forum member (MissZ06) for a built A&A shortblock with a 9:1 CR. It's still at Andy's and will be shipped out to me soon. I hope that engine lasts more than 30 minutes
Well I made a deal with a forum member (MissZ06) for a built A&A shortblock with a 9:1 CR. It's still at Andy's and will be shipped out to me soon. I hope that engine lasts more than 30 minutes
Well I made a deal with a forum member (MissZ06) for a built A&A shortblock with a 9:1 CR. It's still at Andy's and will be shipped out to me soon. I hope that engine lasts more than 30 minutes
Don't worry, the forged ones last at least twice that.
Were you using LS6 valves or aftermarket. The LS6 valves will break the head off if they kiss a piston wheras the aftermarket ones will only bend and dent the top of your piston.
It sounds like the valve touched the piston, broke the head off and smashed a hole in the piston. The pieces of metal went down into the crankcase and hit the crank sending them into the block... now why do I feel like I am on an episode of CSI ???
I took the head off tonight and took some pics. I had stock LS6 valves in the heads. It looks like one valve made contact and it went downhill from there. The spring isn't broken, but I'll be sending it off to get tested.
The cam was much smaller (G5X3 to 224/226) so it's strange this happened after the install (springs stayed the same).
Here are the pics (the coolant got in the cylinders while taking the head off).
Does it look like that chamber can be reworked? It really doesn't look THAT bad in person.
Ouch. looks like that was the only valve the hit anything though. Weird it ran for 20min at idle fine, then took a dump when you drove it. That head looks chewed up. Might be repairable..might not.
Good deal on getting that shortblock from MissZ06!!! As far as the head goes I'm sure it can be repaired, but you'll have to check to see how economical it will be to do so. You might want to look for a head upgrade and sell your heads for a few $$$ (someone will buy them). Some larger chambers would drop your CR some which would be a good thing. It really stinks you have to dump all this money into it now, but you're better off doing it right the first time while you have it all apart (okay the second time (sorry Justin)).
Wish I lived closer so I could give you a hand. Keep us posted on your progress.
I think I'm going to stay with stock Z06 heads. The CR is 9:1 as is and I think that's right where I want to be...if not a little higher. I'm going to see about getting some thin head gaskets to bring it up a little. A local shop is going to put it in for me at a nice price. I just don't have the time to mess with it right now.
Just wanted to chime in with my condolences... such a sad story. I would have to agree 100% there is no way this is related to the blower or alky (unless your impeller is missing ...) Must be related to the cam swap, obviously a valvetrain failure which trashed the rotating assembly (or vise versa). I've been there as well, and my .02 is just re-iterating what has already been said, please go with some forged internals. If need be, ebay the blower to finance it. NOW is the time to do the forged motor. The blower can always be added back later, remember it's a "bolt-on"
Ouch, that sucks. I hate to see that. I wonder if the change in the cam just caused a major problem with the valvetrain geometry. Did you happen to check the preload based on the new cam base circle (or did you change pushrods length to accommodate the new cam). Make sure you degree that cam on the next motor (probably don't have to tell you that).
I would assume that stock pushrod length would have been fine for that cam, but not sure about what the GX3 required…
It sucks when stuff like this happens, but you will probably end up with a better setup in the long run.
Let me know if you need any help with the tune… after you get the motor in.
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