OK first off I know nothing about nitrous. What is safest way to go wet / dry. I have blackwing and headers other than that will stay stock.
So I'm guessing no more than a 100 shot.

Point me in learning direction or lay hands on to educate me.

TXS.

DJ

 

safer would be dry as you eliminate the chance of puddling. Wet kits are easier to dial in though as you are not relying on the injectors to add fuel.

 

I have 100 dry shot on my c5 and love it.

 

100 wet shot here, intake and exhaust and love it. Thinking of going to 150, just hope the clutch will hold it !

 

100 shot nx wet kit .installed it myself and happy w/the performance boost, 11.3 -1/4 mile. i think i will try the 150 shot and then maybe a 2 stage after that and then ??? i think i'm addicted to nitrous.

 

People run more than 100 shot but from what I have found 100 seems to be a fairly safe limit for a stock bottom end. For safety you need a fuel pressure safety switch (fpss), window switch, 100 micron nitrous filter, almost everyone I have talked to says to run a electric throttle position switch (TPS) in stead of a WOT switch on drive by wire cars.

I plan to use a dyno jet wideband with the ability to shut the system down if the system gets leaner than you want it. They are about $500 but what would a motor cost you? Get the best quality kit that you can. Don't go cheap if you want it safe. From my research I chose Nitrous Express wet kit.

There are other things to get like a bottle heater, remote opener if you want one, purge kit etc. Don't be fooled by the $500 or so kit prices you see. A good set up with the safety stuff can cost $2,500 or more. Plus install & tuning. Dry kits are cheaper but after weighing the pros & cons of each I chose a wet kit.

 

TNT 100 Wet

 

After doing a LOT of research, I recently (read yesterday ) finished the installation of an NX wet system on my car.

The 75 shot is very impressive!

I agree with everything that terry s said except the part about the TPS vs. WOT switch issue. There's absolutely nothing wrong with using a WOT switch on our cars. The WOT switch is a simple, mechanically-actuated microswitch, it will work with any type throttle system, and it's foolproof. The fact is, I spent extra money for a TPS switch and never did get the darn thing to work properly. If you do a search here and elsewhere you'll discover I'm not the only one that found the TPS switch to be finicky. In this instance, I think the KISS system rules the day (keep it simple, stupid).

 

Most modern Nitrous setups (dry or wet) are pretty safe if used properly following the manufacturers guidelines. Not much to fear. Dry is by far easier, with less plumbing and wiring if you are going to stay at/below a 100 shot. Above a 100 shot start thinking about a HV fuel pump IMHO.
Doing a 100 to 150 shot, I personally would go wet. Anything above 150, start thinking Direct Port and again a new fuel pump.
Staying with a brand name system like NX, NOS, TNT, Zex is great start. They have systems already tuned for our cars so the setup is a breeze.
Don't be afraid to ask questions and get feedback. It seems most members "here" do not like nitrous, stating the dangers, but ANY power adder (Nitrous/turbo/Supercharger) if not used correctly have dangers. Remember after ANY install of a power adder to get a Wide-band dyno to check your A/F ratio. Always better to be safe then sorry. Also when going to nitrous on our cars, a colder sparkplug will be needed.
Good luck!

 

 

Xtrooper: I had seen your posts about the trouble you had with the TPS. I am no expert but I have talked to several people who I believe to be very knowledgeable about our cars. I am told that the PCM can reduce or close the throttle with your foot to the floor. If this happens the WOT switch thinks the throttle is wide open & keeps spraying.

It's not to say you can't get by with a WOT but I have come to believe it is risky. Did you talk to the TPS manufacturer or return it for another one. Maybe you had a bad one. I know the NX TPS needs to be adjusted. Assuming you wired it & adjusted it correctly my guess is you may have had a bad unit. What kind of trouble did you have?

Another safety issue. I had second thoughts and wanted to put a 2nd N02 noid in as a back up incase 1 were to stick open. (the wideband set up can't help in this situation) Since the NX noids are not available as side in and side out configuration the install would be a pain. Dave convinced me that NX noids should not fail. He said this practice came from other manufacturers whose noids were not as reliable. He was clear that any noid can stick open but the only NX noids he has seen fail were due to dirt etc. (thus the recomendation for a 100 micron filter) damage or abuse.

I wish I could figure out the KISS system. I think I may need an electrical engineering degree to be able to hook all this stuff up.

If you have any interest I found a post about how to hook guage lights to the car's dimmer switch. Apparently if you hook up extra lites directly it won't work.

 

So are there any recommondations for a dry kit that is easy to install / safe (as nitrous can be). I am in the market for a 100 shot.

Thanks

FX

 

I just finished installing my 100 dry shot. I used the NOS 5177 kit. Its a very simple task. Just make sure you use a window switch and a Fpss.

 

Thanks - looking into it now

 

I don't know if it's true that the PCM could or would close or partially close the TB with your foot to the floor, but if it did and you had your rpm window start point set properly high enough, the engine would fall below your rpm window and shut off the system anyway.

Regarding my TPS switch, the trouble was that it just would not work even though I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that it was properly wired and after I had bypassed or eliminated all other possible culprits. I did speak with NX and, as of today, the non-working unit is en route back to for replacement.

I may or may not use it when I get the new one back. I may just put it up for sale.

 

That's what I did. I have "heard" this possible problem of the ECU closing the TB, but this is never been confirmed by a GM Tech.

 

The closing of the throtle plate while your foot is to the floor or any other position could be in part due to traction control or one of the other electronic overrides that can be initiated by the pcm.I am still learning about nitrous myself(doing an install today)and I have a WOT switch as well as a Timing Tuner that I need to figure out.

 

What I believe to be a very knowledgeable tuner said that TC pulls timing and AH pulls throttle and applies the brakes as needed.

I have had AH kick in and it sure felt like it backed the throttle off to me.

 

No, the car could be at part throttle due and still inside your rpm window.
Throttle position has nothing to do with rpm.

In a drive by wire system the computer does not have to give you full throttle just because your foot is on the floor, and in many cases it will not. Some of the reasons (TC, AH, torque management, other) are listed in other posts above.

 

NOS 5177 100 dry shot here too......simple, safe, and fun. I'm gonna up the jets to 125 soon though.......

You can install it yourself and even after buying a window switch (it comes with WOT and FPSS) it is less than $800. Add in a purge kit and a bottle heater if your climate requires (mine doesn't) and you've got 100+ hp on demand for less than $1000. Hard to beat......

I've got a Vararam, LT headers, and 4.10's.......so the car goes plenty well enough for normal driving.......then add in the juice and I can give 99% of guys I'll run across on the street as much or more than they can handle.