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Procharger Install Difficulty

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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 10:36 PM
  #1  
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Default Procharger Install Difficulty

Can the average backyard mechanic install a Procharger on a C5?
Strictly bolt on?
Is a lift necessary or will ramps fill the bill?
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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Pinning the crank will likely be worst part. It depends on your skills and then the tuning part (never underestimate tuning, your engine will thank you).

Mike
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Skunkworks
Pinning the crank will likely be worst part. It depends on your skills and then the tuning part (never underestimate tuning, your engine will thank you).

Mike
What is involved in pinning the crank?

Isn't the tuning handled by flashing with a handheld programmer?
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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Start by reading https://www.aandacorvette.com/supercharger_inst.asp web site. Tuning from handheld programmers is by most considered a means by which to drive to a qualified tuner. It is generic and not all engines respond the same, the $300-500 you will spend for good tune may save you thousands in long run.

Mike
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 06:51 AM
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Sounds like a couple PIA items there and if it nedds to be dyno tuned, might just as well see the Vette Drs in the first place.
Thanks
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:48 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Beemster
Sounds like a couple PIA items there and if it nedds to be dyno tuned, might just as well see the Vette Drs in the first place.
Thanks
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:23 AM
  #7  
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I am an average , maybe sub average back yard mechanic...This spring, i changed my old dual intercooler system the the A&A single system. 30 hours on my ^@ back....I am glad i did it, but i had the old system to follow as a pattern....I would STRONGLY suggest you have it installed by a pro, and most important, TUNED by a pro....You must pin the crank. This is not a job for an average weekend wrencher in my opinion
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Make sure you read my thread about cam bolts backing out...make sure you go in there and retighten them and relocktite them so you don't have the same problem I and many others have had.

I would say if you consider yourself an average mechanic then you need to let someone else do it. I consider myself pretty good and it was somewhat of a challenge to me. If you decide to do it yourself, Private message me and I will give you my number. I will walk you through any tough spots you run into. That goes for anyone else as well. If you need some help or have some questions just let me know.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 02:58 PM
  #9  
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Thanks all. Guess the old addage "do what you know" always applies.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by exploder
Make sure you read my thread about cam bolts backing out...make sure you go in there and retighten them and relocktite them so you don't have the same problem I and many others have had.
What is involved in loctite-ing the cam bolts? Do you have to pull the whole cam out or do you just have to remove the front cover (and entire front end to get to it?) ?

Thanks
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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there are 3 bolts holding the cam in under the timing cover and crank pulley. you have to remove the bolts put loctite on them and retorque to 14ft/lb.
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by exploder
there are 3 bolts holding the cam in under the timing cover and crank pulley. you have to remove the bolts put loctite on them and retorque to 14ft/lb.
Thanks. What all do you have to remove to get to this? Crank pulley? front main seal? Radiator? Steering rack?

Just looking for how long the job will take. I'm a newbie to cam work.

Thanks
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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airbridge, and intake box, a/c condensor needs to be unbolted and tied up out of the way, radiator drained and removed along with the fan assembly, radiator and condensor subframe removed, powersteering rack removed, crank pulley removed, front main seal, timing cover, timing chain, and then the cam bolts.
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