smaller head bolts
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver WA
That's not good. You will have to take the head off. You are talking about the bolts that holds the head down to the block right? You may want to talk to some engine builders first before you try to repair it. There is several kinds of thread inserts, and since there is a lot of torque on those bolts, you want to insert that works the best. Good luck, and sorry to hear about that.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 3
From: Marietta GA
Its not that big of a deal to remove the M8 ones. If you can see the bolt, you can remove it without taking the head out. All you have to do is drill a hole dead center on the broken stud, then put in an extractor bit and thread it out. But key is drilling it dead center.
Dixit
Dixit
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver WA
Originally Posted by Dixit
Its not that big of a deal to remove the M8 ones. If you can see the bolt, you can remove it without taking the head out. All you have to do is drill a hole dead center on the broken stud, then put in an extractor bit and thread it out. But key is drilling it dead center.
Dixit
Dixit
He said he STRIPPED IT OUT, not broke it off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,786
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette Colorado
Important, but not critical. They are only torque to 22# and that is mainly to keep blow by and vapors in the lifter area. I would try the vise-grip loosen method if you can get a set on the bolt head. If you can not, use a dremal to grind two parallel flat spots and use a smaller wrench. If you use the dremal, tape up the intake ports of the heads!!!!!
Keith
Keith
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Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 3
From: Marietta GA
Originally Posted by RED99
He said he STRIPPED IT OUT, not broke it off.
Sorry. It was 3am when I posted that one.Hahah, stripped out, well head definetely going to have to come off and you going to have to retap that to a slightly larger thread size.
Yea those are only 22ft lbs, did you torque it more than that or just got unlucky and it stripped?
Dixit
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio TX
They are not as important as the m15's, if I were you I would try to get an ARP bolt/stud (they have much deeper threads) and see if I could get that to pull 22fp and be done with it.
if this were the m15's then you would have to helicoil the block which is a PITA.
ARP's are a B!^@# to put in but they do have a much better grip in the alum. block.
More Than Zero
if this were the m15's then you would have to helicoil the block which is a PITA.
ARP's are a B!^@# to put in but they do have a much better grip in the alum. block.
More Than Zero
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,931
Likes: 2
From: Tx
Originally Posted by denscor
I know its in the block,heads have been off before I think they had something to do with it .
Did you clean up the threads with a tap before you put in the stud? (You can make a cleaning tap out of the old bolt)
Oh, that sucks. That is exactly why I would never use regular throw away bolts on the heads.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
From: Point Pleasant wv
cleaned and everything! It sucks ! I going to get a helicore kit and fix it. Someone local told me it was not important but gm would not have put them there if it wasn't.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 527
From: Clouds Over California
Originally Posted by RED99
He said he STRIPPED IT OUT, not broke it off.You still have to drill it out to put a helicoil in it smart guy!
It will be easy to repair with the head on the vehicle, I would not suggest trying to TAP it because it is aluminum...althouh I have tapped the head before and used a stud in place on the exhaust manifold bolts...but that is only because I would have to pull the head off to drill it properly and insert a helicoil to repair it right...there is not enough room to do that with the head on the motor in the engine bay.
The little bolts are much easier. The thing to be most careful about...is not drilling it to far out or if using a stud make sure you just snug it up...a little past hand tight...nothing more or you will break the head.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 5
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by denscor
just got unlucky I troqued all of them at 22 ! I'm using ARP head studs. 
as an alternate you could try to adhear the stud in place with the adheasive that GM recomends for repairing the block bolt holes (will only work with the studs and only if you plan an leaving the studs in the block)
anyway good luck.
More Than Zero
Last edited by M_T_0; Sep 26, 2005 at 02:56 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 527
From: Clouds Over California
Originally Posted by denscor
just got unlucky I troqued all of them at 22 ! I'm using ARP head studs.
I just read you were using Head Studs...please tell me that you didn't TQ the head studs in......hand tight or very little more is all that is needed when placing the studs in the heads.
I tq'd the big nuts down to 85-90lbs.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,976
Likes: 527
From: Clouds Over California
Originally Posted by denscor
no head studs were put in hand tight. I think thats has been my trouble all along.Bolt was striped
Cool...drill it..helicoil it....put stud back in...call it a day. Might as well re-tq them all while you are in there.