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my mas/air sensor split in half

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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 11:50 PM
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Default my mas/air sensor split in half

is it from boost or over tightening and the plastic split even all around in a circle and is in two pieces. its located at a part of the air bridged that is under a lot of strain from the path way to the air bridge.

can i crazy glue it or is that crazy?

if i get a new one....is one better then the other....for a procharged car?

Last edited by master blaster; Sep 25, 2005 at 11:52 PM. Reason: info
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Old Sep 25, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by master blaster
is it from boost or over tightening and the plastic split even all around in a circle and is in two pieces. its located at a part of the air bridged that is under a lot of strain from the path way to the air bridge.

can i crazy glue it or is that crazy?

if i get a new one....is one better then the other....for a procharged car?
Sounds like it was way over tightened. I also have a Procharged car, but
despite having bought a Granatelli High Flow unit I still run the stock untouched unit. Maybe someone else may chime in as to the benefits of other makes. In any event you're going to need a new one especially running boost...you wouldn't want to suck any loose plastic bits into your engine.
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 12:33 AM
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When I got my A&A kit, Andy told me to upgrade the bypass valve to the Vortech Race valve because he saw a few MAF's "blow apart" with the regular ATI bypass valve. I have no idea whether or not your's broke from over-tightening. However, it is possible for a MAF housing to break from the pressure surge that occurs when the throttle blade closes quickly.
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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I had mine blow last week w. my F1R at 12 lbs. boost. Replaced it with another formerly blown unit that was bonded back together w. a heavy ring of resin to strengthen the housing. The electronics on mine was fine, so this too will be repaired. It's holding at this time.

- Sean
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by master blaster
is it from boost or over tightening and the plastic split even all around in a circle and is in two pieces. its located at a part of the air bridged that is under a lot of strain from the path way to the air bridge.

can i crazy glue it or is that crazy?

if i get a new one....is one better then the other....for a procharged car?
Don't glue it. I really doubt it would hold.

There are two types of MAFs. Pre 2001 75mm and 2001+ 85mm.

The 75mm unit is stronger (made of metal) and can read more air (becase it puts out a lower frequency), but it is smaller and is slightly more of a restiction. It does not have the IAT sensor integrated.

If you change MAF style you will have to retune the frequency vs flow tables.

Best bet is to replace it with what you had. Aftermarket MAFs are a total waste of money on LS1s.

Last edited by QuickSilver2002; Sep 26, 2005 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by QuickSilver2002
Don't glue it. I really doubt it would hold.

There are two types of MAFs. Pre 2001 75mm and 2001+ 85mm.

The 75mm unit is stronger (made of metal) and can read more air (becase it puts out a lower frequency), but it is smaller and is slightly more of a restiction. It does not have the IAT sensor integrated.

If you change MAF style you will have to retune the frequency vs flow tables.

Best bet is to replace it with what you had. Aftermarket MAFs are a total waste of money on LS1s.

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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 01:24 PM
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I do not believe the MAF is breaking from boost. I believe it is breaking from being the weakest link in a flexing chain. Silicone hose does not have much flex in it. When the motor twists the intercooler stays in place and the flex is put onto the intake pipes, couplers, and MAF. The weakest link in that chain is going to fail and that is the MAF. To elminate that problem a hump silicone hose should be used. Hump hose is made to flex.

Overtightening a hose clamp will cause the MAF to be crushed on the inlet sides and not likely break in half.
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Old Sep 26, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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No, it's from a boost spike. It usually happens if you jump on it and slam the throttle shut. There is a huge pressure spike between the blower and the TB.
I have a bunch of blown ones. I use "araldite" to glue them. Haven't had a repaired one break yet.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy@AandACorvette
No, it's from a boost spike. It usually happens if you jump on it and slam the throttle shut.
That’s exactly what I had experienced. I was shaking down the 427 F1R you provided me, and had spun the rpm/boost up quickly at highway speeds, then backed off the gas abruptly causing what appeared to be a backlash of boost. The “hardened” replacement MAF you provided me is working fine. Although, I'm looking forward to ditching the MAF entirely, when I receive Charley's speed density tune :-)

Take care, Sean
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by master blaster
is it from boost or over tightening and the plastic split even all around in a circle and is in two pieces. its located at a part of the air bridged that is under a lot of strain from the path way to the air bridge.

can i crazy glue it or is that crazy?

if i get a new one....is one better then the other....for a procharged car?
What BOV and psi are you running?
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by blu00rdstr
What BOV and psi are you running?
vortech and 13-14#
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blu00rdstr
What BOV and psi are you running?
I'm at approx. 1-bar and using Vortech's Mondo BOV (I believe). No problems since replacing the MAF with Andy's araldite-reinforced unit. I'll be returning this MAF to Andy once I get Charlie's speed density tune in the near future :-)
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