POLL: FFHP t-76 initial testing?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 0
From: New England
Originally Posted by Earl H
I think some of you are missing my point. We all know what a T76 can do...thats not what is in question. It is the other supporting hardware. You want to make sure that the entire system design is efficient enough to flow well. A bullet proof motor doesn't equal an efficient one. For example...I'm running decent heads and lowered compression motor...not a high dollar max effort deal. To get my system to the point that it is now, I had to change inlet routing, ic, and a few other things. If an efficient system flows well on a max effort setup, it will definitely flow well on a stock motor.
Along the way I wanted to step up to a 427ci motor...even had one built. I learned that my setup wasn't ideal for that type of motor. Needed larger downpipe, T6 turbine, etc. to run efficienty. Now my setup kicks *** on a stock/close-to-stock cube motor, but isn't ideal for a big inch motor. Would you know that by bolting my setup to a stock motor...probably not. That is because you would never test the flow limits/efficiency of the system.
Btw, any power adder can flow well enough to blow up a high compression stock motor. The tuning, for the most part, will dictate longevity. Everyone is searching for the holy grail...700rwhp, 91 octane, stock motor power adder (non-nos)...oh yeah, it cant cost more than $5K. For the newbies, do a search. For the old-heads you should know better....that system doesn't exist.
Along the way I wanted to step up to a 427ci motor...even had one built. I learned that my setup wasn't ideal for that type of motor. Needed larger downpipe, T6 turbine, etc. to run efficienty. Now my setup kicks *** on a stock/close-to-stock cube motor, but isn't ideal for a big inch motor. Would you know that by bolting my setup to a stock motor...probably not. That is because you would never test the flow limits/efficiency of the system.
Btw, any power adder can flow well enough to blow up a high compression stock motor. The tuning, for the most part, will dictate longevity. Everyone is searching for the holy grail...700rwhp, 91 octane, stock motor power adder (non-nos)...oh yeah, it cant cost more than $5K. For the newbies, do a search. For the old-heads you should know better....that system doesn't exist.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,064
Likes: 95
From: MI
Originally Posted by Umrswimr
I can't afford a built motor too.
Thread Starter
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Crestwood KY
Originally Posted by Earl H
Hate to break it to you, but if you cant afford a built motor then don't do FI (SC or Turbo). There is one thing that is certain. You WILL break it. Its not a matter of IF, its a matter of WHEN. One tank of bad gas, a less than optimum tune (contrary to popular belief...there is no such thing as a "SAFE" tune on a stock motor) and kaboom. The stock components simply weren't made to withstand the pressures (long-term) of FI.
very true statement.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,275
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver WA
Originally Posted by SS930
I really fail to see the point in this. I'm not knocking you, but just about ANY of the turbo kits on the market, or coming to the market, will make enough power to destroy a stock short block. Not to mention a pound or two of boost can make a big difference in power output and there is not guarantee that each kit manufacture is running the exact same psi (or even reporting honest info), so comparing results from one to the other is somewhat futile IMO.
A max effort will at least show you what the system is capable of.
A max effort will at least show you what the system is capable of.
But to make everyone happy, I would suggest a forged motor with stock compression. Then you can do testing at different boost levels, starting at 6 psi, which would be max for a stock motor to live. Then you can crank the boost up for the forged people.
Last edited by RED99; Oct 2, 2005 at 02:32 PM.
